Im planning to pull my axles to take care of my rear bearings.

do you need to pull the heat exchangers to be able to pull the axles??

No, but it would make it easier.

hmm, really?
do you need to undo the strut and let the arm hang lower?

I kind of gave up when I couldn't get enough play between the trailing arm and
the trans to get the stub out.

anyone have a more in depth plan of attack on this? I really don't want to pull the
HEs if I don't have to.

If I read that right you want to remove the axle still atached to the stub axle?

I seperate the axle from the stub axle and remove it first. I do not unbolt the trailing arm from the shock.
I unbolt the CV from the flange on the trans and the stub axle, tap with a rubber mallot and pull away from the trans
on the inboard side.. The outers can be stubborn, when this happens I use a piece of pipe with a notch cut
out long ways so it slips over the axle. This way I can use it as a 'Slide hammer' to pop the CV loose from the stub axle.

As others have said, no, you don't need the HE's removed to pull them... but it does make it easier.

As far as removing the CV's w/ the stub axle... after removing the big castle nut from the shaft, get a big f**kin' hammer, and use itty bitty baby taps. DO NOT use a torch.

A standard hammer isn't heavy enough and will mushroom the axle. I screw the castle nut on backwards so it's flush with the end of the shaft, then use a 10 pound sledge with light taps. I know it sounds weird, but I destroyed a 4x4 block of wood in an attempt to remove the stub axle with brute force. When I tried just tapping (okay, so harder than a tap, but not wailing on it) on the shaft with the sledge, the axle slid right out.

I have absolutely removed an axle with the outboard stub attached with the HEs attached and no other parts removed. It's got to be aligned 'just so' in order to sneak out of there, but it's possible. But actually, come to think of it, I only did the passenger's side. I haven't tried the driver's side and expect that one might not be possible.

But.... unless you already have a proper rear alignment, just pull the trailing arms off and then work on the parts out of the car. Much easier and more 'sane'. Put your bearings in the freezer now, and when you go to install them, heat the trailing arm with a propane/MAPP torch. The bearings will slide in by hand or with a slight tap. EASY!

As Mark said, you will have to hold your mouth just right to move the axles around. I recomend removing the HE. The other option is to remove the starter on the drivers side. Soak everything the day before with PB Blaster or something close.

thanks everyone for the replies.

to be honest, I never thought of separating the cv at the stub.

I'll pull the starter first and see if I can do it that way. I feel more confident
now that others have confirmed in it can be done without pulling the HEs.

thanks again!