Hi,
The plastic cover for my side shifter linkage is not installed. To install it, I need to separate the shift rod from the shift rod end.

Separate #27 from #24 in this diagram...



Any tips? I have the tapered screw out (#23), but the two pieces seem very tightly joined.

I have searched, but most refer to the joint close to the firewall.

Will I be able to replace the plastic cover with just this joint removed, or will I need to take off the firewall joint as well.

Thanks,
Walter

tap part number 24 towards the rear of the car while pushing the rod toward the front of the car...it will start moving as long as the cone screw is gone.

Rich

Help your self out and use a brass drift on the end of the rod , if you swell it with a BFH , you will have problems getting the end of the rod to exit the shift cup holder , although it's steel , it is still soft enough to swell / swage into a mushroom end. I discovered this on a 914 that I got and was going to replace the plastic cup inside that attaches to the transmission shift arm. It was a real SOB to get off with end swelled , and no KY didn't help.

Jaxdream

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=72509

Either I was very lucky or very ignorant, but when I dropped the [sideshift] tranny out of mine [75 2.0] and needed to separate these two parts, I put the tranny in gear, then removed the screw and used the shifter to just pull them apart. I never used any lubricants, heat, hammers, or fought the shifter- they separated with minimal effort. Then just had my dad push in on the clutch and I manually shifted the tranny back to neutral before completely dropping it. I can't remember which gear I put it in, but it was either 2 or 4- so that I was pulling back on the shifter when I tried separating them.

Have you tried that yet? Or are a bunch of the experts gonna jump me and tell me just how stupid that was?

If the screw is out, there's nothing but dirt and rust keeping it together. Clean it really well with WD40. You can tap it out.


I would get more leverage and twisting ability by further disconnecting up the line. The hard part with old dirty (rusty?) shifters, is getting them back together. Shift rods can also rust / bend.

Maybe this is a good time to inspect / replace the bushings too?

Absolutely. This does work sometimes too.. definitely try it first, but if its rusted on or bent, you'll be shifting as usual.

I'm coming to the realization that the plastic cover is not on because it's not the easiest to get it back on.

I will be ordering new bushings since every "how-to" I found about getting them apart is mainly talking about replacing the bushings to get a better shift feel. Might as well do it at the same time. Changing the seals as well since it's leaking a small amount of gear oil (Which was why I wanted the plastic cover back on in the first place).

As well as replace a broken speedo cable.

I'll try to get some WD-40/PB-blaster in there.

I was hoping there was some small clamping type tool that someone has found to get in there and force the pieces apart.

Once the cone screw is out, you certainly could use a small, two pronged gear puller. Just be careful about putting too much pressure on the shaft to cause the mushrooming. If the tip of the gear puller starts indenting the end of the shaft, you will have problems getting things back together. Patience and PB Blaster should do the trick.

Just keep working at it with a penetrating oil (WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil) and lightly tap on it with a hammer and punch. Like RobW said if the screw is out there's nothing but dirt and rust keeping it together. You just have to be patient.

You might also try taking the shaft loose at the firewall first, then you'd be able to rotate the shaft one way or another which will also help break it loose.

You can use heat as well, but make sure the surface is relatively clean so you dont start a class B fire

I am a 914 newbie- have been struggling with the same problem (getting the shift rod head off of the rod). My car is a 76 2.0 and it looks like the rear bushings have never been replaced. The cover is in great shape but found rust on the rod.

Have tried PB blaster, heat, beat, repeat, and small gear puller. No fires yet but have melted the old ball cup bushing! I am trying hard not to bugger up the head and the trans casting.

In the meantime I have rebuilt the shifter and replaced the firewall bushing but I am (literally) stuck. I have thought about reconnecting the two shift rods and shifter and using the gear lever to pull/twist on the shift rod. Anybody ever done this? Thanks.

That's what I did. I was originally trying to get a gear puller in there but it would not fit. Tried wedging a piece of wood in there and then banging on the rod to try to get it to move.

I applied PB blaster to the rear of the head, front of the head, and through the cone screw hole. Let it sit for a while, then came back and applied some more.

Good tip was shift into 2nd, then stack some wrenches around the front of the shift rod between the case and the head. The wrenches can rest on the top of the exhaust so they don't fall out. Then start pulling on the shift lever to get into 3rd. The shaft popped out after a couple of pulls. Didn't have to pull that hard either.

Click to view attachment

(I've reproduced what I did in the photo as you can see the rod is already part way out)

If all else fails:

Disconnect the the rod at the fire wall. Remove the two nuts that hold the shift console onto the transmission (drain the transmission first or this will do it for you). Remove the console and rod as a unit if you can and then you can work on removing the rod from the selector console.

Thanks, guys. I am going to try Wobbletop's technique first. Dr. Evil, you answered my unspoken question about unbolting that console casting from the main transmission & oil leakage.

I have replacement o-rings for the console if you need. Dont use sealant!

I tried my best and still can't get the shift rod out. I'm going to have to remove the shift console as Dr. Evil suggested. Is it advisable (or possible) to drift out the roll pin on the selector rod, so I can remove the entire console + shift rod? Otherwise I am still working under the car.

Since I might end up destroying the shift rod head, I would like to have a spare on hand. Does anyone out there have a spare for sale, or a source? AutoAtlanta had one listed for $78. Is that a reasonable price?

Dr. Evil, how do I get the o-rings from you? Thanks.

Don't drill the roll pin out. Just drain the transmission and remove the two 8mm nuts. It comes right out in less time than it would take to drill out the pin and you won't destroy anything.

Maybe someone got reel smrt ( ) and use Loctite on the shaft or something like that.

I had the same problem, tried heat, lubricant and eventually took out the whole shaft and had to use a press to seperate them. The constant heating and cooling of the two different metals bonded them together. Real easy once the press was used, be careful not to snap the joint. I would try EVERYTHING else first

Yes, you can use a drift to remove the pin form the selector rod and at this point I think that would be a wise choice. You will likely not goof up the head, but if you do I probably have a spare you can have. You need to PM me to get o-rings from me (click on my name and send email or PM).

Thanks to Dr. Evil and anyone else who suggested removing the shifter console. With the whole assembly off of the car, my gear puller actually fit on the rod head and I was able to get the rod out. The end of the rod was belled out and it still took quit a bit of effort!

I found a local guy selling 914 parts who had a rear shift rod, with both couplers, in better shape than mine. Bought for $75.

All bushings are replaced, linkage is adjusted, gearbox refilled with new oil, and car is being driven again! Shifts better, too.