Hey Gang,

Happy New Year
I recently had my clutch cable replaced and the cable worked fine for about 2 months. Then one moring last week, the car simply would not go into gear. The clutch would not engage. The pedal felt firm but nothing worked. I had my wife press the pedal and observed the cable moving at the tranny. (I know involving your wife always breaks something). I thought maybe the cable simply stretched out so I tightened it as much as I thought do-able. Still no luck. I have not dropped the the tranny, and really did not want to unless I had to. The pedal is stiff, and the lever appears to be moving but it still will not catch in 1st or Rev. Any thoughts??

James

Does the clutch fully disengage then? From your description it sounds like your issue is getting the trans in/out of 1st/revers and not a clutch issue. Check your shift rod bushing at the firewall. Late 914 or early? In other words side or tail shifter?

How much free play is there in the clutch pedal before the clutch arm moves?

I had a problem adjusting the clutch until I realized my clutch tube had broken free and needed welding. Not saying this is your issue but something to look at.

With the engine off and clutch depressed, can you shift into 1st & Rev?

When I did my clutch last Aug. I had the same symptoms only sooner. The cable was not stretching but the nut was backing off, probably due to vibration so I adjusted it to where I liked it and double nutted it so it couldn't back off and haven't had a problem since. Could be the same thing happening to you.

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

Clutch tube broken at the firewall!

It is a 73, it seems to move into 2nd and 3rd but not 1st, Rev, 4th or 5th. The cable seems to move fine. The clutch pedal is taught, even stiff.

If the tube is broken, would the cable still move the pully? I have not been able to find anywhere that is broken.

There is about a half inch of play before the clutch tightens up and then it is very stiff the harder you push. I have not been able to get it into 1st or reverse with it on or off. The shifter simply slips back to neutral. I have tried to find the problem in the clutch tube, but I can not see where it is broken, how far back does it go?

1. Have someone press the clutch with you watching the clutch tube at the firewall if there is no movement at the wall it could be detached at the front of the tube and your clutch is "almost out"

OR

2. Replace the clutch

PS:This happened to me and I was able to adjust the cable a few times before the tube ripped into the firewall. Once I fixed the firewall and tube it was just a few more weeks before the clutch went out!

Here's what I do when there is a clutch related issue. First back off the adjustment nut and pull the outer cable loose from the nub that stucks out of the firewall to the rear. You can then check to see if the tube has broken loose at the rear. You can open the tunnel and check the front part of the tube to see if the from has come loose and is flopping around. If either has broken loose a weld repair is in order. Next I check the jam nut that tightens against the fork bolt is tight so the cable doesn't unscrew from the front. If all is well up there I then put the outer cable over the tube at the firewall and I always make sure to seat it fully. If it is not bottomed then it will kreep and the clutch adjustment will go away. I then retighten the adjuster at the rear tight enough so the clutch releases or engages in the middle of the pedal travel. Some folks like it to be near the bottom of the travel but I like it a bit higher. ALWAYS use TWO NUTS at the transmission, never trust a nylock jam nut alone as the heat will make it come loose!

If all of that stuff is okay and I find I can get some gears but not all then I look at the taper screws (2) and all the bushings. If the bushings are over 2 years old I replace them. I also replace the taper screws. There are several parts inside the shifter that can wear out also such as the spacer bushing and spring seat and they can wreck havoc with shifting. That is one reason I went with a J West shifter. Finally I check the pinch bolt that clamps the front shift rod tightly to make sure it has not moved. I have some yellow paint applied so I can see if it comes loose.

In the worst case the pivot for the shift fork has failed on me once and that requires removing the transmission to fix.

sounds like a shift rod adjustment issue

You could have one of three things.
Clutch tube broke
Shifter bushings/linkage issues
1st/reverse slider is fubar

the check the clutch tube remove the third seat and the small access plate at the rear of the tunnel.
Stick the fingers of your right hand in there and feel the clutch tube on the sidewall of the tunnel nearest the driver.
Push the clutch in and out while feeling for movement.
the tube is welded in front of the shifter and at the rear firewall.
If either weld is bad the tube moves alot, not a little.

Shifter linkage is easy enough to check and inspect by the book.

slider.
Well, I would jack up the car in neutral and remove the rear shifter bar.
Grab the little shifter sticking out of the tranny and put it into first and reverse...
If you can...its the shifter linkage.
If you cant...you need to do the 1st gear slider and synchro.

Contact Dr Evil for simple directions on this process.
Its a few hours on your back with the tranny in the car.

Rich