I've got a set of outer longitudinal replacement panels and clam shells for both the pass and driver side. Should I replace the whole long or should I just section the pieces that are bad? After repairing the long I was going to install the longitude clam shell to help stiffen up the chassis for a sti engine swap. Opinions needed.
Thanks
Alex


Pass side long by front wheel well
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Pass side long looking forward from jack point towards front
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Pass side jack point
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Pass side long looking up into hell hole from jack point.

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I'd do the entire panel. It always seems that a year or two later, you always seem to find rust just past where you patched it!

You should compare your pictures with mine!

Pass long removed. Yes car has bracing, just barely visible in pic.
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Where pass jack point use to be. Double walled structure on inner long will be replaced. Don't want the seatbelt anchor point to fail in a crash.
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Pass long front. Mostly surface rust that will clean up and get rust proofed befor long is welded back on.
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Pass floor pan front. Sound proofing removed. Need to replace metal around floor plug then do the por15 rust proofing. I spent many hours getting sound proofing off. I used the dry ice trick to do the driver side and it only took me about 30 min to do that whole side.
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Pass floor pan rear. A little pitting on rear firewall that will get replaced.
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Pass floor pan and long near seatbelt ancor point. Just clean up more and por15.
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I thought you were going to show something horrific like my car

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Heck yours looks like a brand-new car compared to mine

Have Fun

T.C.

That doesn't look too bad at all and it seems like you're doing it the right way.


Andy

Or mine, I nearly cried when I saw what was left of the right hand side

Thanks for cheering me up with pics of your cars. Shouldn't take me too long to remove the rust, por15 hidden areas and tig weld the new longs and clam shells on.