Okay Originality experts - I'm going to just ask some K.I.S.S. single topic questions to solicit your guidance on this, cuz my overly complicated posts just aren't workin'!

This question is how should I paint her, after I get everything repaired & rust issues resolved, given that....

I'm not a CW guy nor looking to make my 914 one, but just a true to original/OE & nice occasional driver, such that I maximize both it's current & long term value, as well as long term survivability.

I now know that my 1973 914-2.0 both has matching GA engine numbers & possibly tranny too (but probably not the latter) per the COA & car's numbers that I can read. It's an early 73 2L - built 9/72, VIN 4732901954 & Engine GA000424.

Per the under carpet/other "hidden" areas + COA - it's originally a L80E "Light Ivory/11" (white - blah! for my personal tastes) paint color.

ON the other hand & curiously, the COA says its a "Black Leatherette/31" - when it's CLEARLY a TAN with matching loop/pile carpet !! ...although the L&R door armrest TOPS & Dash etc. are Black !?

The interior is pretty good condition OE that will clean up well - with the exception of a 2" x 3" tear on the driver seat side bolster & 2 small 1/2" & 1" tears on the passenger seat side bolster & pass. side door top bolster underside (can find matching leatherette to sew-in those sections), a crack in the middle of the dash (new since stored), leather on steering wheel needs AM recovering kit (easy), & missing L&R OE carpet floor mat sections (easy to remedy with nice embroidered aftermarket carpet mats & hunt for OE replacements under that).

It has some moderate body F&R body-face panels & surrounding sheet metal work to be done - so it's NOT an accident free example, nor is it a low milage "garage/trailer maven" at 174k indicated & perhaps up to 190k true counting short periods to get speedo/odo. cables fixed over the time I owned it since 12/26/75.
Pix are posted at: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...93838&st=60

However, when I bought the car just over 3 years after first sold, it was what looked like a 3 year old Tan or Gold paint color - perhaps a first buyer or dealer initiated "Dealer Repaint" at the time of first sale on 11/9/72!

Because of the early aging of the Tan/Gold paint, I had it repainted to Copper Metallic/L99K in 8/76, then again in 5/80 I repaired some small rust bubbles & repainted it to the 911/930 Anthracite Grey Metallic/#??. I know - BAD me!!!! ...at least I was smart enough to go for a `73 2L, instead of a "purdy new" but slower 76 2L!

Notwithstanding the above - if I had bought a 73 914 new MYSELF, then I would've probably ordered either Marathon Blue Metallic/L96M or Alaska Blue Metallic/L96B or another Porsche or custom color match in a Blue Metallic/L99-98 -- get my BLU drift!?

To Summarize - An early 73 914-2.0 / "914S" with a strong running matching numbers GA 2L, a reasonably nice OE Tan Interior, but with some rust bubbles & 3"x6" RF Floor Pan Rust & Body Damage F&R to repair, & 170-190k miles....

...so how much should I fret researching stuff & putter her back to "absolute original" ?

.....versus just making ME happy with how I wudda ordered the car myself???

AND So the Color Questions:

Should I only consider going back to the factory L80E?

...or...

Should I research whether the Tan/Gold was a Dealer Repaint & the way it "drove off the dealer's lot" ....& repaint to that??

In other words - should I even waste time trying to track this 1st color change down?

...or...

Should I just pick an appropriate 1973 Blue Metallic choice above, as I would have done putting out the "full ticket" new car price???

Here are some pix for your perusal & "viewing pleasure"....

A TALE OF 4 COLORS AS RE-PAINTED FROM BEHIND REAR BUMPER -
ANTHRACITE GREY METALLIC OVER COPPER METALLIC OVER A TAN OR GOLD (METALLIC?) OVER THE INITIAL WHITE:

Click to view attachment

THE HALF-FAST COA - STILL WORKING TO GET IT CORRECT & COMPLETE!

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BUT I'M PRETTY SURE THIS IS A TAN INTERIOR!!

Click to view attachment

AND TAN PILE CARPET

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THE REAR TRUNK CHASSIS NUMBER - NOTE MORE OF A GOLD TONE HERE, RATHER THAN TAN-ISH

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ID PLATE @ LF HEADLIGHT BUCKET - PAINTED OVER

Click to view attachment


MATCHING GA ENGINE CASE NUMBER

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TRANSAXLE CASE NUMBER - BUT DOES IT MATCH? ...DOES IT MATTER IF IT DOESN'T, SINCE GA# DOES?

Click to view attachment


IS THIS A 4/28/1979 BUILD DATE???? ....OR???

HOW LATE WAS THIS 914 / [9]11 CASE MADE?? ...INTO 1979???

FYI - MY 12/83 SERVICE RECORD FOR THE TRANSMISSION OVERHAUL INDICATED A USED CASE WAS PURCHASED - BUT COULD THAT HAVE BEEN A DIFFERENT PART OF THE CASE, THEREBY LEAVING THIS NUMBER INTACT AS ORIGINAL NUMBER?????

OOOPS.......HERE I GO AGAIN, ASKING TOO MANY QUESTIONS! ...I'M .JUST A "SPONGE" AROUND YOU 914 GURUS, I GUESS!

THANX IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR OPINES!

Hi Tom, I'll have to take a moment (or several) to read through all you've written but one thing jumped out at me; the COA stating Light Ivory 11. While technically correct it should read Light Ivory L80E. 11 is the Porsche code number that would be on a 911; L80E is the proper VW code for a 914. Light Ivory has been around since the 356 days. (still is only now it's called Campanella White by VW)

I'd go back to them and tell them to get it right - if they can. Bring up the obvious interior color error; that they have written the paint code in wrong etc.. What does the Karmann plate have for a color code?

The biege in your pic could be one of the factory spec colours - Sahara Biege or Grey-Beige. And it's not unheard of for someone who buys a a car, say late in the summer when the next year's model are coming out, when the pickings are slim as to color choice. They take advantage of end of season sell-offs but choices are limited to what is available.

My first 914 purchased in 1983 from the original owner was Marathon blue; the lady lived accross the street and I remember the day she brought it home. 10 years later when I bought the car I discovered the original paint code for Sunflower yellow; I asked her about it - the yellow was the last '73 on the lot; loved the car, not so much on the yellow, sat down with the color deck and picked Marathon Blue. Car was disassembled and repainted before she ever drove it.

m.

Tom:

Unless you are going to make a serious attempt to restore your 914 for concours level judging (willing to strip the vehicle down to it's shell for a repaint), I wouldn't waste my time considering the COA specs, and choose the paint color that you personally prefer.

Tom, seems like you have alot of sentimental attachment to this particular car. Olympic blue one's do pop up on occassion. Get the best of both worlds, fix this one and paint it the blue you like. Bet it would like real nice with that tan interior.

So, this is one of your "simple" posts?


Andy

PS: Paint her in the original color!

Tod & All - the thing that I'm most concerned with on the paint color question, aside from my personal preferences, is that apparently the car's value could be significantly less if painted a different color than the COA/Labels & Plates denote - perhaps by several $1000s!

Is this correct or not? ...& if so, by how much do I lose?

...&/or....

Have I already "screwed the pooch" value-wise due to the accident damage - even if properly repaired? ...i.e.: it doesn't really make a diff color-wise anymore, due to that damage.

Maybe Dr914 George has an opinion & numbers on this??

I've decided that I can live with L80E (white) or Tan/Gold if the value is substantially less! I've seen AA & others list what seem to be clean 914's for $5 - $7500 supposedly because the PO changed the color, vs. others in original form between the $13 - $20+ thousand range (per current NADA for 73 2L retail pricing on-line)!!!

If I'm going to lose 1/2 or more of the value, then hell wid it! - White or Tan/Gold it is!!!!

...and if that, then I need to know whether I should look for how it got to Tan/Gold & document it as a "Dealer At or Pre-New Car Sale Repaint" - if it was?
...& whether I would repaint it the Tan/Gold??
...or if I have a choice to ponder of either Tan/Gold or L80E white???

If value loss is not a concern in my case - then I think Olympic Blue is a non-metallic, so I'd probably go with one of the "period correct" 914 metallic blues mentioned in my first post here - and, yes I agree, it would look reeeeeeally good with the tan interior!

The tan interior is also a lot cooler than black here in sunny & semi-arid (read = almost a desert!) SoCal with a non-AC car!

...same for the AZ, NV, NM & South TX folks! Those in the sweltering 150% humidity South, East & Midwest summers - there's no help, ya just stick!!

As for my alleged attachment to this 914 - you be the judge:

I'm 56 - & will be 57 in Sept., have been driving since 15.5 (almost 42 years), got my 1st car at 17, have only had 5 cars total EVER (not counting my parents' cars - 6 counting the inherited Honda we just restored for the kids to drive) - AND I STILL HAVE NUMBERS 3, 4 & 5 AS LISTED IN MY SIG BELOW!
Fortunately these were all selected in part because they would be potentially collectible one day, and have turned out to be so. I just prefer to maintain & keep my cars!

Also, my 73 914-2.0 was the first car I owned which I really wanted - as opposed to the $800 68 1.1L Opel 2dr Sedan 1st car, or after it died - taking over the used car payments on my Dad's huge ole 69 Pontiac Ventura 4dr that he "sold" to when they moved from San Diego to Indianapolis (job transfer - not ) - which were just economical transportation during HS & college ...yes - even the Ventura when gas was still $0.27 a gallon!!!!

PLUS - the 914 was always a reliable & strong running car, even according to my German born & Porsche factory trained on 914s mechanic Hans - it was one of the strongest 2Ls he'd seen! ...partially due to his skills I'm sure!! So I know the car & its good & bad points, want to get it back running & looking good (if not perfecto) and do some again!!!!!!!

And then I live in a 1921 Craftsman Bungalow home which we're maintaining, renovating & will be adding to it in the same architectural style.

I just value the quality of old stuff I guess! ...or maybe I'm just cheap having grown up with both sets of Grandparents & a Great-grandmother who were Great Depression "survivors" who impressed frugal values on me - instead of today's "throw away" values? ...or maybe a little of both!?

My thoughts exactly - sort of - on a dealer repaint/color change, except that mine was sold 11/72 & early in the model year & only #424 GA US Legal 2.0 - so maybe still a shortage of the preferred color on the lot, & what dealer wants to lose a sale to a buyer who doesn't want to wait for a factory ordered color.

The one detail area of 4 colors looks like Tan (Sahara Beige maybe), but then the one at the chassis number pic above looks more like the metallic gold which I thought I remembered it originally being for me in 12/75. ...but there aren't 3 prior colors - just 2 L80E & Tan/Gold, cuz I've checked several places.

But then - which is more correct to repaint L80E white or Gold/Tan - or is it a toss up?

If I get anything from Calif. DMV in their microfilm research, &/or I find my original seller docs somewhere, then I can try to track down the original story that way &/or via the selling dealership.

As to their COA - PCNA's records have a lot more problems than just the colors!!!! According to them, my car was first sold in Connecticut almost a year after my CA registration says it was first sold! ...so do I sue them for fraud on double selling it as a new car, or for faulty record keeping under Federal Law & DOT Regulations - or both!!

Has anyone seen a COA for the 2.0s which will actually list which Options & Packages (e.g.: Appearance Group &/or Performance Group) were "included" with the car's sticker price??

Not only I would like to force them to correct the COA errors & add in the missing numbers & dates (PCNA told me they show a 9/72 build date, but not on the COA!? ) - but to also list the full compliment of "included options" on my COA, as they did on the window stickers which I've seen for the period!!!

I bought an early 1973 914s Porsche/PCNA brochure online to help with this COA & restoration issue, which I think was in use during Fall 1972 when mine was sold, and which lists the 2.0 as the 914S (I know that story about the change to 914-2.0 forced by Porsche in Germany). It's the bigger 9" x 14" one with 12 pages, & I'll post the front cover, specs & 2.0 upgrades pages on this & 2 following posts (due to file sizes).

FYI - HERE IS THE SPECS PAGE FROM THAT BROCHURE IN A READABLE FORM

Click to view attachment

...Next Post will show the "upgrades" page for the "914S" (2.0)....

AND THE "914S" FEATURES & UPGRADES PAGE

Click to view attachment


...ahhhh - the poetry of the marketing gurus at PCNA never fails to move me!
...now if they could only get their damn records straight!

...Next Post will show the Front Page Pic - cropped to fit the post file limit - For Identification of Brochure Purposes, you've probably seen it elsewhere on-line, but the pages' text isn't readable - these are....

AND FINALLY - THE TRIMMED DOWN VERSION OF THE COVER SHOT OF THIS 73 914 BROCHURE IN QUESTION

Click to view attachment

Okay, but how does that affect the value of the car post-restoration?

BTW - I keep getting the confusion over a complete strip down to bare body/uni-body as the only ostensibly "true" restoration.

However, in my day - and I AM an old fart now! or nearly so at 56-57 - that was called a "frame up rebuild" or "strip to frame rebuild"!

Whereas, a "restoration" was leaving the car largely assembled - only removing what must be taken off to repair & restore damage &/or to ease the repaint & repair work process, and perhaps stripping the surfaces to be repainted to bare metal if necessary to get a good finish. The latter is what I'll be doing & not for concours.

Back in the 60's I helped my Uncle do a frame-up rebuild on his "barn find" (literally) 58 Vette, so I know the diff!

And when you get into "Antique Car" circles (over 50 years old) - which the 914s soon will be & some 356s are already - it is considered preferable & more valuable to have a well "restored" car with a maximum number of well kept original parts still intact & unmolested - as they say - versus a completely "frame up rebuild" where nothing much is still original from the factory.

These are 2 entirely different processes, and generally recognized within other collector car circles - so why the confusion here at 914world?

Can Pat or some other CWs weigh in here on my apparent ignorance on this terminology regarding 914s?????

Hmmm "not uheard of...". Yep, it is. I've never heard of this scenario in the early 70's. You didn't have to wait more than 2 months for the colors you wanted. Four months if you wanted it paint to sample.

I know of someone who wanted his 914 painted Smyrna Green. Goot it 3 months later.

The lady you metioned Had to pay a fortune to change color. Makes me wonder.
Pat

Tom, I wouldn't get too hung up on the paint colour you choose affecting value; if you plan on doing a concours resto and showing it that's a different story. Sounds like you've got a car you love with real personal history. That's why you ARE going to spend thousands and thousands and thousands (get my drift yet?) to bring it back to where you will be statisfied. A car you plan to keep and enjoy.

paint it the colour you've always wanted; do a good enough job - strip the car to the tub, bare metal and back, everything painted as the factory did - and you'll be rollin' in roses. Paint it Marathon Blue. The value to the average Joe on the street will not be damaged.

Now, if you end up going pink or some wild metal fleck job, yes, the $$$ you'd command at re-sale will be determinded by/if you find someone that shares your taste.

It's your car, your wallet that will bring it back. Get what you want and enjoy.

and man, you type long posts

cheers, m.

Really Pat? You've never heard of dealerships selling off last years model, sometimes at significant savings, come August/September to make room for the new MY rolling in? Wow, it's different down there. Still goes on here every year. Problem is of course, to take advantage of those savings, well you get what they have as far as options, colours etc. It is a sell-off after all. You'd obviously be shocked to talk to body shops who make a nice buck doing colour changes on brand new cars come fall. It's pretty common stuff really for say one of the rich rice burner kids to pick up his brand new whatever, for say $30k, drive it to my brothers shop, pay him another $20-$30k to have him do a complete, then drive it to the tuners shop, drop another $$$$$ to get it the way he wants. THEN he has the car he wanted in the first place.

Crazy? You'd better believe it. Unheard of? Hardly. Paul, my brother, has done it on Jags, Porsches, BMWs, Mercedes . . . people with the dough will pay for what they want. Someone, somewhere is doing it right now.

The only areas left on my old '73 that still showed sunflower yellow was behind the back pad and the floor under the carpet; everything else - trunks, tank area and engine compartment, had been changed to Marathon Blue and I've known that car since the day she drove it home. Go figure.

Pat, Not a Fortune & Not unheard of -

My 8/76 repaint color change to Copper Metallic L96K (#?) - where they obviously pulled the bumpers & did the trunks & door jambs - was only $225.00 thru a group that served the dealers that the local Porsche guy referred me on the sly. I'm sure the dealer pays less in those cases! I'm looking at my invoice.

And I know of at least one person who did an "on the lot" color change in order to get his 2.0 yesterday, back in 1972!

[quote name='Tom_T' date='Apr 22 2009, 05:31 PM' post='1161056']
[quote name='Jasfsmith' post='1160815' date='Apr 22 2009, 06:46 AM']
BTW - I keep getting the confusion over a complete strip down to bare body/uni-body as the only ostensibly "true" restoration.

However, in my day - and I AM an old fart now! or nearly so at 56-57 - that was called a "frame up rebuild" or "strip to frame rebuild"!

Whereas, a "restoration" was leaving the car largely assembled - only removing what must be taken off to repair & restore damage &/or to ease the repaint & repair work process, and perhaps stripping the surfaces to be repainted to bare metal if necessary to get a good finish. The latter is what I'll be doing & not for concours.

Back in the 60's I helped my Uncle do a frame-up rebuild on his "barn find" (literally) 58 Vette, so I know the diff!

And when you get into "Antique Car" circles (over 50 years old) - which the 914s soon will be & some 356s are already - it is considered preferable & more valuable to have a well "restored" car with a maximum number of well kept original parts still intact & unmolested - as they say - versus a completely "frame up rebuild" where nothing much is still original from the factory.

These are 2 entirely different processes, and generally recognized within other collector car circles - so why the confusion here at 914world?

Can Pat or some other CWs weigh in here on my apparent ignorance on this terminology regarding 914s?????
[/quote]

Pat - how about this terminology question - so's I stop corn-fusing everybody with wut I mean!? Am I doing a "Restoration" or wut?????

I thot you'd like that "simple post"!

Geez - I'm bored & too much time on my hands! ...can you tell I'm laid up sick in bed!? ...let me out!!!!!!

Yup - I talks a lot too!? Drives the wife crazy!

....and if I split them up into little bitty ones, I'd probably be a 4-5 box "expert" poster rank, like the rest of you!? ......hmmmm

...am I gettin' points for this teacher?

Yeah - same here in SoCal. ....and "Back in the Day" it also happened early in the model year with "new releases" such as with the 240Z, the 914's various models, 912E re-release, 911S, 930 Turbos, etc., etc.! Of course we're notoriously car crazy bunch out here on the "Left Coast"!!!!

[quote name='MDG' date='Apr 22 2009, 06:10 PM' post='1161090']
[quote name='Pat Garvey' post='1161066' date='Apr 22 2009, 08:45 PM']
It's pretty common stuff really for say one of the rich rice burner kids to pick up his brand new whatever, for say $30k, drive it to my brothers shop, pay him another $20-$30k to have him do a complete, then drive it to the tuners shop, drop another $$$$$ to get it the way he wants. THEN he has the car he wanted in the first place.

Crazy? You'd better believe it.
[/quote]
...I don't understand why they don't just but a good Porsche or Bmr or something with that $60-100k!?

[quote name='Tom_T' date='Apr 22 2009, 06:45 PM' post='1161139']
[quote name='MDG' date='Apr 22 2009, 06:10 PM' post='1161090']
[quote name='Pat Garvey' post='1161066' date='Apr 22 2009, 08:45 PM']
It's pretty common stuff really for say one of the rich rice burner kids to pick up his brand new whatever, for say $30k, drive it to my brothers shop, pay him another $20-$30k to have him do a complete, then drive it to the tuners shop, drop another $$$$$ to get it the way he wants. THEN he has the car he wanted in the first place.

Crazy? You'd better believe it.
[/quote]
...I don't understand why they don't just but a good Porsche or Bmr or something with that $60-100k!?
[/quote]

It's because the car will be the 'sex'. If I had money, I would have gotten a brand new Subaru STI or Evo and modded it to be an even faster and cleaner car

basically, to each his own


as for the car, I didnt read the entire text, but from what I gathered, paint the car in the color you want. If its done clean it will show. It may not have the same value as the concours car, but its always about personal preference. The blue will look good (though a white 914 is also a very attractive car in my opinion)


as for the interior, not sure if you mentioned this, but are you positive its original? It could have been black (not sure if the white ivory had a black interior) or the COA is off.

I agree on the Light Ivory. White cars have never been my favourite however Light Ivory is one of the nicest whites out there. My '76 2.2 six conversion is Light Ivory and it's been done to look like a factory six. The contrast of the various chrome bits and the black and silver Fuchs plays beautifully with the black roof, bumper strips and sail panel etc. . . . looks sharp. Gives the car an elegant look in my opinion.

Lots of people do it and people with money to burn do it without hesitation. To that mind-set it's no different than buying a suit or sport jacket and then taking it to a tailor to make it just the way you want. I don't own a suit or jacket that hasn't been tailored to me.

However that wasn't the case with my 914 although the woman (read: her husband) could certainly afford it; the first 300SL Gullwing I ever saw was his.

She bought an end of the year '73 - and couldn't get the colour she wanted without ordering a new '74. The car in question was a fully optioned 2.0 and she loved it so she bought it. And then had it painted the colour she liked best. And I'll tell you, the re-paint was perfect. No idea if it was done at the dealer (doubtful) or she took it to a shop. Whoever did it knew what they were doing.

[quote name='MDG' date='Apr 24 2009, 04:04 PM' post='1161852']


as for the car, I didnt read the entire text, but from what I gathered, paint the car in the color you want. If its done clean it will show. It may not have the same value as the concours car, but its always about personal preference. The blue will look good (though a white 914 is also a very attractive car in my opinion)


as for the interior, not sure if you mentioned this, but are you positive its original? It could have been black (not sure if the white ivory had a black interior) or the COA is off.
[/quote]

...and....

I agree on the Light Ivory. White cars have never been my favourite however Light Ivory is one of the nicest whites out there. My '76 2.2 six conversion is Light Ivory and it's been done to look like a factory six. The contrast of the various chrome bits and the black and silver Fuchs plays beautifully with the black roof, bumper strips and sail panel etc. . . . looks sharp. Gives the car an elegant look in my opinion.
[/quote]

I've seen L80E's (white) with the full range of black, tan & brown interiors before over the years, and even on online as white/white - which was a bit too much WHITE for me!!!!

The tan interior is & always was TAN in my car - it's the COA that's off & their records are completely with their alleged 1st sale 9/73 in Conn. vs. my CA-DMV for 11/9/72!!!! Doesn't give me much faith in their records, so I'm in the process of documenting everything & will send it to PCNA & request them to correct both the COA & their data files to show proper & accurate info for this car!

Yes - I've seen some very clean & slick looking light ivory's, so I'm sure I could live with it back to the L80E (at least I confirmed that one under the floor mats - that's "1" for PCNA's COA & "2" for engine number!), unless it's more correct to do it back to the Tan/Gold - IF that was a buyer/dealer color change
- - - - ANYONE WITH KNOWLEDGE ON WHAT'S MORE CORRECT???

I even put a white 74 L80E on my desktop, just to get me used to it! ...I suppose I could have it black-over-charcoal double hand pin-striped along the fender line & still be CW correct.....

Light Ivory with tan interior is fab man!!

Saw a brand new Cayman at the dealership in Cream White - not sure if that's a new colour but I haven't seen it before - it's similar to Light Ivory, maybe a bit more yellow in it. This car had tan leather and wow it looked good.

Tom here is a shot of my old 75 2.0 in light ivory.
Click to view attachment

Here is a nice gold colored car.

Click to view attachment

....yours wuz , but did you drive it much? ....man I could eat off that!

This is the one I put on my laptop screen to pump me up:

Click to view attachment

^ It's really a 74 2L, but looks the same as a 73 from the front & has the same type of blue with yellow digits CA plates as mine!



And then there was this I came across from a Motor Trend article online from last year, as a possible 914 II -



..hopefully they'll make it less rust prone!?

Thanx - I think I saved this one too, or another similar - for an example of gold.

I'm hoping I get the selling dealer &/or original buyer form an info request which I put into Calif. DMV to search their microfilm records, then maybe I can run down the true color history & "missing" 2.0 appearance group features from when I bought it - the 2.0 Alloys were not on it - replaced by Rivieras, fog lights cut off & switch removed, center console & 3 gauges gone - everything else was there!

Here's another version of that 914 II concept from MT

Click to view attachment

I prefer the other one, as it's closer to the 914 look, than whatever this one is??? ...fun to ponder a return anyway!

If done well, I'm sure it will look good.

Now I just need to get PCNA to correct their dang COA & data records! ...maybe I should just write it for them!?

Heck, I'm ending up having to send them pix to document everything for them to put it!

I even had to send them a pic of my engine number as a GA, since their "half-fast" records only show the 6 digits with no engine code! ...so tell me, how do they then tell whether a 2.0 specific recall applied to a certain vehicle!?

Click to view attachment

Is that a "true 6" from 70-72, or your conversion? Veeeeeeeeeery nice, whichever!
What airport is that? ...are you also a pilot?

Alright, I think I'm okay now with L80E - if that turns out to be the proper color to restore to - vs. the Gold???

"Dr. George" at AA also strongly recommended L80E to me before.

Any opinions on whether it is more correct to go to the factory L80E - or to the Dealer repaint as a new buyer request - IF that's what it turns out to be???

If the L80E is the most correct anyway, then I can research that color history later at my leisure, when I get the DMV research & as I have more time to run down past owner(s) &/or the dealership. I think that's the only way that I'll ever be able to get that story straight, and for the "missing" options!

Tom, that is a shot of a factory six that was for sale a year or so ago. Since the conversion my '76 mimics that but, alas, when I went to post a shot I realized I have none on this computer. I'll download some this weekend and post.

If the car came from the factory as L80E, that would be "correct" just as L13K was for my old '73. A re-paint, done within hours of purchase or years later, is still a re-paint. I have not noticed if you ever posted the paint code stamped on the Karmann plate in the front drivers door jamb? It will have the chassis number as well as the factory applied paint code.

and no, I am not a pilot.

m.

Thanx for the 6 clarification & on "wut to go back to" Mike.

The COA which I posted in a prior on this (see below), shows the wrong interior color (black not my tan), & also shows "Light Ivory/11" - which I can visually confirm under the floor pads & other areas never over-painted (see detail pic below) - so I'm pretty sure about at least that being correct on the COA (as is the GA engine # & VIN).

Unfortunately, because my 914 is still up on blocks at the lift points & "blocked-in" by my daughter-in-college's furniture/boxes, I cannot get the driver door open to see the Karman plate - let alone get it off the blocks & roll 'er out for any overall inspection nor to start work. First task once I can get up, about & to it - is to remedy that with a new storage shed & clear out the other 1/2 of the garage!

Also - someone else here had asked earlier if the interior color could've been changed from a factory, but NO - where I pulled up the adhesived carpet at the front of the passenger footwell to check for rust damage, it pulled off some of the white paint - clearly indicating that it was the original factory applied adhesive, & similarly with some of the tan leatherette at at back wall. Besides, a full interior change-over would've been very time consuming & probably more so, & would've cost much more than just the repaint alone. It's just PCNA's lousy records!!!!

BTW - I'm a long out of current private pilot, & thought that you might be too - not necessarily a pro or military pilot. In HS during the 60's I did want to be a Navy Fighter Pilot, but eyeglasses in those pre-contacts & pre-lasik days kept me out of it - despite their need during Vietnam! I paid to get my own private license years later in the late `70's, just to fulfill that desire. But then a growing family's time & budget demands kept me from keeping that up, as well as getting around to the 914!

Both were set aside in 85, & hopefully both interests can be renewed now - 914 1st!!!!


DETAIL AT PASSENGER SIDE OF OE TAN SEAT, TAN LOOP/PILE CARPET & L80E/11 "LIGHT IVORY" FLOOR PAN (Black is tar where paint worn off):

Click to view attachment


DETAIL OF INITIAL COA WITH INTERIOR COLOR INFO & MISSING INFO & OPTIONS:

Click to view attachment


....PCNA's shoddy Records!

Tom, I think the black interior on the COA is just a mistake on their part along with the Porsche '11' code for the paint. As you seem to have found evidence of Light Ivory being the original layer of paint, my bet is when you can get to the car you'll find L80E stamped on the plate.


mike