Well, here is a link to my latest write-up where I show how to rebuild a steering rack and add a turbo tie rod kit.

My Webpage

I know that there is an equal write-up on the Pelican board.

Let me know what you all think.

It's long and there are a lot of photos (god bless digital cameras)

Wes V

Ok nice write up. I have a question. If you use a smaller od washer on the turbo tie rod ends then you could use a normal thickness wrench yes? Is the big od washer bigger to keep the boot on or just a big washer so you gotta by the extra wrench for a almost one time job?

Charliew;

I honestly don't know, and in doing research never found an verifiable comment, as to if the washer is intended as a bump stop.

The original "spanner wrench" nut would serve that function.

The bellows boot has nothing to do with it. There is a collar further down the turbo arm that serves as a seat for the bellows.

I just think it's prudent to have it.

If you don't want to buy that wrench (I found a part number on it and will do a cost search latter today) there are two options that come to mind.


You could borrow one. If you don't know somebody that has one, go by a GOOD bicyle shop and ask if they will let you use theirs.


You could also buy a "throw-away" wrench and grind down the sides to fit. It's ugly, but I've done it in the past.

Wes

Dang, dang, dang;

When I did the turbo tie rod install, I used a cone wrench that I had around from my bicycle days. It's a 32mm / 36mm cone wrench. ("wrench force" model 59531)

Now the dumb part;

I don't remember if the end used was 32mm or 36mm.

Can somebody that has a Lemforder Turbo tie rod sitting around tell me if it's 32mm or 36mm. Please don't make me take the bellows off to check.

The reason I need to know is because I did a google search for "32mm cone wrench" and found them at Amazon used for around $5.00, however the other end was 15mm. (originally purchased through Snap-On)


Wes

Nice, but two criticisms:

1. Why didn't you use the thick steering stop/spacer supplied with the kit? Porsche used it for a reason! It sets the tie rod adj at mid point on the threads. You have to adj the rods with less thread engagement with your washer.

2. Why cobble the rubber coupler? The real part is avaliable at the dealer.

Nice write up.

If someone is doing this and is not replacing the needle bearing, I would make sure to measure the needles before assembly. I believe the diameters are not all the same! Half of them will be a bit smaller. Maybe only a thousandth or two. If I am correct, then the needles must be installed in an alternating state. This reduces the rotational resistance. Failure to do this will create a stiffer bearing that will fail prematurely.

That idea is too strange, but very possible!

Wes

1. As stated in the write-up, prior to taking the rack apart, I measured the distance from ball joint to ball joint (with the arms held straight out). If you assume that it was aligned correctly (in my case that was a reasonable assumption), then the finished installation should be the same measurement. I temporarly assembled everything (with the ball joints screwed in all the way) and with the kit's thick washers I could just barely make that measurement. In other words, I was at the limit as to how close I could put the ball joints. By using the thinner washer, I have the ability to move the ball joints inward more. I'm not telling everybody to do this, but just that it works best in my case.

2. The reason for wanting a shorter steering coupler is due to raising the rack with a "bump steer" kit. The kit moves the rack upward, and using a thinner bushing compensates for this. As stated in the write-up, there are other ways of doing this and some of them may be better than what I did. I just wanted it done and I feel the solution was safe and easy. (I like the hockey puck idea)

Wes

Not so strange really.

Imagine the bearing laid out flat. Looking at the rollers from the end. The inner race at the bottom and the outer race on top. Rollers are touching the top and the bottom races and each roller is in contact with each other. As the bearing rotates, the top will go say to the right. This means the rollers rotate clockwise. If you draw this out you will see that where the rollers touch, the adjacent roller is rotating the in the wrong direction. As the right side of the roller rotates down, the back side rotates up causing a rubbing action with the roller behind it. If every other roller is smaller, than the smaller roller will not contact one of the races. This will cause the roller to rotate counter clockwise. Instead of rubbing, the rollers help each other rotate. This is a substantial reduction in friction. A bearing with a cage does not have this problem because the cage keeps them separate.

That does make sense and I understand what you are saying.

When I was playing with my rack (damn that sounds strange), The bearings came out (that's how I know there were 26 of them) and before buying new bearings I re-installed them (in a bed of grease).

If they are different diameters, you sure wouldn't know it by touch or just by looking at them.

Wes

I've got a request;


When I installed the tie rod kit, I used a cone wrench that I had around the garage (from my bicycle days). It has a 32mm end and a 36mm end.

Now comes the "doh" part of this;

I don't remember if I used the 32mm end or the 36mm end. In trying to post up a source for a similar wrench, I need to know which one it was.

So; does anybody know the required wrench size for a Lemforder "turbo" tie rod kit?



Wes

I stated earlier they may be smaller by a thou or 2. The difference can be as small as a few tenths

32mm, less than 5mm thick.

Thanks! I didn't want to post up the wrong size.

Wes