When I bought this car, it only had one of the two bolts holding in the forward drivers side a -arm attacment point (where it attaches to the body under the front trunk.)

I figured it was just due to the accident that had taken place at some point in the car's past, and during the repair the mount offset a little.

Well, I was probably right, but not how I figured. Once I got a good look at everything, this is what I saw:




As you can see the flange on the A-Arm right behind the mounting point is buggered. Inverted. And it is pushing against the bushing and holding the mount out of location.

So. How do I fix it?
even with a BFH I was not able to knock the mount off the bushing.
I DO NOT want to drop the A-Arm. I just got everyhting put back together, and removing all of the front suspension is more then I can fathom right now.

Other alternative is that I could just continue driving on one bolt, as the PO must have been doing.

This car is just determined to stay home from Hershey. At least I got my brakes up and working.

Zach

All bad, i'm afraid. At this point, i wouldn't be surprised if the whole A-Arm is bend.

I wouldn't drive that thing more than 100 feet with only one bolt in it. But that's just me ...
Andy

Shit.

Pull that shit apart and make sure everything is as it should be. A little time now will save you a lot of time and frustration later.

zach good used a arms are cheap as dirt it is just the labor as you say to change it!!!!

Can I pull the A Arm out w/o dropping the entire front suspension? I really don't want to have to pull the Master Cylinder and undo all my brake line fittings. That is a really hateful job, and I JUST got it all put back together.

Zach

Sure - done it...

either disconnect the strut from the ball joint or the ball joint from the A-arm. and pull the tie rod end. At that point, the A-arm is just held in its mounts.

You may have a challenge getting the torsion bar out if there's any bending - I really had to wail on one from California no less and there was no bending at all...

Yes. Loosen all the mounts remove the R.one on that side
Yank that A-arm and replace it. George is correct.
You should be able to pick one up inexpensive or free.
Let me know if you cant there is pair on a 72 that is going to
the crusher I wasnt going to pull them but I will.

Pussy...hit it harder.

RIch

The rubber is bonded to the mount and the arm and usually takes destructive heat to get them apart. If your observation is correct this does not need to be big job. The flange bends fairly easy. Take a flat punch and tap the flange back. Start where you can access it and work it back into position. The rubber may have taken a "set" making the bolt hard to get in. Remove the other bolt and get the missing one in first.

Yup, that arm be bent. Don't use it, it's garbage.

Zach,
Which side is it?
Do you have a sway bar?
I might have one...I threw out a bunch of them...I might have saved a decent one or two.
Rich

I've got Dr Evil searching through his contact to see if there is an a-arm local. If not, expect a desperate plea in the parts wanted forum. I;m not giving up hope. I still want to drive my car to Hershey on April 25. The good Dr should know one way or another by Thursday.

Zach

lemme know...I have a few..not sure what side, sway or not...

Rich

Drivers side. Yes, I have a sway bar.

Zach

Odd but true.
I have two passenger side ones with the u-tab sitting on the shelf.
I must have thrown out the other ones...if they have any rust through, I chuck them at the scrap yard.

If you get in a bind, let me know..Rockets tree car has a pair..they are not bent...but I need to remove the one you need.

Rich

Zach,

I've got an extra driver side A-Arm. Only problem is that there tab that holds the ball joint is kind of messed up. The ball joint fit fine, this was not evident until I removed the ball joint. Pictures are a little blurry, but you can see what I'm talking about..

It's yours if you want for the cost to ship it to you from Oregon (97124). It does have the sway bar tab.

Zach,

If you're online, there's an Ebay auction for an A-arm ending in 17 minutes!

Ebay Link

I might have 2 sitting around. Don't think I tossed them. I went with 911 arms. Let me know if you still need one and I'll look. It'll need a new ball joint. As I recall one had tab one didn't.

I discovered the same thing , in the same place on my recent buy. The mounting nutserts and the plate that they are mounted to are bent forward as if just like yours it had hit something while backing up , this bent it all forward cocking the arm bushing mount. Gonna figure out some way to bend the body mount back towards the back of the car. Any suggestions???

Jaxdream

The picture are not that great but that does not look too bad top me. Looks like the damage was done backing up and caught the edge of the sheetmetal flange. The tube portion of the arm there is quite stout and would take a lot of force to bend it.
If the tube portion of the arm is still straight you might be able to bend the flange back toward it original position with a stout flat end punch driven up at and angle between the rubber bushing and the flange.
I have straightened the flange on several A-arms but they were are I removed the bushing and mount from to install hard bushings. The bushing are a very tight press fit, not bonded, but very hard to press new bushings back in.

If you are in doubt about the integrity of the arm replace it with one you trust.

Jim

I have several ... would have to ship from CA though.

Lemeknow .................

To start with I would find a big piece of aluminum or a brass hammer for a punch, and use about a three pound sledge and hit the bushing bracket and try to straighten the flange or get the bracket straight enough to get the bolt in. You might want to put the left side bolt in and lightly snug it to cause a swivel motion to the bracket as you hit it. If the rubber comes apart to much to last till you get back then you gotta change at least the rubber out now. I think it will straighten out ok for now. Of course put a bolt with a good washer under it to keep the bolt head from going through the bracket.

I see there is a dent in the shaft of the arm but the direction looks like it was inline with the shaft and really just caught the flange.

I think those hickies happen when the car is pulled on and off lifts.

I've got two freebies I can ship from Jacksonville - no tabs though...

you may find releasing the ball joint from the control arm first than from the strut assem, easier and faster.

I got an A Arm yesterday from Dr Evil. we are not sure if it is a 911 part of a 914 part though.

What is the spline count on the 914 arm?

Also, what do I need to have on hand to make sure I don't have to stop 1/2 way through because I don't have the right bushing, bolt, nut, etc.

Zach

Zach - 29 spines on a 914 A-arm.

Zach,
The big bolt in the back comes out.
The rear adjuster comes off, bolt and all.
the two from bolts come out (you only have one...make sure you have another one)
Before you do any of those, remove the cotter pin (get a new one) and remove the flat star lock down tab thing...then remove the nut on the bottom of the ball joint.
remove the sway bar drop link from the a-arm.

Now, all the bolts are loose, pry the a-arm off the ball joint...now the strut needs to be supported...dont worry about the a-arm...its not going anywhere.
Get a floor jack , or a block under thestrut.
Now you have to wiggle and bang the a-arm towards thefront of the car.
pry the housing out of the main cross bar.

It will eventually come out with some effort.

Weel, then pit it all back...its a one -two hour job ....
Make DrEvil come help you...supplybeer.

RIch

Got the old A Arm out. decided to remove the ball joint after the arm came out after nearly pulling the car off its jackstands trying to remove the castle nut. :eep:

After re-centering the car on its jackstands, I made a come-along out of some ratchet straps, attached one end to the A arm, and the other end to my work bench. Got some tension on it, wiggled it around, and it popped right out. Easy as pie.

Got the ball joint out with a pipe wrench while the arm was held in a vise. Much easier then doing it on the car. *MUCH*

Everything transferred over to the new arm w/o a hitch. However, I need some parts to finish the job.

The foam grease gasket broke up, so I need to replace that. Also, the cotter pin and sawtooth keeper thing were missing, so I need to get those.

I'm going to call AA tomorrow and see if they can get them to me this week.. They usually ship faster then Pelican (much less far to travel).

I suppose it is going to be a bitch putting the new arm back into the rubber bushing. But that will be a job for Tuesday after work.

Zach