I have a problem with my ´73 2.0 with the original fuel injection that drives me crazy!
I have completely overhauled the engine. After putting it back in I can not get it to start with the starter motor. The motor crancks but it will not start. When I pull it with another car it will start instantly. Using jumper cables from a car that is running at 3500 rpm does not help. Here is what I have done so far:

Replaced the battery with a new one;
Checked all the wires and connections, everything is set up correctly and the connectors are all oke, I´ve used contactspray on all contacts;
Replaced the spark plugs with new ones, left the new ones in, put the old ones in the caps and crancked the engine, all spark plugs give a good fat spark;
Set the timing;
Replaced the starter motor with a different one;
Checked the ground strap from the gearbox the the chassis;
Attached a starter cable from the gearbox directly onto the negative lead off the battery to elimanate ground strap problems;
Checked the fuel injectors, they all inject fuel when the enige is crancked;
Put in fresh new fuel;
Airfilter is new;

I really don´t know what else to try. When the engine runs, it runs perfectly, very strong, no smoke, no misfires, no strange noises. When I switch it of warm it also refuses to be started in the conventional way. I really don´t know what else to look for, it drives me crazy!

Anybody have an idea of what I can/should look for?

Frank

Does the car turn over when using the key?
Do you have a "logic switch" under the passenger seat?
When the key it in the run position, do you have 12vdc at the coil?
When you turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump come on for 1.5 seconds?

If your headlights open correctly with the key in the run position, remove one of the headlight relays in the front trunk and replace the fuel pump relay with the now "known" good relay from the headlight.
the fuel pump relay in in the main relay board in the engine bay.

Also, replace all your fuses...take each and every one out, clean it and put it back in.
There are two additional fuses on the main relay board in the engine bay...one is also for fuel.

Hmmm
If you get all that done, it turns over yet still wont start.
Pull a plug, pull the #1 wire and use that wire and he plug to ground out a plug while someone else turns over the motor.

If the car wont turn over its oneof two things.
Ignition switch needs to be replaced.
Logic circuit under the passenger seat needs to be removed and jump the two yellow wires together.

When an ignition switch breaks, the car will not turn over.
It will push start etc, but it wont turn over.
You can easily test this.
There is a fat yellow wire that goes FROM the ignition switch TO the starter. This is the momentary starter current.
Under the dash, near where the harness enters the tunnel, unwrapp a bit of the harness and find the big fat yellow wire...there is only one.

Stick a sewing needle right through the middle of the wire.
Use a multi meter to check that this wire has 12vdc when the ignition switch is turned to start.
If no, you need a new switch.
If yes, look under the passenger seat.

If you find the logic switch under the passenger seat, you will see the big yellow wire goes through the logic switch.
The simplest way to deal with that is to make a male/male jumper lead so you can simply connect the yellow wire together.

From there, the yellow wire goes directly to the starter.
The last test it to put the multi meter on the yellow wire at the starter and see if you have 12vdc when the key is in the start position.

Rich
Rich

I'm struggling with a similar problem. Even when the car is warm starting is difficult. Not impossible - just difficult. It will catch after a bunch of cranking sort of one cylinder at a time. When it catches on all four it then runs great. Fuel is there, spark is there, so the only thing really left is timing? Advance not working right? or perhaps something special about the mix that happens only when cranking? I don't have the answers yet but I'll follow your thread with interest.

From what I have experienced, the heat affects these motors in three ways.
First off, the motor is a heat sync...when you drive hard, then just shut it down, it actually gets hotter for about 30 minutes before it starts to get cooler...odd but true.

First thing is the distributor advance plates. These are 35 year old cars and typically the original distributor with the original grease in between the advance plates.
What happens is this keeps the points at full advance once it gets hot, they just sieze in place.
Simple to fix...remove distributor, take it apart, clean everything...re-grease the distributor plates..put it back in...it does wonders for the car and for tuning.

Second is the CHT. Again, car gets hot AFTER you shut it down.
The CHT has three settings really....cold, warmup, and hot.
These three values are a range on the CHT...but that range is matched to three fuel tables...so it uses three basic settings....that is the short version (dont a sk for the long version...go read Anders Djet site)

Simple fix...replace the CHT.

Third is fuel pressure.
Again, 35 year old fuel pressure regulator and pump. Typically the pump was replaced at some point, but the regulator has never been replaced.

Get an inline fuel pressure gauge. Simple cheap one at NAPA will do.
Its temporary.
Check fuel pressure when cold.
Drive car...
Check fuel pressure when hot.
Set fuel pressure when hot...your car spends 98% of its life hot...not cold.

Rich

Always good advise. Just reread it - each time I learn more. Guess I'm a slow learner

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm

Old thread but I thought I close the loop. Coil. Just put in a new pertronix flamethrower and vroom vroom. The old one (which I assumed to be an original black bosch) turned out to be something called American Standard Auto. When you shake it it rattles!

I have been busy with the car ever since I posted this thread. Sofar the problems have not been solved. I am beginning to suspect the Manifold Pressure Sensor. I have digged up some information about this intricate peace of equipment on the internet and it seems that it is possible that it sends out a wrong signal to the ECU causing the engine to run rich or lean over the complete rev range.
So I think I am going to swap the MPS and see what happens.

Frank

I'm looking at your first post and you say it runs strong after start - that really doesn't sound like the MPS. A bad MPS would start showing itself through the different load conditions on the engine. If you have a spare then no harm in swapping it out. Be very careful with the electrical connectors. They can be really tight and it is very easy to damage the wiring harness.

There are two basic tests for the MPS. One is to draw a vacuum on it and see if the vacuum holds. The other is to check the impedance on the electrical connection.

Check Richs comments above. Particularly the CHT and fuel pressure. Seems to fit your symptoms better than the MPS.

Guys, is there anything on the relay board in the engine compartment that would also cause the no start symptoms, yet allow the car to run with a push start? Not including the fuel pump circuit, because even with the bad relay board my fuel pump worked fine.

I ask because a few years back my car wouldn't start and I went through everything before finally swapping out the relay board (while still using the old relays) and it started right up.

Ok, this might be a dumb suggestion, but I did not see it in the help previously provided;

- Did you check that you have ignition voltage when you are actuating the starter? I once ran around in circles while trying to get a bug starting. it would fire as soon as I let off the starter and always under push start, but the ignition was not "on" while turning the key to start.

Check to see if you have ignition voltage while the starter is actuated. Your ignition switch could be shot, or just mis-wired, as was the case in the bug.

I have found someone with a 2 liter engine of the same year and het lend me his MPS. This solved the problem! The engine runs perfect now, I don't smell any petrol anymore and it pulls very strong. It will start immediately and idles perfect!

I am glad that I know now what the problem is. So now I need a new MPS for a 2 liter, Bosch number ending with 037. Does anyone have one which is okay and is willing to sell it to me?

If not, I saw that Automobile Atlanta sell reconditioned units. Who has experience with these units, are they any good?

Thanks for thinking with me on these problems guys, much appreciated!