Deletted

Looks good, Bill. Are you gonna post some pix of an installed set up soon ?

Thanks - I'll be posting the intalled pictures sometime next week

Bill

Here is a picture of the installation. I am now working on the intallation instructions. Should be ready next week.

What are the benefits over the Hex bar linkage?

How does the throttle cable hook in?

Interested.

Zach

The throttle cable is attached to the fitting that is resting on the block. The cable is held in place by an allen screw.

The difference between the hex bar and bell crank is the ware point is on two bearings located in the block. There is little to no chance of hang up of the throttle. The hex bar problem is that it wares on the balls that bar rides on. The raceways become eccentric (SP?) and the throttle hangs up.

Very clean set up Bill ... it'll be on my list for when I build up the 2056


Looks like you've been keeping busy ... you missed the Rt66 gathering this year

My wife had other plans for me that weekend - we had out of town guests. So the keep the home life happy I was the proper host. What we do to keep the wives happy.

Bill

So this improves ware, but does not improve geting the dual carbs properly balanced against each other?

Zach

Side-to-side balancing should be done with the linkages disconnected anyway.

It appears that the rods are threaded on both ends - so you should be able to fine-adjust as needed

The balancing is done on the carb it self. You need a synchro meter to measure the air going into each carb. However if the hex bar linkage is worn the carbs will not be in synch. I hope this answers your question.

Bill

The link rods have left and right hand threads for fine adjustment of the linkage only not the carbs.

Bill Shaffer

Looks like a nice piece Bill! Looks very well made.

I know with 911 or 914-6 carbs you often must bend the linkage arms to get the proper geometry. That is, the pull rods are exactly the same length but the carbs are not both on the idle stops, so you've got to loosen the linkage brackets and re-position, and then bend if that doesn't work. Ccould this be a problem with this kind of set up and since you go from the bell crank right to the carb? I guess you've got to get whatever mechanical adjustment you need on the carb?

I've always wondered about thermal expansion of the engine with a center pull bell crank linkage, does the engine expand enough when hot to take slack out of the linkage? I haven't ever used a center bell crank type of linkage.

I have not experienced or know any problem with a bell crank from thermal expansion.

Bill

I'll buy one of those. E-mail sent. -Mike

I have an early centermount linkage setup, and I have had to add a helper return spring,which is mounted to the trunk firewall.(this is for a 4 cylinder setup).....could you provide a fitting to accomplish this?...what you have looks just great, but I notice this is for a 6 cylinder engine setup,might there be a few unique differences in linkage length,and pivot point arm offsets to accomodate the carburators offsets?....the quality of your work looks great.

Thank you. My engine is a 2056 4cly. with Jenvey throttle bodies. I have not found a need for a "helper spring" with my set up. Therefore, I don't have a pick-up for a return spring at this time.

Bill

Nice... I will be watching this. How soon will they be available or are they now?

The Sidewinder is available now. I have assembled units ready to ship.

Bill

What are you using for a throttle cable bracket? Love the look of this thing by the way...

Pricing please.

Rich

Yes I am. The bracket also has the mass air and engine coolant (air) sensors. I am running a Emerald M3D ECU and Jenvey throttle bodies. I'll take a picture in the morning.

The shipped price is $175.00.

here is the picture of my throttle cable bracket. For a caburators a simple 2"x2" aluminum angle would do the job.