1975 2.0 901 standard tranny...Three shims currently installed

I measure the three shims (gaskets) between the intermediate case and the tranny case...Measured individually and together, the total thickness as measured by a michrometer is .012...Converted to mm's that comes out to be .30 mm's...

The gaskets come in three thicknesses, 1.mm, 1.5mm, and 2.0mm's...

I can't get there from here...Where am I going wrong with my math...

In the first place, these gaskets are paper thin, noway they are 1, 1.5 or 2 mm's thick... so I am thinking it's a sneaky european trick with the decimal points...

Any help out there...

2-OH!

Yep. Missed a decimal place.

If I remember correctly, the three thicknesses are about .004, .006, and .008 inches thick. This corresponds to about .1mm .15mm and .2mm

Demick

Try to figure out what color the shims were, pink, green or tan. Match them to the old ones. yes of course they are old and full of tranny oil and its hard to tell but its the easiest way to do this.

Geoff

I don't think color will work, I got a 1.mm, 1.5mm already and they are both tan...

But, I think I will assume the decimal is in the wrong spot, move it one place to the left and everything works out ok (mathmatically) ...

What happens if I get it wrong and miss the total measurement by .004 or .006...Will the transmission not shift, slip, not mesh, explode, grind itself to death, etc...

2-OH!

They CRUSH when you crank it down. Go by the colors. The internal shims set the real crucial number. The gaskets need to be replaced with the same color. Dont freak out about it.. just use the same colors. You will be fine. I'm sure your pinion bearing has more play in it than those gaskets can compensate for.



B

Thanks guys,

I just ordered three "tan" because I think the tans are .1mm...When I mich out the old ones they come to .30mm and they appear to have been tan some 30 years ago...Therefore three .1's...There were three gaskets (shims) installed originally...

I now just hope I got the measurement between the reverse idler gear and the 1st gear slider correct...

2-OH!

Im betting somebody has been in that tranny before. Did it have 2 tans and one green ?? That is exactly what comes in the gasket kits you buy for rebuilding a tranny.


B

what is the measurement supposed to be for the slider - reverse idler?

brant

It is in the Haynes book.. but I dont go by it. I set the slider to engage first cleanly.. This makes the clearance acceptable for the reverse idle. I also mark the shift fork on the shaft before removal..


B

Did you pull the diff out?

well actually doesnt matter

if you have havent effed with th diff

bolt everything up... smear some prussian blue, or white lithium grease on the ring gear and rotate the tranny a coupla times....

unbolt the dif and check the "shmear" look for a nice pattern on the ring gear.. should be halfway between the top and bottom of the gear tooth..

The intermediate housing gaskets affect this... the shims on your diff affect this also

what you want is a nice pattern on the ring gear..

If you get it f$%^% up you just have a whining tranny...

OH.. something that has NOT been brought up in public..

Make damn sure you thread the studs BACK into the case after you have everything out.

After removal a few times the studs start unthreading each time. Very few (if any) speak about this.

Basically.. run them back into the case by grabbing them somehow or double nutting them. YOu can see the backside of the threaded hole in the case. Run the stud back in until it goes at least flush with the tranny.

I know several tranny builders who run longer studs and install nuts on the case end of the studs for added protection.

Last thing you want is a stud pulling out of the tranny case... also.. only torque the NYLOCKS you are going to use to 10lb ft

B

[QUOTE]I set the slider to engage first cleanly..

Brad,

Can you give me a little more definition on how you do this...Haynes is very vague and leaves a lot out...

2-OH!