I have some nicks and cuts in my sealing surface for the front tranny seal. Has anyone had any luck fixing these? Will the seal cover the problem areas? I am looking for any suggestions I can get.

ps - Do NOT drill into the seal to remove it...

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You could apply a good sealant to the area and let it dry a little. Then add more sealant to the outer edge of the seal and pop it in. I use Hondabond, excellent quality (obviously) made by Honda. About $10-15 for a tube of it.

some one here has a case i'm sure you could pick up cheap as the insides are the expensive items and you don't need them.....

Will it hold up to the heat and the oil? Does it get hard like JB Weld or does it stay soft? Maybe 2 approaches? Maybe JB Weld for the holes and then use the hondabond around the outside to seal?

Never used hondabond. = )

Thanks for the info.

Eric

I suggest you VERY CAREFULLY remove the raised portion of the gouged metal and fill the cuts with JB Weld. Do not use the quick drying variety. Let it dry 24 hours and sand it smooth. Touch it up as necessary to get a good fill and let that dry before again sanding. A thin application of Hylomar or Yamabond (or Hondabond?) to the seal before installing the seal should take care of the problem. Vanagon head gasket sealant would work, too, but it dries in the open tube in a couple of weeks, so it's hard to come by. You CANNOT just replace the tranny case without having the ring and pinion reset, something that takes a NLA special tool and a LOT of knowledge. Good luck. The Cap'n

Good idea about the JB.

Hondabond is still pliable when dry but probably twice as hard as the orange permatex stuff. I sincerely doubt you will have any leaks with it. As far as jb weld, I havent had really good luck with it. It seems to be susceptible to oil over time and separates from the sealing surface.

Really, you do know to clean the surface first before applying. I and others I know have used it with Great success.

With good prep and plenty of curing time, JB Weld works pretty well. It's a recommended fix for pitting in BMW heads, and I use it for the samp purpose in Vanagon Waterboxer heads. The alternative here is to replace the tranny or at least the case, both jobs being expensive. The orange Loctite/Permatex stuff is anaerobic, meaning it cures ONLY when it's NOT exposed to air, as in metal-to-metal bonding. The Cap'n

That is just really a lip to position the seal correctly. A sealant on the inside part of the tranny where the seal rides will seal it plenty good. I wouldn't blow this experience off but it's not a serious damage to the case. Why would you think a drill is a good tool to remove a seal?

There is another article posted here that says to drill it, put a screw through it and then pull it out. Bleh. Wont drill again.

Thanks for the info.

ERic

Thanks for the step by step instructions. I have gone ahead and cleaned the surface, filed it down and put my first fill of JBWeld in place. Once its dry (Monday at 10am) I will sand it down until its smooth.

Here are more photos. I figure that if we can put up a crap load of photos it might save someone the headache of having to take this extra time to fix something that wasnt broken. = )

Eric

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Here it is with JBWeld in place. I am in the drying stage now.

Eric

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Someone mentioned that since the flywheel has been surfaced a couple times and is lower that I should add a washer to the BALL nut. Is this TRUE - REAL Advice?

Thanks.

Eric

Yes, but I saw pic's of your F/W, it sure wouldn't hurt to replace it. Put a WTD in the classifieds for a GOOD used F/W if money is an issue.

Before that epoxy sets up hard I would take a single edge razor blade and cut all that excess epoxy out of there or you will have a hell of a time once it's set.

To set the amount of ball shims, see my post in THIS THREAD

What do you suggest to seal the threads? Can you use that white tape or ??

Thanks again.

Eric