So part of my projects I am doing involves removing the old 4 mounts since I have a bulkhead mount. Then I get to paint the engine bay . While doing this I found a few things that may help you if you ever choose to do this.

First: Remove the brake lines. I almost cut mine when I realized they were still there. I thought I already did take them out but I caught it before I did any damage

Second: You should use a cut off wheel but not until you have used the sawzall. I spent two hours yesterday cuting out the one mount and used up three disks. Then it dawned on me to get out the sawzall and see how it would do. Like a hot knife through butter. You do need to be careful as you don't want to get the long or the ear or the brake line mount. What took me two hours with the cutoff wheel took 15 minutes with the sawzall and made less mess.

Third: now use the cutoff wheel to clean up. I have yet to do this but will do it tonight before I grind it smooth and prep for paint.

Hope this helps a few of you guys.

You've gotten the easy part. The tough part is those welds on the sides & top.
I used a die grinder & rotary file to get it all off. I had need of that space.

If you are the patient type you can drill out the spot welds, then cut through the
side welds and get them out in one piece. They are handy for people with bad
hell hole rust because the mount often gets crusty as well.

I got a pair from Mark that were in perfect shape and ready to weld on.

John

Yeah, don't cheap out now, there's still a good pound to be taken off on each side ...

Andy

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Oh I'm not stopping until it is all gone

When I cleaned out the engine bay for the V-8 I drilled out the spot welds and took a flat and thin chisel behind em and with a few wacks got the mounts off whole. There was some rust behind the passenger's side mount and I was surprised how easily it came off. Probably would have been more surprised if I had used the original mounts and the engine fell out.

I guess I should have thought of just drilling it out but then oh well.

I cut a little more tonight. Getting close. Just a little more cutting on the passenger side then I can grind the rest.

Eastwoods long cutoff tool is well worth it's price. I think it's up to 200.00. I use the 1/16 thick wheels and they cut like butter. I will buy another one when I wear the one I have out. It is greaseable but I use it alot and don't expect it to last forever. I used to fidget about how to get in a place and what cutter I was going to use but no more, I start with it and usually don't need anything else. There is a lot of difference between the 1/8 and the 1/16 thick cutter wheels. You are removing twice as much material and the area gets twice as hot and throws twice as much fire with the 1/8 wheel and they may cost more. I don't know I don't own any.

I also like the carbide burr and thin chisel approach to save some parts and time.

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Blair RotaBroach

http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cut...ld_Cutters.html

Blair makes three different type of spot weld cutters, but the Rotabroach are the shizzle.

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Here's how mine looks. Excuse the buffing splatter. I'll get that all cleaned up one of these day.

I put a small amount of compound on the pad and then put it on the surface and turn it real slow to get it spread evenly all over the pad before it gets spun up. It doesn't sling near as much for me that way. I do use a air buffer though.

Yup, they can be removed in one piece without too much difficulty. But keep going ,you're almost there.

Drilled out the welds and it came off pretty easy on mine. There is as JP mentioned a tough bead of factory arc in places though which is a proper sod to clean up nicely

Great job Jon.

With all your new found knowledge you can be very helpful to me?

I am pretty good with the spotweld removal tool but this looks to be a painful project.

What was your motivation for removing them, weight, were they in the way for valve adjustments, or did you just need a project?

I'm kinda undecided if mine need to come out.

Well Curt, after taking these off I would highly sugest you take them off if you don't need them. I would be happy to help you with the job as I now see how easy it would have been if I just drilled out the spot welds. The biggest reason, now, I would take them off is because of unknown rust issues under there and then you can add a nice brace to your suspension ear. You will also lose weight, gain room and make it look a whole lot cleaner.

Well, they are finally all off. Just waiting to hear from Dan Root. He is going to be helping with making the area stronger The passenger side was really the only side that had any rust issues. Drivers side looked new. Spot weld cutter was much easier to use than trying to grind it all off. Should all be fixed this weekend. I will post pics when finished.

Cool! can't wait to see it finished.

Okay, so today we only had time to deal with the front of the car as there was some areas I needed to take care of up there.

Here is were I am at with the mounts so far . Now just to weld the plates and some bars across there and we are done.

Cool! Can't wait to see it.

Stop by soon. I think I'm ready to figure out the fuel pump mounting and all

Cool!
I found a couple of fittings for you. We will have to see if they fit. I think we are close to having everything to do it. You will need to pick up two new fuel filters, probably about $10. I think I have another switch as well. I will check.