It's been 2 seasons since the trailing arms were rebuilt (Patrick M/S) which included re-fitting the pivot hardware. Last summer I'd get a random "knock" which drove me nuts trying to find. Finally, at the end of the season, *both* trailing arms started doing it regularly, which cleared up the "wtf" part.

I've never lubed any part of the trailing arm pivots - is this necessary, and if so, how and with what???

I added grease fittings to the housing and filled it up with Moly. You should remove the arms before drilling. I think PP sells some special grease but again the arms have to be removed to use it. I think the fitting is the best way.

Ken

Are you talking about the rears?

If so...
For the cluncking sound, check the mounting holes on the inner suspension pick-up (the "ear")
These may have been ovaled. If so, repair them.
(there's a good thread on it in the classic threads)

The squeeky noise you here is the polygraphite bushings (which I suppose you are using) are binding.
Check them for fit/wear and regrease them with the special gorilla snot
You could add zirk fittings for future greasing while you're at it.

Better yet, get some of those nifty rollerbearings form Mueller (if your budget allows it)

cheers,

Jeroen

Are you getting a knock or a squeak? If there's something knocking I'd make sure everything's tight before assuming it's the bushings. Check all CV joint bolts, wheel bearings, trailing arm bolts.

What did they rebuilt the trailing arms with? Stock bushings? Weltmeister street or race bushings? Bronze bushings?

If you have Weltmeister then they sell a lube that you are supposed to use with their street or race bushings. It comes in what looks like a contact lense case. Some people cut a slight groove in the bushing to help hold more of the lube since the pivot arm can displace most of it during installation. There should be some discussion in the archives on this.

No matter what it looks like you'll be removing the trailing arms to stop the squeak. Why not get a set of MuellerBearings to replace the bushings? This will definitely cure the squeak and are a performance upgrade for what sounds like a time trial / autocross car.

(side not to Mike: face it, they're called MuellerBearings, the name has stuck. )

Darnit Jeroen, I knew someone would type faster than me

Good call on the ovaled mounting holes.

Yep, I'm talking about the rears. Gotta yank em off anyway to try the 911 p-brake trick. It's definitely a knocking sound, doubt the holes are ovalled, but I'll know for sure soon.

Been thinking about Mueller's bearings "while I'm in there", is it a bolt-on project, or do I have to impersonate a machinist? Ballpark budget?

It will be a few weeks before I can speak from actual experience, but it's my understanding that the rears should be a straightforward install. The hardest part used to be fitting the sleeve inside the trailing arm but Mike has found a way to make this go more smoothly (pun intended) that should require a lot less

Yo Mike, jump in here and comment!

I found Mike's link to his price list and instructions. Looks like the rear end at least is easy to do especially with access to a press and one of those reamer gizmo's.

IN PRACTICE, how much of a PITA is the front install?

John,

Let me know when you are going to yank the rears. I'll come over and help you yank your rear if you come over to yank my front. Wait a minute, that doesn't sound quite right...

Hey - He lives!

Deal. Waiting for a) motivation, a clue, c) higher temps.

Going to either of the events tomorrow?

No. I went to Dan's last year and I think I've learned all I need to know. I doubt if there is going to be anything new. And, I'm not a CVR DE instructor so I wasn't invited to the other session. They don't know what they're missing by not having me there.

I am going to be instructing with FCSCC this year though. If you hear screaming coming from the Waterbury area on the third Saturday in March, that will be me in the passenger seat of a rookie's car.

Or it could be a carjacking at the Brass City mall

-Justin (CT refugee)

I highly recommend Muellers bearings.

They can mostly be installed with hand tools. I did need a press to get one of the sleeves into the trailing arm (Thanks Patrick and Peridot!) - and the press is the better way to do it. Other than that it's really a piece of cake. The fronts are supposed to need a press too, but a bench vise is capable of performing the functions necessary.

There are hardened sleeves that need to be slid onto the A-arms for the fronts; which require smoothing and shrinking the a-arm surface very slightly - but mostly this just needs patience and emery cloth. When you are ready, warm the sleeve and attempt to slide it on to the a-arm.

I was impatient at this stage, which means one of my bearings is a little stiff, but everything works nicely and I think I got away with it :-). Spend the time - do it right, and be a better engineer than me.

Mueller has excellent instructions up on his website, read through them first and get an idea of what you're getting into. It's a relatively easy project - it's just time consuming, and you want access to a press for the rears.

The finished product is wicked - my 914 handles like it's on rails, and I know my alignment is out. I taunt it by throwing it into corners and always come out on line with a S.E.Grin. (I call it the SEGWAY) :-) LOL

Fiid.