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sam quartermain

So still looking for the best rust free teener in socal.

This car is 5100 . seller claims there is actually zero rust . Called him to confirm. and he say's yes , totally rust free. How do verify that claims , and if car is rust free . is this a good value .

seller says car is a 73 , 1-7 original f.i. , runs strong . no rust , and no problems. and invite's me to come an inspect.

Does any one recognize the wheels on car ???

Is there anything i'm overlooking here.

And are smog laws closing in on these car's or only after 75 model's .??? anyone ?





ad is below::::::

Porsche is in great condition i am forced to sell due to my dads bad back and mothers surgery. Car has no rust lots of new.
Car is OBO location Huntington Beach plz
tod914
Your good to go with a 73 model year car regarding smog. Maybe see if a club member can do a PPI for you. Price seems good if as described.
G e o r g e
can't answer the $$$ question,

but the wheels are Riviera's , not liked by most, but loved by some

go look at it, check for rust in all of the usual places, then use a magnet on that fresh paint to insure your not buying a fiberglass repaired hell hole etc.....

Lavanaut
Are you sure you want a 1.7? Depending on what you have planned for it, a 1.7 might be a better purchase than its more expensive cousins. Just wondering if you'd considered it.
sam quartermain
QUOTE(George H. @ Mar 4 2009, 04:47 PM) *

can't answer the $$$ question,

but the wheels are Riviera's , not liked by most, but loved by some

go look at it, check for rust in all of the usual places, then use a magnet on that fresh paint to insure your not buying a fiberglass repaired hell hole etc.....








how does the magnet on the hell hole test work . If the magnet stick's it's the real thing and if not it's been fiberglass repaired or What exactly should i be doing???
PanelBilly
I'd overlook the 1.7 if it truely was a rust free car. Wait a minute is there such a thing as a rust free teener?

I mean besides mine. And look I actually took it outside for a little sunlight. Only for a few minutes, didn't want too much UV. Do they have sunscreen for cars?
sam quartermain
QUOTE(Lavanaut @ Mar 4 2009, 04:49 PM) *

Are you sure you want a 1.7? Depending on what you have planned for it, a 1.7 might be a better purchase than its more expensive cousins. Just wondering if you'd considered it.







I think a non , 2.0 would be better for me , less expensive , better milage?

i don't plan on driveing to hard in a straight line. mostly highway cruiseing . commuter stuff. . 70 mph and below.

Might want to do a raby motor 5k. swap or subaru natural aspirated swap too. Much later down the road. When I really experience and learn about these teeners.
Lavanaut
Right on, sounds like you've given it some thought. Better mileage out of a 1.7 though? Not sure I knew that...

Anyway if you pursue the car let us know what you find, and good luck.
rhodyguy
offer lunch and gas money for a member in the know to help you look at the car. that's the best money you can spend on a 914. low rust 73', with nice paint (esp an original silver car) and a 1.7 @ $5k is a better deal than a similar car that was/is a 2.0 with issues. it appears to be a distress sale, you might use that to your advantage.

k
championgt1
agree.gif

Zero rust. Yeah sure.
boxstr
Actually I would buy it in a second if I did not have to transport. If you are going to drive and enjoy the car then go to Huntington Beach and look at it.
Take cash and offer the seller $4500.
I have sold more 1.8 and 1.7 914s than 2.0, they all go fast enough to get you a ticket.
Good luck.
CCLINBUYMY914
Spoke
Having owned a 1.7L and 2L, I would not buy a 1.7L or 1.8L; only 2L. The difference is in the torque. The 2L has so much more torque than the 1.7L.

Don't get me wrong, the 1.7/1.8L are nice engines and run good but you want to go for as much HP as possible. The 1.7L are a bit underpowered.
ericread
I'm in Irvine, which is not far from Huntington Beach. If you want to meet me in Huntington Saturday afternoon after 3:00 or sometime Sunday, I'd be glad to have a look at it with you.

IM me if you're interested.

Eric Read
PeeGreen 914
QUOTE(ericread @ Mar 4 2009, 08:15 PM) *

I'm in Irvine, which is not far from Huntington Beach. If you want to meet me in Huntington Saturday afternoon after 3:00 or sometime Sunday, I'd be glad to have a look at it with you.

IM me if you're interested.

Eric Read

Sounds like Eric is good to go with you. You can have him go for a good look and/ or you can take it to Otto's for a PPI. He knows 914s very well and isn't very far away. I believe he is in Venice Beach. Okay, I really don't remember how far apart they are.
davesprinkle
My car was "rust-free" in all the normal areas -- that is, the battery tray was still in place, hell-hole was good, floorboards intact. However:

1. Both the jack-post pyramids were rotted out. (You wouldn't know it until they collapsed under a jack...)
2. Passenger-side upper corner of the hood gasket channel gone.
3. Rust in the fender-to-cowl seams.
4. Rusted hole through the firewall behind the passenger seat. (Damn engine pad collects moisture.)

Yeah, the hell-hole gets the most attention, but there are other areas likely to bite you.
dlo914
Could do a PPI for lunch. I'm only in San Gabriel. PM me if you're interested.
davesprinkle
QUOTE(Spoke @ Mar 4 2009, 07:18 PM) *

Having owned a 1.7L and 2L, I would not buy a 1.7L or 1.8L; only 2L. The difference is in the torque. The 2L has so much more torque than the 1.7L.

Don't get me wrong, the 1.7/1.8L are nice engines and run good but you want to go for as much HP as possible. The 1.7L are a bit underpowered.

I understand the appeal of more torque, but I don't think the 2.0 liter engine should be your most important criterion. I drive a stock 1.8, the most anemic of all the engine options. However, it makes me happy every time I drive it.

Get a car in decent shape. Whatever engine it has.
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