I'm getting close to the painting stage of my engine compartment update. I would like some suggestions on what type of paint I should use.

I stopped at the local paint supply store, they sell PPG products, and talked with the guy there. I'll need to do some spot priming of the bare metal, so he suggested a self-etching primer in a can, an SEM product I believe. For the paint, my car is green metallic, he suggested using a single stage paint. He said a quart of the PPG MTK ($20-$30) which is an acrylic urethane should work good for the engine compartment.

He also said I would need a catylist ($13) and reducer ($20).

So how does this sound for a metallic paint application in an engine compartment?

Also, I will need to weld in a new battery tray/support and a new engine lid hinge bracket. How critical is it to spray weld-thru primer onto the car where these pieces will be welded to? The weld-thru primer at the autobody store was like $20....and I'm such a cheap bastard.



Thanks

Paint sounds about right. But you'll need to add in a gun and masking paper, tape. Also, get some cleaner, wax remover, degreaser. I like a product called Acryliclean. The weld through primer isn't critical, but you do need to metal etch prime any bare metal. And you need to scuff up any previously painted surfaces to give the new paint something to grab onto.

weld thru primer does slow down rusting under welds, this is important, I have done decent looking engine compartment repaints with Rustoleum spray cans however, also used the two part expensive paints using a spray gun, both looked good. You probably need to go the spray gun route if you want a matched color.

Prep is the key, degrease everything, then do it again, rinse off with HOT water.

do this BEFORE sanding, else the grease will be buried in the sanded surface, and come out later, also before sanding, and once again before painting, wipe down with a wax/grease/silicon remover. It is not the cheapest stuff, but really helps in preventing blemishes (fish eyes) in the paint.

If this is new to you, buy or get from library some automotive paint books, and read them.

Again Preperation is important, and is 80% of a good looking paint job.

Unless you are doing a show car, a perfect engine compartment is not that important, as far as a run or two goes or some orange peel, so it is a good place to learn to paint, but since the engine compartment is about the greasest/oilist thing to paint, extra care is needed with pre-cleaning, ecspecially if you are putting the effort into matching the color, and buying pricey two part paint.

the self etching primer is good stuff,
also if on a budget,(and who isn't?) there are some less expensive brands of good quality two part paints than PPG. PPG is good, it is a top of the line name brand, but you should be very happy with more generic brands, of basicly the same thing for nearly half the cost. I have used non-name brands (and name brands) and have been pleased with both, ask your auto paint store for the cheaper brands, if they don't carry them, find someone that does.

best of luck dave

RustyWa has a beautiful paint job on the outside so a nice engine bay is important. Sounds like all the paint I used to do the job last year, Eric. Is the engine out?? Is a bitch to weld in the tray and hinge with the engine in plus to paint the bay.

Scruff sand all the engine bay metal and clean with that Acryliclean stuff really cleans the paint nicely. Prep bare metal as mentioned.

Want me to swing by to look see?

Geoff

Geoff,

Yep, engine is out and the battery tray is out. I've gone to work some on the hell holes and the pass side inner fender with the angle grinder. Everything looks pretty good but I've still got to do some grinding and then a little surface rust treatment around the battery area.

I'm a week or two ( or three or four) from actually painting, but I'm hoping I can get some of the welding done in the next week or so and then apply the primer. If you want to stop by and take a look at my progress...."come on down".

Thanks for the comments guys.

Eric,

I am using PPG on 2-OH! and love the result so far...

Because I had to cut out engine tray pieces, skin pieces over the Long behind the passenger seat and cut out a piece on the firewall, all below the battery tray...Also, I cut enough of the Long to get down in there and coat 2 layers of POR15 on everything I could reach...I prepped the engine bay flat surfaces (anywhere water will sit) with Metal Ready and then two coats of POR15...

My painter is using a primer over that and then of course the paint itself...So I will have about five or six coats of paint for water penetration protection...did the same thing to the new battery tray & support and of course all the welding...

If you want to go out to see the patient, let me know...the doctor is spraying color today and tommorrow...He's in Bonney Lake...

2-OH!

Eric,

One other quick thought, while you are in there, take a look at the hinge mounts for the trunk...Loose the torsion springs for the hinge mechanism and replace with shock mounts from boxster on this web site...

2-OH!

2-OH!

I would like to see your car at the shop. Getting down to Bonney Lake during the week would be another story.

I replaced a trunk hinge mount on the drivers side about two years ago. I'll eyeball the passenger side real good. Torsion bars are working real good and will probably stay for quite a while. I've got to much skin invested in them to just throw them out.