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1973914
Does anyone have pics and instructions on replacing the rear prop valve with a "T" fitting? And for the moonshot, instructions and pics for the adjustable prop valve install as well?

Thanks!
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mike_the_man
No experience with and adjustable PV, but installing the T is pretty easy. Crawl under your car, and you'll see the PV on the firewall. Unhook the 3 brake lines that are hooked up to it. Use lots of penetrating oil and a crow foot wrench (I think thats what they're called) so you don't round off the edges. Unbolt the valve from the firewall, and install the T. I had to bend the hardlines a bit to get them to bolt up to the T, but that was it.

A pretty simple job. The hardest part is rolling around under the car and getting enough torque on the lines to get them off.

Sorry, no pics. Once you get under there, you'll se what has to be done, though.
tat2dphreak
I agreee with mike... it took me about 10-15 minutes to do the job... and a lot of it is just the pain of working in a cramped space... installing the M/C was 10 times harder/more frustrating
aufaber
QUOTE(mike_the_man @ Feb 20 2004, 11:38 AM)
Use lots of penetrating oil and a crow foot wrench (I think thats what they're called) so you don't round off the edges.

It's a line wrench.

Like this:

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maf914
Line wrenches can really make a difference if the fittings are really tight. I always got away with standard open end wrenches until working on my Nissan pickup hydraulic clutch cylinders last year. I had some fittings that were getting rounded off. I broke down and bought a set of Craftsman metric line wrenches and they did the trick. You can get a lot more torque without damaging the fittings.

Mike
fiid
agree.gif Buy some - they are a must-have for old cars with seized nuts. Sears has a nice craftsman set - some other brand's sets don't have the right size for 914 brake lines - so watch out for that.

And watch out for seized nuts - that can hurt. LOL lol2.gif

Fiid.
1973914
Fortunately, my working location has a lift and all the tools you cold ever want to shake a stick at, so that dhould nake the job easier!

Ok, so it seems pretty stragihtforward as far as the tee goes. How about the APV?
aufaber
QUOTE(1973914 @ Feb 20 2004, 12:52 PM)
Fortunately, my working location has a lift and all the tools you cold ever want to shake a stick at, so that dhould nake the job easier!

Ok, so it seems pretty stragihtforward as far as the tee goes. How about the APV?

Open that access panel at teh back of the center tunnel lok in and you will see the brake line. There is a union there in the brake line. Take it out and repalce it will teh APV. You will usualy need some adapters to bo from the 914 line size to the APV and back. Bleed brakes.
1973914
THANKS! clap56.gif
JmuRiz
When/if I ever get my car over the Kurt's I'll let you have a look at my 'T' and see how Ray installed it. Or if you're in the Sterling area, maybe Sunday I should be around.
JWest
QUOTE(aufaber @ Feb 20 2004, 03:35 PM)
Open that access panel at teh back of the center tunnel lok in and you will see the brake line. There is a union there in the brake line. Take it out and repalce it will teh APV. You will usualy need some adapters to bo from the 914 line size to the APV and back. Bleed brakes.

If you get my prop valve then it will go right in at that junction (already has the correct fittings).
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