As the title says:

Where do you purchase your 400 Grit sandpaper for wet sanding?

Eric Read

Automotive paint supply stores and well stocked hardware stores.

Can you please provide some names of both?

Thanks

Eric

The APSS that I used was loacted in Hemet CA, it was called Smitty's. There are a couple other ones I use to purchase from in the San Gabriel Valley, Bob Dunlaps in Baldwin Park and Auto Paint Supply in Glendora.

The local hardware store in Hemet also carried the sandpaper, you may want to check Lowes, Home Depot, Dunn Edwards House Paints, etc. I hope that helped.

THANKS!!!

Try the harborfreight!!!!!!!!!! I've found to 2000grit there.

400 grit is too abrasive for final color sanding if thats what you are doing you will leave scratches almost impossible to get out for the final finish. 1000 grit is also too abrasive for the final cut but will work for the first cut and 2000 to finish. Find a auto paint store. 1k and 2k come in 1/2 sheet packages. 400 is what I use to start final sanding on the guidecoated sandable primer to shoot the sealer coat on top of so the sealer will adhear well. When you use 400 on the top coat you will have to remove a lot more paint to get the 400 scratches out with 2000 in order to buff it smooth.
I also don't wet sand any of my primers, it puts moisture in the primer, primer is porous, moisture will get under the primer and start oxidation.
Charlie

Eric,

Have you tried the auto-paint place on Placentia ? It's on the west side between Victoria and 17th. Many of the local pro painters buy their supplies there. Sorry i forgot their name, but I have been inside and got A1 assistance to my questions.

Thanks! I was not aware of that place. As for the other comments, I am completing the bodywork on my car and spraying rattle-can "Dupli-Color" self-etching primer on the bare metal. I just want to smooth it a bit before I take it to the paint shop for final primer and paint.

So should I not sand the primer, or use the 400 grit as a dry sandpaper only?

Eric Read

You should talk to the guy who is painting your car. Let him tell you what he wants to paint over.

as I would have said no to the job, done it before.

400 wet paper used dry bungs up real quick.

You guys are right.

I don't know what I was thinking

Once I complete the etching primer I will take it to the painter. He plans on performing a light sand anyway.

Thanks - and never mind...

Eric

Eric I don't know if you are using the term " etch " primer generically or not but true etch primer is meant to be put over bare metal only. It is not to be used over filler. It won't hurt if a small amount gets on the filler but you shouldn't coat the whole thing with etch.

Epoxy primers on the other hand can be used over bare metal and filler.

Sealer/high build primers are for using over filler and SMALL spots of bare metal. As a rule of thumb if I have a spot of bare metal larger than a quarter I will put a touch of etch on first then topcoat with a sealer.

As for wet sanding, 400 should be done wet, and would be preferrd by the painter particularly if he is going to put a light sealer coat on the car prior to the base color.

HarborFright paper is crap. Toilet paper would last longer.

Toilet paper is the final step before buffing.

Yep - I took my car down to bare metal. I've been sanding for about a week and a half. The etching primer is to add some extra rust prevention in the bare metal.

I'll leave the wet sanding to the paint shop.

Eric