I'm thinking of JB Welding races on prior to powdercoating and then have them taped off. Seems the best way to do it, if it's possible.

Once JB sets up, does anyone know if it can withstand 4-500 degrees?

PM John. He works with powder coating for a living. When I was doing it we used lab metal to fill pits and smooth out imperfections so I know lab metal will work.

Check their website

I always read the data sheets for the powder I buy. All of the powder I've ever used specifies temps from 375 to 425. I've never seen a spec over 425.

The JB Weld on my heads is holding up fine. Never tried to powder coat it though.

JB is a powder coaters trick to use as filler for cleaning and smoothing welds before powder coating. It withstands 350-450 just fine.

Kyle
(Powder Coating rep for a few years)

I had a couple small spots on my exhaust weld to the muff that I sealed and it's held now for over a year.

Thanks guys.

Are you using jb weld to hold the races on a slightly worn spindle or to seal them instead of using the o-ring?

withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD

Bob

Niether.

I'm using them to install the races on a very good spindle vs. using the shim stock. If you plan on refinishing the arm this is the best way IMO.

It's hard to explain without the arm in front of us to demonstrate. The arm needs to be cleaned of paint and/or powder in most cases. The race is shorter than the section of arm it will fit over. This will leave that left-over section (exposed section once the race is installed) bare metal.

I find it best to take a clean arm and JB Weld the race in place then have the powder coater carefully tape off the race. This way you will have complete coverage on the arm and no exposed bare metal areas.

I'm using this method on Bob's arms with the Elephants and my arms with the FreeMotion races. No issues with the shim stock, I just like the JB Weld better.

Bottom line: If I powder coated the arms prior to installing the races I would have to take a good deal of powder off leaving a section of the shaft bare. By installing the races first then powder coating, this issue is resolved.

Shamed...

This is just a shot of the rear races. The fronts have even more area which needs to be covered. Elephants on the left, FreeMotion on the right:

Click to view attachment

Bonus picture... CFR master cylinder brace installs:

Click to view attachment

They'd suck to get off if for some reason you ever had to.

I would imagine a MAPP torch and about 10 minutes.

From the thread title and info throughout; JB doesn't like temps above 500.

Easier than the shims...