I've got one pivot brazed the other poorly welded. It looks like the welded one got hot and warped the metal a bit when it was done.

I'm debating what to do, the brazed one is solid and I was able to grind it smooth so it didn't look crappy.

I may just add a bit of weld to the other to lock it in.

But I'd rather pull em both out and weld in the new pivots I have.

My concerns are twofold:

1. The heat from melting out the brazing will warp the body. (Same on melting out the welded pivot)

2. Should I pull off both pivots, how would I make sure the new ones are both aligned properly? Do you lay the trunk with pivots bolted on to mark their spot?

TIA.

Replace them both.

Install the hindge on the old pivot. Mark the distance to the "lip" that holds the trunk seal. I forget the actual number, but it is the closest "constant" you have to measure against.

Cut the olds ones off and bolt the hindge to the new bracket. Hold it all the way up against the small folded piece of steel directly under the engine grill. Then slide it back to the measurement you took and tack it into place.

I wish I had pics of this but I dont. I have done 30-40 over the years. Very quick to do and I hang upside down to do them now..with the engine in the car.


B

I want to know how you get the torsion springs back on once you are done. I still haven't put mine back on.
They are all the way against the rear body so I can't even see the ends of the spring without opening the trunk.

In the past when I have replaced the hinge pivots, the inner part of the pivot was loose in the bracket. You need to spot it in place or you will weld the bracket in and then you will reassemble the lid back onto the car and find that the inner piece will slide out and you get to start all over. BTDT.
At the same time I also install Original CAMP 914 rear trunk shox and throw the tension rods in the scrap metal bin.
CCLINTRUNKSVILLE

Very very carefully.

Or you can do it like I did--very very stupidly. Unless you like pain, and have paid-up insurance, I suggest you not follow my lead...

on the springs. the easiest way i"ve found to get them off the roller is to get a 8 or 9mm deep 1/4 drive, a long extension and a few rags. with the rear hood UP, slide the socket/ext over the spring rod and use them as a lever. you can set the rod off to the side of the roller using the rags as some padding so you don't damage the area above it. i took off the engine lid and rear trunk lid(i indexed it on the hinge arm with a sharpie). my old bracket left a light outline when it was removed. i used it to locate the new one. leave the socket/ext on while you're doing the work.

kevin

Thanks B. that sounds like a do-er. I'll feel much better with fresh ones on. It'll just be messy to burn out that brazing...there's a lot of it. I'm grinding out as much as I can first.

Springs are long gone.

My 2cents... Mine had the plastic rollers. One broke. I bought metal replacements. Taking it apart was a piece of cake. Getting it back together was PITA!!! I now have NEW respect for those tiny little torsion bars. They don't LOOK that strong.. but they are - believe me. I finally cut a small diameter s/s tube about a foot long to use as a leverage bar. With the tool I made & the biggest screw driver sears makes I was able to pry the torsion bar under the roller. Not that easy a task when you consider that you have to keep it fairly aligned and it doesn't want to stay aligned.... Got one side done. Performed the same procedure on the other side - except - the leverage bar "tool" slipped right when I almost had the bar under the metal roller. Ouch!!! The torsion bar hit my thumb so hard that my thumb went numb. After I stood there for a minute - I closed the garage door & went in the house. Got it done the next day. In retrospect, I should have bought the rear trunk shock kit & thrown the torsion bars as far as I could. Best of luck & wear gloves.