Hi,

Have you had the pleasure of replacing the front shifter bushings on a Eurovan?
1993 with a sideways 5 cylinder, stick shift.

If so...HOW?
I am challenged with how to get my fat ass hands in there.
I am starting to think about dropping the motor...

Cant get there from above...cant get there from below.

If there is an easier way, please enlighten me.

Rich

I did them on my eurovan in about 20 minutes. I have pretty big hands too, and it was a pain in the ass, with some pretty scraped hands, but not too tough in the end.

I did the rear one..simple to get to.
I did the round ball one that is on the outside...no issue reaching from below.

I need to replace the cup bushing that is on the inside....
That one is near impossible to touch with extended fingers...

Rich

Ha! The old "you can see it or you can touch it, but not at the same time" trick. I've done them, and have the scars to prove it. If it's the one I think it is, you have to remove the bracket and do the bushing in a press or vise, and replace the ball ends on the cross shaft. Seriously, my forearms are covered with scars from doing jobs like this one. I don't have one here to look at, so I'm looking at the book, and I don't really remember the job, other than is was probably about as difficult as changing all those stupid water lines and fittings ...........

The Cap'n

yes, its the one that the bracket needs to come out and press in the bushing...

Now,,,there is a hard line (water line) right on top of this thing...1/2 inch away..
Here is what I am guessing.
Remove the linkage pieces from underneath...take off the back and then pull out the front...
Then I am hoping that from the wheel well I can get a socket in there to remove the bracket...

The major thought I am thinking is to drop the motor/trans a few inches to reach it better...can I do that, or is there a way to get in there???

I have to go to the dealer soon to get the parts (shipped from Germany)

RIch

You probably wouldn't believe how many wrenches, sockets, and extensions I have. I can tell you that I didn't lower or remove the drivetrain for this job, and I've become pretty inventive when it comes to removing difficult to see/access fasteners. I replaced the starter in a Boxster yesterday, and had most of the 15mm stuff out of the toolbox and on the fender cover, as well as a hammer and a long thin drift, all for the lower mounting bolt. The Cap'n

I have most of the same tools...for the same reason
So, thanks for the boost...if you can do it with the motor in place...I will get it done.

Mirrors...

Someday I want one of the little fiber optic cameras...that would be cool.

Rich

I try to stick to the air cooled Porsches as much as possible. They don't gut you. VW's and BMW's will have you leaving entrails all over the shop floor. Vultures will come in and clean it up later like an African Savannah kill site.
You won't care because you will be a drooling mental case by that time just from trying to figure out who in the hell could have thought that they designed it properly.

This is why I'm an engineer, so I can torture people like you! Buwahahaha.

That's not why! You're an engineer 'cause you like pocket protectors as a fashion accessory .............

The Cap'n, Arrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhh!

Show me a STOCK aircooled vehicle that can tow a car, and still get out of its own way...by that I mean not a 4 cylinder bus...those cant tow...
I have seen people tow with them...not what I want...way to slow.

I have considered doing this (pic) , obviously a custom body, but even cooler is the 911 drivetrain that was put into the rear...


Rich

You got the wrong year VW van......

86-91 Vanagons are pretty much a piece of cake to work on.....

Flat opposed 4 is easily accessable from the top and the bottom, and you can remove the heads without removing the engine. The shift mechanism bushings are unbelievably easy, the clutch can be replaced without pulling the engine and the vehicle is so high up that fat Ken fits underneath without the need for a jack....

On the down side are a 3rd and 4th gear that break because an engineer wannabe put a sharp cornered notch in the gears, coolant leaks etch into the heads, and there are about 800 rubber hoses that need replacing periodically...

They made the heads easy to remove so you could change out the head gasket every 3000 miles.

Rich

I've done the heads once since 1986...

The fix was easy. JB weld and aircraft grade zinc chromate primer are your friends to fix the pits, and new gaskets seal the fix.....

BTW, I meant working on them. You can own whatever you want, even a mail order bride, I just don't want to work on it.

You might also want to check the Yahoo Eurovan group, someone might have some explanation on how to do it easier there. Or just sell the van, and buy a 2001 or later with the 24v VR6.

OK....that sucked.
The hardest part was pressing the bushing into the other bushing while under the car, not able to see, using a 3 foot bar...lots of pressure and just the right angle....dang..that took a few tries.

the rest of it was take a look...then put my hands in there to do it...while just closing my eyes (I could not look and work in the same area)

It shifts like new now...sweet.

Rich