Anybody have FIRST HAND experience with a fuel additive to reduce HC? I've done the AF adjustment, valves, new pulgs cap(s) and rotors.....

I'm at 124 at idle..... need to be under 120....

I tried one. It didn't work. I forget the brand.

When I had mine registered the only way I could get it to pass was to find a shop that was willing to stick the sniffer up somebody elses exhaust.

hmmmmmm change the idle and take the rpm reading off another car..

are the inspection place state run or independant in cali?

sometime here we..... oops.... well we get cars to pass

Run a tank of Amoco gas and get the engine frying hot before you take it in.... RUN THE HELL OUT OF IT then try it..

"I" have heard that a quart of Naptha in three gallons of gas is good for 20-30 ppm.....but that's what "I" have heard....

If it's the idle test, bump the idle up to the max allowed.

--DD

Did that....max idle is 1100 rpms.....at 1000 rpms, the DME (the brain) detects "issues" and the idle get erratic. It does not like anything above 850 rpms.....

Unless I figure sumthin' out....I will just have to go see if the muff guy will stand behind the cats I bought last year....otherewise....mo' cats....

Coleman lantrern fuel "white gas"

Sounds like you need to get the "chip guy" to program a smog-test version. Couldn't the mixture and ignition be optimized at the exact necessary points to pass the sniffer? If so, it seems like quite a few 3.2 and 3.6 conversion guys might have a use for that chip mod...

This is with the stock chip.....

Jake....you've done this?

white gas????.............maybe

Cocktailing gas for your own purposes is not illegal....just illegal if you sell it....c'mon, spill, Jake....

How would I know it works if I hadn't used it....

Thats actually one of my engine blow tricks... Nothing keeps those engines going longer than some seriously loose main bearings and white gas.

If you mean the catalytic converter, i don't think thats gonna help you. From what I understand the cats are used to reduce the nitrogen oxides. To reduce HC is more or less tuning up the ignition to burn the HC more efficiently.

Off, "How Stuff Works"

Just because a converter is passing gas doesn't mean it is okay. If the catalyst inside is contaminated or worn out, high carbon monoxide (CO) and/or hydrocarbon (HC) readings will be present in the exhaust. If you have access to a high temperature digital pyrometer (or an oven thermometer will do), check the converter's temperature fore and aft. A good converter will usually run 100 degrees F hotter at its outlet than its inlet. Little or no temperature change would indicate low efficiency, or a problem with the converter's air supply. Converters need supplemental oxygen in the exhaust to reburn pollutants, so if the air injection system or aspirator valve isn't doing its job the converter can't do its job either.
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So....it looks as if high HC is also a indicator of a bad cat....

I broke down and bought a used smog tester. They made most of the old machines obsolete when OBD came out....you would think some company would have made some type of interface to make them compliant.

Anyways...200 bucks and a I got a machine that will do all the gases and I can play with it and validate all the intereting information I have here on MY time, not a wrench's that gets 90+ an hour.....

You could always do what GM did in the 70's to reduce emisions.....add a air pump and add clean air to the exaust so the readings look lower than they actually are.

That's a good one! And I thought the air pump was to promote complete combustion in the exhaust port and pipes. I guess I was naive!

BTW, my 914 had an air pump, too.

Mike

Many people her ein AZ have told me that getting a better spark to burn all/most the fuel during combustion goes a long way toward passing on a 914.

Also, does your car have a carbon filter (aka Charcoal cannister)?

My wife has a 1990 Jaguar XJ-6 with 110k mi. that failed. The local Jag dealer said the Charcoal cannister should have been replaced at 65k but according to their records the prev. owner never did it. We replaced the cannister and purge valve (about $300) and the car not only passe dthe HC test but by a HUGE margin.

Mike,

One trick I had to use to get mine to pass hydrocarbons, was to use a hotter plug. I generally run the NGK BP6ES, but for emissions testing I use the BP5ES.

With your new (used) test equip you should see a noticable diff.

Good luck,