We all do it. We sometimes need a tool for a special use. It sometimes makes the difference in how well a job comes out Earlier this year, just for the heck of it, I removed the shaft from the bushings in an old trailing arm. I ended up using heat. I did get it out but what a an awful stinky mess! Yesterday Glenn (gms) stopped by with 2 trailing arms he was cleaning up. He wanted to know if I had a press for the job. With a little scrap metal some machining and welding we came up with a simple tool to remove the shaft. Here are a couple pictures of what we came up with. The tool worked really nice. I think if wanted, this would also work with the trailing arm in the car.

So how about posting some of the special tools you have made.

I kinda like by engine crossbar wheels. It's not something you use everyday but they sure are easy to use. No trying to balance the engine on a jack or dolly.

Hi Ury

That looks good. I did something similar once. I used only 1 wheel on each side. On mine the bar folded over while I was moving the motor and I broke a motor mount (or maybe it folded over because the mount was broken) . On the next one, I will use 2 wheels per side in an effort to keep the bar from folding over.

Here is my version of the engine installation tool. Jack up the car and slide it in! Well woth the hour of "fab" work

Mark

I removed my /6 and tranny together last night and just used a furniture dolly. Works good, cost $15, last long time

Here's a couple things:

The first is a super cheap and effective DIY Soda Blaster

The other is just a couple Spark Plug Tools that make changing the plugs easier

I like your soda blaster. For cleaning the carburetor you showed, how much soda did you end up using?

Yeah Nate, that extended plug socket is good. I did something similar but had interference from the intake manifolds (tall dual weber manifolds), so I just drilled a couple of holes in the socket so I can hook 'it with a stiff wire handle after I put a new plug in. It will always disconnect from the extension, but stays on the plug until I hook it and pull.

For that pair of 356 carbs, I think I used around 2 pounds. I bought a large box (I think it was 3 pounds) and had around 1/3 box left. 'Course @ $1.00 or so for a 1 pound box, it's ridiculously cheap. It's one time use media so no need to splash-out for the "boutique" Arm & Hammer brand, the generic stuff is all you need. . .

My D-Jet break-out box:

My Brake bleeder. Probably the simplest of tools but a great help. I use a bicycle pump to add pressure so I do not accidentally add too much pressure. Makes bleeding the brakes a snap.

Those are some neat tools! I really like the arm shaft puller. I've been using heat and yes it does make a stinky mess!

I came up with this cobbled together piece for pressing out stub axles while the arm is still in the car. Had to beat one out at the track last year and it made me want to throwup. Fortunately all of the beating didn't hurt anything or change my toe, but I decided that was the last time a hammer would be involved in that operation!
It works great! An old brake disc, a few minutes on the mill (could have been done without the mill) and a few welds. The giant three jaw puller was given to me years ago so the whole apparatus was damn near free.

I lke this thread. Hope more homemade tools follow.

My English wheel and my shrinker / stretcher I converted to be pneumatic

I made an extension for my floor jack. When I jack up my car I get it up high and adding wooden blocks under the car would get scary after awhile.

I welded a old socket on the bottom of it to go in the hole in the jack.

I also get comments on the jack stand blocks. Who would have thought you could improve on a jackstand.

I build this tool box/welding cart too...

The frame in made of scrap Unistrut steel from a job site. I bought the tool box at a garage for $50 full of tools...

I found these bad boys at a auto show and really wanted them but I was afraid you guys would laugh at me....

Can we just skip the obligatory waiting period and make this a Lapuwali classic thread?

Here is my work in progress a P258c for seting pinion depth.

Ooooooo, interesting

Seconded.

I like the english wheel.

So, where did you buy the wheels?

Rich

some guy on E-bay seveal years ago. I really don't remember who he was. Wish I did, they are very well done. I have gotten some nice bead roller dies and a KILLER hammer from hoosier pattern ( sells on e-bay ).

I want a plasma cutter...my head hurts thinking about cutting all the plate steel...

Did you end up putting any bracing inside the english wheel frame?

Rich

Yeah most likely overkill as I used 3/8 plate for the outside but I wanted to make sure it didn't flex. Yes German overengineering at werk. Thank my grandparents........

I took two rear rotors, and two threaded rods and fashioned a spring compressor for the rear shocks. A washer and a nut at each end, and then a couple of turns on one, then a couple of turns on the other... back and forth between the two threaded rods keeping them moving at a constant rate as to keep the pressure even across the brake rotors.

here's a super flat 22mm wrench for tensioning a 944 timing belt...made out of a spare e brake handle lol.

Heres an engine stand I built for storing and running our 356 engines. Would also work for vw engines, just change the starter if its 12Volt. There is a Harley oil tank converted for a fuel tank in the differential space of the trans, and where the gear sets would be is the fuel pump and filter. LED lights on top of the trans are for oil pressure and ignition (so as not to leave the key in the on position if not running the engine).

Very nice! The lower frame looks like it may have come from an old engine hoist.

My Engine Test stand

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and the tool to check fuellevel in zenith carbs

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Here's my engine run stand and the starter box. The stand fits into my engine stand and uses a VW bus bell housing and starter. I welded up an aluminum 1 gallon fuel tank that's plumbed through an electric pump and pressure regulator.





The starter box just has a oil pressure light and ignition switch and start button. I added a friction throttle so I can hold the RPM I want w/o standing in one place during break-ins. I need to have a mobile box that allows me to cut power and move with me during break-ins as I check for leaks and such because I work alone at my shop. I'd like to re-do it some day and add oil pressure, tach and a CHT gauges.

That's cool!

I've got several custom jigs and fixtures, but as far as tools go this is the cheapest, most used, and get the most comfort level from knowing the car won't readily slip off the jackstands.

Andys

Here's my transaxle driveshaft holder tool. Keeps the drive shaft from turning so that you can loosen the castle nut without having to engage two gears at once. Scrap metal, JB Weld, and the serrated inner piece from an old clutch disk. (picture was taken on an empty case, no driveshaft on this one.)

Replaces Porsche tool #P37.

Haven't ever used it, but someday...

I'm gonna make me some of those this weekend....Brilliant!

Jim

Here is one that I made after having to remove the rear brake calipers and reset the venting clearance about a dozen times. It is just an old flea market wrench and socket welded together so it is easy to hold the ouside adjuster allen bolt while tightening the 13mm nut. I use my ratchet with the allen socket but I have also used a regular "L" shaped allen wrench also.

There is probably a way the pros use but I came up with this.



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Jim

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Here's the rotisserie pix's

Wanna check backlash on the R&P of your 901? Hold the crank when installing rods?

Nice, Tony!

So are you on your own now?

Stuttgart Specialists

This thread would not be complete without FourBlade's RockingChair Rotisserie


T.C.

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I have the 4 cyl version of the crank holder.

I like the backlash measurement set up. Do you have another picture of the piece holding your pinion shaft?

suspension bushing reamer

Here's another pic. Note that this is "Rev 0" in the development phase.
The blue tape sucked. Rev 1 was the use of JB weld. I coated an extra 30mm bolt with grease for a release agent then fitted it into the 30mm socket slathered with JB weld....then let it cure. This produced a "no slop" fit to the bolt. Since you are looking for around .015 (IIRC) backlash, no slop is imperative. The dail indicator is mounted at about the same radial dimension as the contact point of the R&P....tho I'm told it's not required.

As you can see, the holding strap is a pretty high tech piece of hurricane strap that is supposed to hold your roof on.....

I had to do some quick learnin' to install this sucker.....to include the pre-load on the ring gear shaft bearings...I had expert verbal instructions and a shop manual.

After running it for a season I'm gonna take the trans apart for some gear changes. The first look will be on the magnetic drain plug.....fuzzies are bad.

I made these for doing large deep shrinks. You slip them over the panel and give them a twist. This gathers the metal. Then... carefully shape the curve. I'm sure you can buy them someplace.

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Here is the result or close to it.

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Yeah we have been going for a few months now....Sebing again this year?

Definitely. Outside turn one, RV this year. Building a barn in the spring for projects. I'll post a picture of the white car. Nothing more than stripped at this point, waiting for rust repair and flares.

Good luck!

Sorry for the hijack everyone.

Nope its all new construction. I made it a three wheeler so its stable on eneven surfaces. The 3rd wheel is a lockable caster.
JIM