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Full Version: Overfilled Oil is my Front Seal Now trashed?
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budman5201
I dropped my engine over the past week to fix misc oil leaks....oil cooler, front main seal, and the pushrod tubes. All leaked looked fixed but i accidentally overfilled oil by one quart. (drained oil while on ramps, and then refilled with 4 quarts) So i believe that there was one quart still i there when i refilled it 4 quarts on oil change. The dipstick measured 1 quart overfilled when checked.

I only ran it 5 minutes on ramps to get it up to temperature to make sure everything was allright then shut off.

The front main seal (looks like from the leak up front dripping from front of fan shroud) like it is leaking.

It has a brand new front main seal, IS it TRASHED now? Of am i just seeing the left over oil from the initial overfill thats still in the fan shrould?

It now measures EXACTLY right below top notch on dipstick, maybe a hair below....

It leaks still front front of engine, not as fast, but drips a lot.

r_towle
overfilling of oil wont create an oil leak.
What it would do is swamp the valve covers and you would burn alot of oil...

The leak is from a seal, could just be the oil cooler seals...
Look up (after you wipe it all down) above and in front of the oil filter for slight oozing or running...that will make it to the fan and shoot everywhere.

Rich
budman5201
QUOTE(r_towle @ Dec 7 2008, 11:14 PM) *

overfilling of oil wont create an oil leak.
What it would do is swamp the valve covers and you would burn alot of oil...

The leak is from a seal, could just be the oil cooler seals...
Look up (after you wipe it all down) above and in front of the oil filter for slight oozing or running...that will make it to the fan and shoot everywhere.

Rich

those oil cooler seals are brand new...not coming from there. Coming from front fan, dripping litterally from bottom of oil pump it looks like and onto the engine support bar
SLITS
My guess would be that you cut the lips on the seal when installing it or it's leaking from the oil pump gasket itself.

To blow the lips of the seal outward, you would have had to developed a high pressure in the crankcase. Possibilites are plugged PCV valve, plugged head breather ports.

I have routinely run an engine 1/2 - 1 quart over, especially if running an AutoX.

Well, that's my guess.
Cap'n Krusty
Overfilled? I've ALWAYS used 4 quarts with an oil change. Of course, I always change the filter, too, and clean the sump screen. Did you remember to replace the o-ring on the crankshaft, the one under the fan hub? Did you clean the taper on the snout of the crank and on the inside of the hub and make sure the woodruff key was in there? Did you oil both the inside and the OUTSIDE of the seal and make sure it went in evenly?

The Cap'n
Al Meredith
The "O" ring the Cap'n mentioned is often overlooked I have taken apart many engines that are missing that "O" ring
budman5201
QUOTE(Al Meredith @ Dec 8 2008, 04:09 PM) *

The "O" ring the Cap'n mentioned is often overlooked I have taken apart many engines that are missing that "O" ring


OMG WHAT o RING????

Shhhh----t!


OKAY how much oil would leak if i forgot to put that back?? ARRRRGGH and can i somehow pull the front off without pulling the engine again???


well thankyou guys i appreciate it.....!!!
jc914
I was about to post something very similar. I used to use castrol 20/50 and th car would leak drops of oil and this weekend i changed my oil to Royal Purple 20/50 got home from work to find a nice oil leak. I used 4 quarts. I will not be able to get under the car until the weekend.

Could the leak be caused b/c of the new oil i am using???????
tod914
Mine started to leak much more when I put Brad Penn 20/50 in it. Was only slight prior. Have to have the same work done as you guys lol. I'll make note of the o-ring.
Bud, Cpt responded to an earlier post I made regarding the same issue. He made mention you can. I believe you need a
special puller? Maybe he will chime in and go over the details with you. Another member mentioned you can drop the motor
slightly with the axles still attached and do the job that way.
Cap'n Krusty
If you remove the front tin, you can get in there to pull the hub. Because my VW-185 tool grew legs and wandered off in search of the meaning of life, I have to use 2 or 3 old fashioned hardened steel "church keys" placed behind the fan bolt holes in the hub. Tighten each of the 3 bolts a couple of turns each until the hub pops off. Be absolutely sure the plates stay in place or you'll damage the case. I'm thinking about making up a true puller for this job, but my time seems better spent elsewhere.

The Cap'n
budman5201
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Dec 8 2008, 05:55 PM) *

If you remove the front tin, you can get in there to pull the hub. Because my VW-185 tool grew legs and wandered off in search of the meaning of life, I have to use 2 or 3 old fashioned hardened steel "church keys" placed behind the fan bolt holes in the hub. Tighten each of the 3 bolts a couple of turns each until the hub pops off. Be absolutely sure the plates stay in place or you'll damage the case. I'm thinking about making up a true puller for this job, but my time seems better spent elsewhere.

The Cap'n



CULPRIT! BAG your bolts when you take apart the engine. ONE BOLT longer than the rest used for bolting on fan. Wow did i make a HUGE mistake. It DESTROYED!! the case and the seal. Surprised it ran as long as it did. WOW. Yes the O ring was still there, that wasnt the problem.


thanks guys, guess i have to pull that 1.8 liter out of my parts car now.....
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