I spent about 2 hours cleaning, bead blasting and wire wheeling this strut. I got it primed and the next thing I knew is it crashed to the concrete. Primer worked good but the strut is now a boat anchor. It bent the hell out of the top. If the cap would have been on there it would have been scratched primer.

If it was me, I would try to fix it. Just thinking out loud here, but I would take the nut and maybe cut it in half or into thirds. Then take a heavy peice of wood and cut a moon notch in it of the same diameter of the strut. Then with the strut in the notch I would then place the nut fragment on the dent (match up the threads), take a hammer and then try to pound it back into shape.

It might not work and you may still screw up the threads, but I think there would have to be a way to salvage that strut. Get some other ideas and pick what you think might work best. Good luck!

There's gotta be a way to fix it, maybe heat it up, tap it out from the inside.....

I would take it to a muffler shop and let them heat it up on that side. Push it out slightly with a socket thenn thread in the cap and let it cool. You got nothing to lose cuz its still a good bout anchor.

stop cryin and fix that!!!
start with a BIG socket that is almost teh dia of teh hole. wrap w tape and wobble socket in a circular motion. dont try to straighten it in one rotation but rather slowly convince it to come out untill you can get teh strut nut in there to do teh rest. use plenty of lube on teh nut threads. GO SLOW. if you F#$k up the nut, Ill send ya a new one.

I like Casto's 2/3rd nut wood concept too. this is not my first time at this dance

It's worth a shot.

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...make a tapered hollow sleeve, that maxes out equal to the thread inner diameter, and follow behind the taper with diametric cylinder of 1 and a half times the treaded depth. Heat up the cylinder threaded end and tap until the taper reforms the diameter...chase it with the threaded end cap and cutting fluid and two beers...
Dave

That steel is not that hard to put back it's really softer than you think. I think I could clamp it on my welding table with the flat area down and just that amount of the tube hanging over the table. Then try a piece of broom stick wood or a wood dowel that you hang clothes on and try to tap it starting in the center of the flat, if you have to heat the flat area plus a little more and pry the flat down. If that doesn't work use the wood with a curved end to tap it back round while it is red with heat. If you have a junk strut insert you might use that as a pry tool as it is almost the same size and long enough to pry with, I'm not sure how strong the wall of the strut would be though.

I also like the idea of a tapered piece of hardwood and a big pipe wrench to screw into it while it is heated. You will probably need some candle wax for lube. I would take me quite awhile to make the wood piece. You might go to home depot and look at the wood tops for the decking or railing post for a ready made piece.

Sorry Mark was it the wind, it nearly blew my stuff away last night. And no you can't have the ones you cleaned up and sold me.

I know s**t happens. I used to tell my sons try not to make a bigger mess than what you start with but the guys that have a few messups every now and then are the ones getting the most jobs finished.

They sell plugs for large boats made of tapered wood at West Marine Supply.

Plugs

A pipe expander lined with sheet copper to protect the threads.

Some auto parts stores and tool places sell a mandrel for expanding muffler pipe, heat sick it in and screw the bolt on the mandrel to expand it out, chase with the strut cap , should come out fine , after all the work you did to it , do a little more instead of tossing it , lessen you loaded.

Jaxdream