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Thanks, but found info elsewhere. Topic deleted.
of course....
torque is measured in "foot lbs."
if you had a 1 foot long arm attached to your torque wrench, and 10 lbs attached to the end of the arm, you would have 10 foot lbs of torque applied to the wrench.
torque is measured in "foot lbs."
if you had a 1 foot long arm attached to your torque wrench, and 10 lbs attached to the end of the arm, you would have 10 foot lbs of torque applied to the wrench.
QUOTE(rascobo @ Feb 21 2009, 10:36 PM) 
I have two torque wrenches(3/8 and 1/2" drives)and know the 3/8's
is bad as it won't click anymore, but now the 1/2", set at say 30lbs, seems to be clicking before the bolt is even snugged up, and(of course) I'm in the middle of reassembling my car. I don't want to wait to Monday to buy a new one if I can repair one of these.
Does anyone know how to test the accuracy, and if necessary how I'd recalibrate it? Have asked around locally, but haven't gotten an answer, and figured someone here might know.
Thanks, I found instructions on the web.
There's several reasons I use the beam type torque wrenches rather than the clickers..
First, when using the clickers, people stop at the sound of the click. When using the beams wrench, you can find that holding the torque wrench at the desired torque will produce more rotation of the nut or bolt...... Which would you want?
Second, the beams have a free built in calibration. If the needle doesn't return to zero, you bent the tool.
Third, the beam wrenches are so stupid there is almost no way to screw one up unless you overtorque way beyond the operating range and bend the tool. That way, if somebody misuses your tool to remove lug bolts off a semi at 600 ft-lbs, it's obvious and you should ask for a replacement.
Ken
First, when using the clickers, people stop at the sound of the click. When using the beams wrench, you can find that holding the torque wrench at the desired torque will produce more rotation of the nut or bolt...... Which would you want?
Second, the beams have a free built in calibration. If the needle doesn't return to zero, you bent the tool.
Third, the beam wrenches are so stupid there is almost no way to screw one up unless you overtorque way beyond the operating range and bend the tool. That way, if somebody misuses your tool to remove lug bolts off a semi at 600 ft-lbs, it's obvious and you should ask for a replacement.
Ken
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