Runs are a bitch but def fixable, the key is dont get ahead of yourself.
You need to start with a razor blade, round the corners with a little sandpaper for safety, and start scraping the run flat focus on just the run itself and work it down over manny light stokes. Specifically keep the blade perpendicular to the panel and lightly drag it over the run which will produce fine confetti of white clearcoat. Dont try to just cut it out, you will irreparably gouge it. You will see and feel the run losing elevation until you are unable to just scrape it without scraping the surrounding clear. Actual drips are the hardest, change directions on them a lot and dont always start at the same spot to avoid making low spots around them.
Now get a very hard very small block, Wesco sells something called the unigrit, these work great, I dont trust the grit in it myself, so I wrap it with a small piece of 1000 grit sandpaper and begin blocking my scrapings till all razor gouges are gone, go to 1200, then get a regular wet sanding block flexable style and move on to 1500 then 2000.
At this point I like to Da the panel with 3000 grit trizact paper from 3m(this is actually my favorite product, i could write a thread about it haha) Although not necessary it cutts buffing time and reduces burn though risk and allows you to see your work quite clearly before you buff(have you ever tried to wetsand after getting compound all over a panel) If you use this remember to keep the panel wet just like wetsanding
GOOD LUCK, we had a run happy painter for a while when I was still a buffer. I have a lot of practice
. Feel free to ask any questions
EDIT: I have never met a painter that has made a mistake, ALWAYS the booth, the product, the gun, the temp, the lighting is probably the number one excu- i mean reason for mistakes really
and a good way to know when your clear has cured is jab your fingernail into a run or drip, it shouldn't indent or it is very likely to simply tear off while fixing