I'm in the processing of cleaning up my 1975 2.0 and will be removing the air pump system. Pump seemed to be some what functional but was disconnected by the PO and the lines are plugged solid with crap.

I have removed the lines and also managed to remove the line insert that is threaded in the head without breaking anything.

I want to plug / block off these openings in the head but am looking for suggestions. I went to Fastenal and ordered some 50mm long bolts which should hopefully work but I'm not convinced this is the best. I have seen others who have taken the line insert and welded or pinched them off. Seems to work well but not the look I am looking for.

Looking for ideas or best recommended practise.

Disassembly of the engine and welding up the ports is ideal.

I've heard of using the 10mm valve adjuster screws and burying them in JB weld.

I've also heard of using the fastners like you bought.

I, personally, left the air tubes in the head and capped them with galvanized pipe caps. Threads are close and muffler paste keeps them there. Not pretty, but I don't care .... it does the job and besides I can't see them when I'm driving the car.

I used brass pipe caps for mine. Just took one of the air tubes down to the store and found the ones that fit. Looks OK and works just fine.
Tom

I used the 10mm adjusters and high temp lock tite. Worked fine....the other stuff was the problem

I mig welded the injector pipes shut and reinstalled them.

I see a lot of smog heads in my shop with 1/8NPT plugs. Welding the port shut just beneath the valve seat is best, but the valve seats must be removed to do it right. Ofcourse the valve seats need to be replaced on all T4 heads eventually anyway.

I braze the air injectors closed. That way, the plugs can easily be removed using a lathe. The Cap'n

I had the caps cut off of the pipes & brazed closed, then reinstalled.

Thanks for all the information.

There you go. 8 replies, and 8 different answers.

Where's that damn cat.

Zach

This man knows.

Steve