Preparing to install the CFR 3/8" SS fuel line in my carbed '73. I will only be installing the single line for the carbs, so what is the best way to terminate the return line nipple coming off the gas tank? Do I tie both nipples together with a "Y" or "T" connector, or is it best to just block off the return nipple? Either way, what hardware works best?

I blocked my extra one with a rubber terminating nipple, tightened with a metal clamp.

You'd best make plans to inspect that "rubber terminating nipple" on a regular basis, as many types of rubber don't do well with modern fuels. I would have used a piece of 7.5mm fuel hose, 2 FI hose clamps, and a piece of 8mm round stock. The Cap'n

will do... 3 years since I did that, no leak yet. it's supposed to be a fuel terminator, I got it from flaps...

the first one tho was just a generic rubber one, and it did rot almost immediately... the fuel broke it down.

The salesman at the FLAPS, were his lips moving? You know the rest .......

The Cap'n

I cut the side out of an empty qurt oil container, its made from hdpe which resists hydrocarbons. remove the large nut that retains the nipple and use the backside as a template and cut a piece of hdpe and put it between the tank and nipple and tighten the nut back on. It has been OK for the last two years with no leak.

I thought over the years someone may have found a 2 in 1 out fuel filter that would work well to tie both nipples into one.

I may not be catching this properly, but, if you mean that you want to tie the return line to the feed line, I'd say don't do it. Just plug the return line off. You'll suck all the crud from your tank in to your filter and carbs. There is a screen on the feed line.
Rich.

I think that I would terminate it in an AN-fitting with a cap. Cheap to do, and it looks professional! I like the safety of this also!!!!

My .02 cents...

KP

Just installed my SS line from Chris. Not difficult, but get the rear of the car high enough before you start. Harder part was getting the pump lines the right length under the tank, capped off the return just like the cap'n said - that was the easiest part.

Was this done with the motor still in ?

No need to remove the engine. With the old lines out the stainless ones take only minutes to install. Some people remove the r/r wheel for clearance when starting the angled front part of the line into the chassis.

Yes, and relatively easy - removing right wheel makes it easier - took about 15 minutes to get installed without an assistant, rmember to use air to blow out the line after install, i'll guarantee the end cap will fall off and it will pick up crud from the tiunnel.