I know we have covered this before but I can't find it in the classic threads...

What is the problem with using FLAPS "off the shelf" brake lines to replace "in Tunnel" fuel lines as long as it meets the I/D requirements...

SS tubing is expensive but can be done through a local hose shop...

2-OH!

I replaced mine with aluminum tubing from Jegs. The secret is to not nick it when sliding it into the tunnel. It is lightweight and easy to work with. I have used it on tons of classic restorations, with no failures.

How do you keep it from rattling in side the tunnel?

I took some thick sheet rubber cut out little holders /seperators that go directly on the lines. They don't rattle anyway, but this helps keep them sort of centered in the tunnel and from rubbing each other. Use double clamps on the ends and you should not see a leak ever. Just take your time uncoiling them from the box and sliding them in through the tunnel and you should be good to go.

oh ya one more thing,..get a "good" scissor type tube bender. That is the key, because you will have some nasty bends routing the thin tubing in the back along the firewall and up under the battery area. Don't kink the tubing.....

Steve,

What is JEGS ???

I plan to slip rubber hose over the tubes and TY-wrap them together through the access panels in the tunnel...

2-OH!

Get in touch with Chris Foley about getting some made. He did some for William Harris that were top notch. Definatly the right way to do this "upgrade".

Since I live in the hotrod capital of the US, we have specialty places for such equipment. Jegs is one of those suppliers http://www.jegs.com/
True they carry little for the likes of our cars, but they have great products.

I would consider putting some sort of bead on the ends of the tubing, the way the factory did with the fuel rails. That should help keep the rubber hose from slipping off the end of the hard line.

I would be very cautious about making the sharp 90-degree bend at the firewall; make sure you pay attention to the minium bend radius of the tubing. That spec should be listed somewhere... It may make sense to leave the tubes straight or slightly bent at the firewall, then transition to rubber hoses for the bend, then back to hard lines again. (Or don't even transition back to metal; just run rubber to the pump if the pump is in back.)

Either SS or aluminum should be fine--at least, if they're brake lines. I would not go with ERW tubing or any tubing that is welded closed, nor would I go with copper.

--DD

It seems like lots of people replace the center line 'just because'. Do they ever fail?

Yeah, Chris Foley (Racer Chris on this board) replaced my brittle plastic fuel lines with stainless steel and did a wonderful job. Highly, highly recommend him for anything he is willing to do. The guy is a master of his craft.

Thanks guys...

Dave, I plan to flare the ends at the bulkhead and make the corners with AN fittings, thereby eliminating the opportunity to kink...Aluminum would certainly be easier to work with though...

Anthony...I would not consider driving a teener very long with the original fuel lines in the car...Just my personal preference...I just don't like 30+ year old plastic and gasoline...Probability always catches up...

When I removed the engine this time for restoration, the fuel lines were so brittle, they shattered when I tried to remove the clamp...

One of the folks on this board has an Avitar that certainly made the decision very clear for me...

2-OH!

Actually, the stock plastic lines are very very good stuff. They are generally still fine after 30 years!! Where they go bad is where they are exposed to heat--which means in the engine bay. If the lines are still pliable, they are still fine, but once they get stiff they're a fire waiting to happen.

I think most people view it as "cheap insurance" to replace the plastic lines with metal. I'm not certain that the stock pre-75 lines are even available any more.

--DD

I'm talking about the center tunnel lines. (I've never heard of a failure.) The engine compartment lines should definitely be replaced if the are brittle or have been exposed to battery acid. My center tunnel lines are probably good for another 30 years.

I was watching American Hot Rod the other day and it looked like they were using some sort of flexible hose for the fuel lines. Does anybody know what they wer using? It seems like this would eliminate having to do any bends.