Howdy All,

Here are some pictures of my Battery Tray and Hell Hole corner. I am wondering how bad this is on a scale from 1 to 10 (10 being throw out the car and 1 being new)? Also, your views and thoughts on how to resolve the issue. Can I just put a new battery box down below on the frame and be done or does it all need to be ripped out and welded?

The car is a 1973. All the options. Entire car works great. Daily driver. Needs paint but all is there. Euro everything. No injection. 2.0 engine that passed emmision without a hitch. Tranny is great too. doesnt pop out of gear or grind going in. 2 small quarter size rust spots under the drivers seat. Not in the rails. Needs paint...


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For some reason pictures are a little tricky...

Another one...

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How does it look inside the long? Make sure there's NO rust left in there before you close this up!
Also check your suspension console and ear on that side.

I think Engman has a hell hole repair kit. The original battery tray and support are still available and not expensive.

If you know how to use a welder, this should be a pretty easy fix.


Drop the engine and tranny. It's quick and you'll have much better access and space to work in there ...
Andy

Another...

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Btw. your return spring setup is a disaster waiting to happen ...
Andy

Do you need to remove the engine to do it? I am a little nervous about having to take out the engine. I have jack stands but is it a one man job?

I bought the battery support and tray. I can weld those back in there. I was also thinking about using 2 bults on the bottom side, since reaching it with a welder would be tough.

Thanks again for your thoguths and views.

Eric

Not sure if this is worth pointing out or not... but what is this flap? And yea, if you are going to be welding check the longs as SirAndy said.

I am not sure what it is... Here is another picture or two...

Does this spring work for my Carbs? = ) LOL Good group.

Eric

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If it was me, I rip everything apart and make a production about trying to make it all look perfect again. I might never finish it.

Honestly, I think you could screw the battery tray into the wall and it would be fine for years.

Can you screw the support and tray in? Has anyone ever done this before? I guess I could weld a few spots and then use screws for the rest? Dang, I would pay good money for a picture of someone that has tried the screw in approach.

I also noticed that the front trunk has 4 holes in it... For a battery?

Also, are those 4 huge washers for the sway bar stock?

Thanks for the help. = )

Eric

Thats what the previously PO did on mine....look like it had been there a while as well.

Did you redo it or is it still holding strong? Did he just use Screws or are they bolts? Can you get behind the wall to put nuts on or are screws your only choice?

I think a full weld job like the old one is the best way to go. If you cant get in to get all the welds done, then I would guess that Welds and Screws would be sufficient. ??? = )

Thanks for the picture

Eric

it was bolted on. I would not recommend this though, even though it was still holding fine. get the new one welded in and use an optima battery.

Nope, that's what we call a "Hackjob" ...
Andy

What is the impact of a "Hack Job" on the sway bars with regard to working and resale?

Interesting. They look great from underneath. The car handles incredibly. Tons of fun to drive. = )

Thanks again for the info.

Eric

Hard to say. If it works, good for you. As for resale, if i saw that on a car i was going to buy, i would probably pass on the car as that sort of "Hackjob" is usually a good indication of how the owner has treated his car and i would expect other, similar "quality" repairs ...
Andy

PS: The correct hardware for the rear swaybar is readily available and cheap. There is no reason to drill and hack into the reinforcement crossbar ...

Weld in the backing plates:
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Clean up with some primer:
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Weld in the brackets on the underside:
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Clean those up with some primer and/or paint as well and mount your swaybar to the (stock) brackets ...
Andy

I can't believe the ground clamp is on the exhaust. All the welding amps went through the tranny ground strap I hope.

Yeah, we got balls!

That's not bad. That's standard. Pull the motor and weld it. It's time you learned just how easy it is to get the motor out. We have a tech article on it, click on 914 Info at the top of this page.