I have a 1976 914 2.0 that I'm trying to get the alternator out to have it rebuilt. I've used the information of this site along with Pelican and the factory repair manuals. The only place that says you have to remove the left heat exchanger is the factory manual. At the very least there is one section of J shaped exhaust header towards the front held by three bolts through the pipe flanges that has tin around it that looks like it might have to be removed in order to drop the alternator out from the bottom. I've managed to remove all the tin screws, nuts and bolts and stopped at this point because there doesn't seem to be a way to get the alternator completely out without removing this pipe. Am I headed in the right direction? I have pictures of the piece if it would help to post them.

Dave

Separate and remove that pipe. DO NOT remove the manifold from the heads!

The Cap'n

No I wasn't going to remove the manifold from the heads, just the J pipe from the manifold at the flange (3 bolts and nuts). Thanks. The bolts are crusty so I'm soaking them with penetrating oil overnight.

3 hours?? You could have dropped the motor and put it back in by now!

I don't do it for a living and there's no "pit stop" urgency. I take my time and make sure not to damage anything on the car. When I come to a seemingly insurmountable problem, I stop and pose the questions I have to the experts on this forum to get me through.

Dave

Hey Dave, the J needs to come out, hell every thing execpt the header needs to come out. I've done it in 45 minutes but thats because I had to do it 4 times to get the wireing correct. I was screwed by a loom. Check my blog, the long screw drivers are for the boot.

The 914/4 Alternator Removal & Replacement By McMark on 914world makes no mention of all the stuff you have to remove to drop the alternator down. In the pictures it looks like the car has no heater boxes. Maybe someone can contact McMark to update the procedure to add these additional steps. Being a first timer, I was confused by this lack of information.

Someone here once said they changed the alt out on the side of the road. If the car had heat, I can't see how that is possible. Its a damn tight fit, with a lot of wiggling, and my car has no heat. Still took me about 45 minutes to get it down the first time.

Lay on something comfortable looking up at the alternator (with a light) and visualize the path it needs to come down. Remove everything in that path. And when you do finally wiggle it free, bear in mind that it is heavy and directly above your brain pan.

Zach

Thanks Zach (and everyone).
I just didn't want to remove anything that I didn't have to and run the risk of breaking something for no reason. Makes sense to just look up and clear a path.

Now if this was a VW Bus, the alternator would be staring you right in the face. Ah, the price we pay for mid engine glory!

Dave

The problem is the 75/76 heater/exhaust system. My procedure is applicable to probably 90%+ of the people on the board.

I'll put a note at the top that says, "Not applicable for stock 75/76 exhaust systems."

If you can, backdating that exhaust system can help your car run cooler and maybe even pick up a couple HP. But check your local SMOG requirements first.

Larry (914SVO) and I R/R one on Saturday in about 3 hours.

Mistake ,904SVO

It's actually a lot more difficult in a bus, as the HEs pose a far bigger problem. BTDT, lots of times. BTW, the failure rate is much higher for bus alternators, probably because of the proximity of the muffler. The Cap'n

And I agree with McMark--the main problem you're describing is due to the 75-76 heat exchangers. On my 74, it came out the bottom just as described in the Pelican article.

Took me a long time to do it the first time, but since I kept leaving important bits out I wound up able to do the whole process pretty quickly...

--DD

I'm glad that all of you concur that my difficulty is due to the unique heater box system found in the '75 and '75 model year. Midway through the project I though I was losing it. I read the procedure over and over and could not see how that thing would come out from the bottom.

Other than trying to loosen the J pipe's rusty bolts, I should be able to proceed. I'll post my progress as it unfolds.

Dave

Tonight I finally got the alternator out! I can confirm that the factory repair manuals are correct; for model years 1975 and 1976 the entire driver's side heater box must be removed to be able to drop the alternator from the bottom.

Yesterday I put the rebuilt alternator back in the car. Started her up and no red light on the dash and the volt meter no longer jumps all over the place. I asked the guy who did the rebuilding and he said the diodes were bad along with the bearings.

I must say this job ranks as one of the worst service procedures I've ever performed myself. Can't see anything, hard to reach bolts/nuts, under the car, over the car etc. I know what not to do next time, which would save a bunch of time. I was planning on replacing the belts, but I couldn't figure out how to remove the air pump bracket to get the belt off. I looked in all the service manuals I have and they list nothing for a 1976 914. I will post this question as a separate thread.

Anyway, thanks to all for your help on this project. Anyone with a 1975 -76 914 that has to remove the alternator can PM me with any question they have. There are many items that have to be removed that are not on the earlier cars.

Dave

Just removed the alternator from my friend's '75. Removed 2 smaller tins by/at the alternator and the j pipe but the horrible HE did not have to be come off.

Don't worry, there are much worse service procedures on the 914 than replacing the alternator that you'll probably have to do at some point.

Hay Dave: The beauty of this is think how easy it will be next time.

Also you can help a 914 buddie and look like a genius!!!

We all have tails like this to tell. Glad all is well now.

Dave

I have been known to say about these cars: "anything more invasive than an oil change and you might as well just drop the engine".

My cars have always had carbs, so I am a bit prejudiced when I say I could drop the engine in one hour by myself with nothing but jackstands and a floor-jack.

I once dropped an engine, swapped cylinder shims and had the engine back in same day in my driveway (back when I was young muscular and stupid ;-)

Stu

Hmm, i do not have a tail dave.