Can the webbing be replaced without taking the retractor completely apart ? Has anyone successfully done this ?

Yes. I think there is a topic on this somewhere on the 914 world. All you have to do is to be careful. Just pull the webbing all the way out as far as it will come. You can then see the slot in the shaft that holds the webbing. The webbing goes through the slot, and is held by a pin. Just take a small screwdriver or something, and push the webbing and the pin out the reverse side. The pin is located inside a loop that is sewn into the webbing. Remove the pin, and the webbing can be pulled out of the retractor. When you do this, you have to keep the retractor from unwinding. I just used a screwdriver stuck into the slot, and at one time, i had a small pair of vice grips clamping the shaft to keep it from turning while I inserted a new piece of webbing. By the way, the new webbing needs to have the loop sewn into it. When re-installing my webbing, I rotated the shaft a few more turns to add a little tension to make up for the 35 year old spring weakening.

Do not take off the back cover that keeps the spring in place. This can cause a lot of trouble. Just work with the webbing itself. Good luck, JoeO

Thanks. I thought this was possible

I found a photo. Good luck.

So.... a loop the size of the pin is sewn into the end first; then push the end through the slit; insert pin; an then release clamp...

Take lots of pics, please, and post them. I hope to do this to a couple of the belts we have (in this huge box of them) at GPR. It would be nice if we could start reconditioning them.

OK

No kiddin...

Hi Jim...
I've been waiting to see your car with those beautiful re-crhomed bumpers hanging in your garage... Are you going to make the switch before the WCR?

Looking forward to touching base again with everyone!
Mark

Still hanging. Won't change before WCR due to other projects in progress.

I want to know when you're going to ditch that 4 and put in a proper 6. At some point soon, like maybe next week, you're going to run out of mods to make and a 6-conversion will be all that's left.

Thanks Dave; already had a six back in the '80s.

You DON'T want to fool with the spring, it's a major PITA!

Got a pair of nice seat belt retractors from GPR and tried unwinding the spool and removing the belt. This is pretty easy, just gotta clamp the center like the picture above....here's a shot of my reel so far.
And a pic of the new webbing....each side is 8' long

The plan is to insert each new webbing into each retractor to keep the unit from rewinding, maybe a temporary clamp; put the three pieces of hardware onto the belt; then take the partially assembled units to the local upholtery shop to have the pin loop and body attachment sewn up.

Got one question: The retractors have one side thick and oneside thin, which should be the driver/passenger side ?

I would NEVER redo a seat belt for a customer or even a friend. EVER. The liability factor is HUGE.

The Cap'n

Lawyers again, they are feared like auditors. Hell do want you think is right. Do a good job. Don't let anybody stop you from making something. If they're going to sue you, they don't need a reason. I'd like to buy a set of new seatbelts.

There was a local shop that used to do this. Up until the 1st of this year. I stoped by and wanted to have a pair recovered, but they no longer do it. Liability. That suck. Please post more pictures.
I wonder which is more risky. replacing the webbing or driving around counting on 30+ year old webbing that had a life expectancy of about 48 months.

I did find this:
http://www.gotbelts.com/

gonna have a look around and see what else is out there.

As an auditor, I really should sue you for those comments






just kidding I'll wait until I get a set of those seatbelts

Eric Read
Director, Regulatory Audit & Compliance
A Really Big Company

The webbing is 8 feet long. Two pieces were cut. The only part that needs to be on the webbing during the sewing stage is the buckle. The hanger and retractor guide can be put on during installation.

Tomorrow, each piece gets a small loop for the pin sewed up and the fitting that attaches the belt to the body sewed onto the end. Here's a pic of the parts that you need for this step.

More later...

That will look nice. Found another:
http://www.peparts.com/StoreFront.bok

I used to work for a bank and most of the time we feared the auditors. I guess you guys aren't all bad. If someone had listened to some warnings, we might not have over extended our economy.

Sorry for changing the subject, back to belts

Hey Jim, you're a skinny guy like me. You probably don't need all 8ft of the webbing. Porsche had to make it that long to ensure that the big short guys could still buckle up when the seat was all the way forward. If you make it a bit shorter, you'll have more spring force and the recoil mechanism will work better.

Thanks Dave, I was wondering about that same issue. Will shorten before stitching.

Jim

Those are a direct replacement and look good. Seen them in a local 914

Seemingly, the stitching would be one of the most important parts of a finished seat belt. So although the webbing is new, how do you ensure the stitching is appropriate and complete and that it is compliant with all requirements?

Eric Read

Hi Jim,
Which size should we have? I am going to measure mine today. But, this seems like a great drop in replacement.
If I figure it out before you reply, I will post it.

The webbing came back today. Here are pics of the reassembly process.