while searching for the cause of the incessent popping in my carbs, i decided to check my valves. turns out the adjustment screw for the # 4 exhaust is MISSING. i don't know how i did this having adjusted the valves last year before installing the engine. also the nuts on the rest of the rocker assembly are not 13mm , they are larger and possibly american. what the hell do i have here and can i replace the #4 exhaust screw or do i have to pull out the whole assembly.

You can buy the adjuster screws new, well, at least the 10mm ones.

A quick look at Pelican Parts site revealed this:

Valve Adjustment Screws
043-109-451 Valve Adjustment Screw, 8mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.7L (1970-73), Each $4.00 [More Info]

022-109-451 Valve Adjustment Screw, 10mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.8L/2.0L (1973-76), Each $7.95 [More Info]



999-034-005-00-M36 Valve Adjustment Screw Lock Nut, 8mm, 914 1.7, 8 Per Car (1970-73), 914-6, 12 Per Car (1970-72), Each $0.25 Brand: Febi [More Info]


028-109-453-OEM Valve Adjustment Screw Lock Nut, 10mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.8/2.0 (1973-76), Each $1.25 Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]

i have an entire extra rocker assembly but it has 13mm nuts how do i remove the screw from the assembly it sticks after a few turns and fear i wuill strip it.

Turn it the other way

Cook something ... sell it .... buy new ones .... and don't overtighten the lock nuts and the will last for a long, long time.

funny i have it 3/4 out and it stops wouldn't turning it the other way make it go back in?

If you look at it, it's a straight screw ... it doesn't really car which way it comes out of the threads other than the screw driver slotted end could be spread (mushroomed).

Clamp it in a vise and apply force .........

Bigger question is ...WHERE IT WENT? If it wasnt tightend down, backed off and found its way into the engine Id be worried.

Not possible for it to get into the engine, the lifter is in the way

It'll be in one of the tubes.

Naw, it's like socks in a washing machine ... winds up getting sucked into a black hole and spit out on the moon. Next trip, they'll find it.

It CAN get into the engine via the oil return slots for oil in the pushrod tubes..

the larger 10mm adjusters use a 14mm hex, not a 13.

This is why these are TORQUED every time they are tightened.. They will come loose if given the opportunity.

Cant argue with that.

I thought so too, man... either that or it would destroy the lifter too...

I just went and investigated my spare case which was a T4 bus unit, the slots for the oil drain in the lifter bore are 3/4" x 1/4" approx. The lifter is not in the way cause the oil has to get back to the sump somehow, Additionally I stuck a lifter in and sure enough there is room. Both your adjuster and my rocker not could fit through there and I am about to got diggin. Recall there are two circular covers in the sump, perhaps a magnet on a stick will fish em out... good luck with yours chef.

found it. hiding behind the other exhaust valve. was lined up pefectly behind it , couldn't see it . got it back in it is a 10mm with a 14mm head. why is that? what is the torgue for it? thanks for the help

ha, just found mine too in the #2 pushrod tube. Way to go man. Now, TORQUE em to spec, I know I will.

Hurry up and fix this so you can screw something else up

way ahead of you doc, that problem is gone, car is running rough , the reading on the problem carb is double 7's and no popping, now to time it again, check the dwell again and adjust the carbs...wait for it.... again.' i may drive it for a few weeks just for the hell of it.......then
i think i will post a poll on what the club members want to see me screw up next

front end rebuild
welding the longs
build a 2073
5 lug conversion
air conditioning
get ready to vote, a new disaster is on the horizon
thanks to all

Like I said, the 10mm units have a 14mm hex, thats nothing new.. Always been that way..

The nuts can make it down the tubes and end up in the sump through the oil return slots, I have found these in the oil sump before upon tear down.

Everything on the engine has a torque...

oops....

Rich

What is the torque spec for this?

I snug 'em and add 1/8 turn on the nut. Never found a torque spec for those nuts in what I have. Probably could look it up in the factory manuals, but I've never lost one or had one come loose.

I double check the nuts after an adjustment or mark them to be sure.

that's my plan, gonna try to get the car up on a lift soon and go over the valves one more time. way too hard to do right in a small garage ,on my back , my right hand looks like i stuck it in a ceiling fan. this was a long strange journey through the electrical, carbs and into the valves. but educational.

just wondering where the gremlin is hiding now?