I snapped the top off of an exhaust stud a few days ago. There is thread left, but not too much. I have tried to double-nut it out, but there isn't enough engagement to get 2 nuts lined up and tight.

I tried some red lock-tite, and let it sit on a nut on the stud, but it came right off.

I need some tips or tricks to getting that stud out.

TIA

Is the engine still in the car and runs? If so, run it and get the head warm, try to get a grip with a wise grip. If engine is out, heat that area of the head with a heat gun. If the stud is really stuck in there and liquid wrench isn't helping, I don't know what else than heat would let the aluminum let go of the stud.

On a stud that I had a bitch of a time getting out, the guy that "won" used oxy/acc torch on the boss around the stud, and then cooled the stud with a wet rag and turned it out with a massive set of vice grips.

Or, you could try welding the nut on to the stud intead of double nutting.

Zach

I had to remove some where double nutting didn't work (not enough). I went down to autozone and purchased some metric stud removers. They look like sockets...grip the stud and lock on tight while you are loosening. Think I paid 20 bucks for a set of 4.

Heat is good. Then take a hammer and a punch and tap on it. Also try to tighten it a little, just to get it moving, then loosen, then tighten and loosen...hopefully it will move more and moor each time. Don't forget to threatin it with curse words.

I have felt your pain. I put a nut on mine and had a buddy weld them together and it backed out no problem. With the right tools not so bad, but I spent about 3-4 days trying myself first. SHould have just called my buddy instead of wasting 6 hours.

One trick to try is Heat and paraffin wax. The wax can wick down the imbedded stud and help in removal,
or welding the nut on the stud has worked for me, but let the nut cool enough to hold but still leaving the stud hot as hell, this method has work when others failed.

I now vote for the weld a bolt over the AutoZone extractor kit. Boss is now broken; It was probably weak already, but when I used the exstractor, it cracked the boss on the head and now it is more than half GONE! Doh!
Now my exhaust swap has become and engine and tranny swap!

Drill, tap, timesert.

Search 914world for "timesert"

http://www.timesert.com/ [url=http://www.timesert.com/html/install.html]Timesert demo video]

Probably won't work for Dino since the boss is trashed, but I like these for blind exhaust stud holes if the boss in intact.

I have tapped and used step down studs when a hole is stripped. I am running 2 now.

I am going to try and find a stud extractor today. I will heat the boss with my little propane torch to help it along.

Any other hints?

I see you lurking here Len. Help me out Bro!!

Those ex studs are a real PITA. Sometimes even old ones that look good turn out to be brittle. Early on I would leave the original studs in when servicing heads for customers that wanted to save a buck. If they looked okay and the guy didn't want to spend the money... After to many broke during reassembly, I quit offering the stud replacement as an option and made it standard.

I remove the old ones with the head mounted in a fixture on one of my Bridgeports. And let me tell you, even in that ideal postiion with heat and PB Blaster some of them just flat won't come out! Drilling down the middle of the stud is tricky but doable in the mill. Laying on your back under the car and trying to shoot down the middle of the old stud with a hand drill and a left hand drill bit... some really skilled/lucky people have pulled it off. And some really skilled/unlucky people have shot into the combusiton chamber! The row of studs that are closer to the crankshaft are the ones that cut right under the combustion chambers. These are the ones you really have to be careful with. If the bit drifts off center it can and often does run right into the chamber. I have seen many heads that came in for this secondary repair after a DIY nightmare. In one case a fellow working on one of the other studs actually drilled into the valve guide and didn't stop until he hit a valve!

I sympathize with anyone attempting this while laying under the car. Heat, patience, PB Blaster and prayer! Good luck, and wear eye protection!

PBlast is tough since the car is up on ramps. I'll keep shooting it in.

I am in no rush, so I am hoping a little torque and patience will win out.

More to follow. Thanks for the advce!

Anyone in SoCal have something like this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...00P?vName=Tools

Sears doesn't stock them locally, so that sucks.

that is what I just used to explode my head boss and my HEAD, BOSS!
(to myself!)

Heat + Paraffin + http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=96334 or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=93132

How do you get the paraffin up there when the motor is in the car????

The plot thickens.

Stevo lent me his MIG welder. Having not welded since high school, I was making some practice welds. Well, the wire stopped feeding. It seems to make it to the handle, then stops. Any hints?

You probably have spatter sticking the wire to the nozzle. Try unscrewing the
nozzle or chipping any junk off the end... Turn it off first, of course, and wear
gloves because they get very hot (obviously)...

Unscrew the copper tip of the miggy where the wire feeds through to make sure the wire didn't weld itself into the tip. Sometimes you have to unscrew the entire tip and its holder from the end of the mig to get the wire through as this is a typical area for the wire to hang up on. Also check the pinch roller that feeds wire into the cable from the spool to make sure you didn't get a wire kink or a birds nest going on here.

If you heat the head and stud enough, take the torch away and jamb an unlit candle at base of the stud and capillary action will wick molten paraffin into the threads, just like soldering copper pipe.

Hi,
some of the guys over here had good results with Würth "Rost off ice" just for getting the stud loose.
But I don't know if you can get it there

Marc

It's out! Thanks to Euro911 and his stud removal kit, I was able to get the stuck stud out!! This is the kit:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946338000P

Heat, pblast, slow torque and worked like a charm.

Thanks Mark!

Now I can't seem to find the replacement studs I bought...

So.... why were you crankin on your exhaust studs again???

Header?

so on reassembly what should be used to keep the stud from seizing again? anti seize?

Who is this????

Yeah, a eurorace. It's really loud too hehe....



It wasn't so much that it was seized, but that it broke off at the top and I couldn't get any torque on it. Once I was able to get a reasonable amount of torque on it, it freed right up.

ahh!

what nuts where used that the stud broke with?

Copper coated. I think the stud was just shot.

Nice... i like my eurorace header....

now make a sport muffler like me