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RiqueMar
I think I found a new way to update seats, but then again, I'm new, so I could just think this is a new way. I started out with my car (70') and the parts car (75)

Basically, the idea is simple. Instead of taking the mounts off the pan of the parts car (this involves taking out the spot welds and aligning everything, which I didnt want to do because I had already undercoated my interior) I cut the little hinges out. Then, I executed a little sanding to get all the excess metal off so that it is a simple hinge.

After grinding down the screws on the passenger side of the 70, I welded the new hinges along with a 1/8' plate underneath, to compensate for height.


Pictures to come.
SirAndy
Actually, if you don't care about the height adjustment, the later seatrails will bolt right into a early car.

I've done it on my car ...
popcorn[1].gif Andy
MikeSpraggi
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 17 2009, 10:34 PM) *

Actually, if you don't care about the height adjustment, the later seatrails will bolt right into a early car.

I've done it on my car ...
popcorn[1].gif Andy



Pictures Please. I wanna play too!
jt914-6
What about the back interior pad? Are you going to have to "update" that too???? Can't see how a "updated" passenger seat will fit with an "old" back interior pad....
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Jun 18 2009, 07:41 AM) *

What about the back interior pad? Are you going to have to "update" that too???? Can't see how a "updated" passenger seat will fit with an "old" back interior pad....



Take the back pad out of the donor car.

Zach
RiqueMar
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jun 18 2009, 08:16 AM) *

QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Jun 18 2009, 07:41 AM) *

What about the back interior pad? Are you going to have to "update" that too???? Can't see how a "updated" passenger seat will fit with an "old" back interior pad....



Take the back pad out of the donor car.

Zach


Yes, of course, I need a back interior pad, just as I need a new seat, both of which I have. My main concern when doing this was that I would ruin the interior coating that I just put in my car (see my progress thread).

Pictures to come momentarily... type.gif
RiqueMar
Ok, so as I said, I didnt want to deal with all the spot welding, and take of the undercoating I already did, so I cut the hinges as so....
IPB Image
RiqueMar
Then, using an air grinder, I cut down these two posts as to make a level surface to mount the hinge....
IPB Image
RiqueMar
Before I welded the hinge to the old base, I added approx. 1/8' of material to compensate for height and make is level with the drivers side.
IPB Image
RiqueMar
I also needed to do the drivers left base, as this was broken before I bought the car.

Some welding pictures...

IPB Image
IPB Image
RiqueMar
When all is said and done, all the backs of the hinges should be the same distance from the bottom of the back wall.

IPB Image


RiqueMar
The finished new floor! Of course, I need to add the front piece, but that will be relatively easier, atleast I think so.


IPB Image
RiqueMar
So what do you guys think? From my POV, I think it works and was a bit easier that taking off the whole bases of a donor car. Also, I welded the hell out of it incase of a crash.

But seriously, I need to know what others think, because I'm new to everything having to do with cars.
SirAndy
QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jun 18 2009, 08:40 AM) *

But seriously, I need to know what others think, because I'm new to everything having to do with cars.

Looks good! thumb3d.gif


I just bolted down the seatrail to one of the studs on the floor and in the front on to the crossmember, which has two threaded holes that line up with the rails.

Obviously, my solutions does not give you any height adjustment as i didn't use the hinges. But the seat slides forward/backward just fine.

And no, i don't run a backpad.
shades.gif Andy
SirAndy
I had to shave the top of the front bolts a bit so they would not hit the sliding part of the rail ... popcorn[1].gif
ChrisFoley
Here's a pic of the bolt-in kit I developed in the mid '80s.
RiqueMar
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 18 2009, 10:04 AM) *


Looks good! thumb3d.gif




Thanks, that's relieving for me to hear.
MikeSpraggi
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jun 18 2009, 11:09 AM) *

Here's a pic of the bolt-in kit I developed in the mid '80s.


Are your bolt-in kits still available?
McMark
Looks good. Lotsa ways to skin that cat, and yours looks like it'll work great.
PRS914-6
A little off topic but in the same arena.....I HIGHLY recommend converting to the ball bearing 911 seat rails (sliders) when you are working on the seat setup. If you always leave your seat in the same position, don't bother but if you are like me and move the seat rearward to get out of the car and do so frequently, the conversion is well worth the effort .

I also added a forward stop so I could just slide the seat forward and it automatically stops in the correct location. The seats slide unbelievably easy. THREAD HERE
Nick
Do the seat rail hinges serve the same purpose as the hinges / pivots in airline seats. The hinge allows enough flex to keep the seat mounted to the floor when the floor buckles in an accident. Without the flex the hinge the seats in an airplane break away from the floor. Just wondering if its the same in this case. If it is I would keep the pivot. Seat doesn't protect you very well when its bouncing around the interior in a wreck
RiqueMar
QUOTE(Nick @ Jun 19 2009, 09:29 AM) *

Do the seat rail hinges serve the same purpose as the hinges / pivots in airline seats. The hinge allows enough flex to keep the seat mounted to the floor when the floor buckles in an accident. Without the flex the hinge the seats in an airplane break away from the floor. Just wondering if its the same in this case. If it is I would keep the pivot. Seat doesn't protect you very well when its bouncing around the interior in a wreck


I could be wrong, but I think in the 914's case, it was for ease of installation of the mount, and adjustment of angle. I'm not sure, as I'm still new kid.
IronHillRestorations
I believe you can get new hinges and brackets from Stoddard.
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