For the fall, I am interested in getting my 6 conversion car completed. I am going with a Mocal front cooler and wanted a little extra cooling for the hot Alabama summers. I am considering using the Wolverine boiler finned cooling lines to run up the longitudinal and putting a 12an fitting on each end to help the cooling to the cooler and back to the engine. I don't know anything about these lines or if this would help any. Can someone who has used this stuff give me a little feedback so I don't make a mistake.

Thanks!

Jimmy

Dunno about those lines, but generally, the more surface area, the more cooling you get.

I run my oil lines inside the cabin and i can tell you that they DO get hot. Very hot.

If you run them outside along the long, find a way to get airflow on them, maybe open the rocker covers front and rear to let air go through.

That should help with the cooling as well ...
Andy

PS: You have to run a thermostat, ideally as close to the engine as possible. There is such a thing as too much cooling and a thermostat will ensure the engine gets up to operating temps.

Yeah, Andy,

I can imagine that running them inside the cab would reduce the cooling. I do have a thermostat that Iam going to mount next to the firewall engine mount and run the lines up the outside of the long to the cooler in the front. During the summer months on the interstate and at Barber's track it gets really hot and I am looking for a little extra. My plan was to use this finned tube if someone has used it without any problems on the outside long location. I had planned on cutting a hole in the front and rear and putting a screen on the rocker cover to let the air in and the heat out. I'm jusy concerned about using this tube and wanted to make sure with some of you gurus if the application was ok running hot oil through this copper tube made for high pressure coolant.

BTW, I haven't read all 5 or 6 pages of the trans clinic in Hotlanta. What is the date?

Wolverine tubes are a mainstay of the HVAC industry. Enhanced tubes (both inner and outer) are used mainly in large centrifugal chillers where water is on one side of the tube and refrigerant on the other. They do provide a marginal increase in heat transfer over smooth tubes for this application. Not so much in boilers though due to the increased likelihood of tube fouling.

HVAC heating and cooling coils on the other hand use smooth bore tubes both inside and out. There is little heat transfer benefit on an enhanced (expensive) tube as a liquid to air heat exchanger.

Want a better idea? Go down to your local home improvement store and pick up some 1/2" or 3/4" baseboard radiation (the stuff with the aluminum fins on it). If I remember correctly, 3/4" baseboard radiation is good for 600-700 btuh per foot with a 180 degree fluid temperature.

Hey....That is a good idea Tom. I will take a look at that in the next day or so. Do you know by chance if aluminum 12an fittings are available to TIG to the lines?

Baseboard radiation is a smooth bore copper tube expanded into aluminum fins. You can't TIG aluminum to copper.

I don't know if there are copper AN fittings out there or not. You certainly could pick up threaded NPT fittings and get an AN to NPT adapter. Just sweat the NPT fitting to the tube using a silver based solder. That will be a stronger joint than TIG welding copper.

Linear oil cooling line. This tubing is made for the application. I know of quite few racers that have used it and loved it. I'm considering it for my road race car.

http://www.lefthanderchassis.com/185.html

I've heard stories about finned oil lines collecting dirt and mud on street cars. I've no firsthand experience, though.

My bad, Tom, I was thinking that Al fins it must be Al pipe. Yes Silver sweat would be the strongest for copper that I know of.
I really like the look of the oil pipe that HAM INC sent and will look into that.
I really have worried about dirt and grime also, Mark. I will just have to peal the rocker cover off from time to time and clean it. That was one thing I liked about the link that HAM INC sent. Its cooling finns are parallel to the pipe and it would seem to me that it would not bend up under a light pressure wash.
This is all great info and I appreciate everybody's input. I will post progress after I get started. sooo much to think about ,sooo little time

Can you just go to a larger oil cooler? Or maybe a second oil cooler mounted somewhere else.

The linear coolin line would be a neat way to run along the outer rocker panels, but airflow would have to be provided. They are not that badly priced in comparisn to AN12 aeroquip hose.

BTW, some folks advocate using -16 lines if it's going to be a track car. The -12 can be marginal (though it seems to work fine on my 2.7 street car).

I am committed to a Mocal cooler I got at B.A.T. some time back. It is the larger of the two that is set up for the front like the original car had. I will have to make a box for it though. The inlet lines on it are -12 I think so I was just going to run that through-out. This is a beefed up 3.0 with steel flares. It will be a street car but I do want to run it in local D.E's at Barbers.
Tell me this George, Does the hose that you spoke of have a better heat displacement? I have some steel braided line but I want to achieve the best cooling possible. I will put in a thermostat so a little overkill will be OK.
This is a great help folks, Keep it coming!

I think the Aeroquip line is quite insulating and not very condusive to dissipating heat, but it easy to work with and quite strong. It also won't crack at a welded joint, so there is a bit of security there. I would imagine that a Mocal cooler with a properly vented airbox should be more than adequate. I used an old Turbotrol cooler mounted horizontally on the floor of my front trunk, with an airbox funneling air through it and out the bottom of the trunk floor. It keeps the oil cool enough that I don't have overheating problems on a moderately massaged 2.7, so unless you have a very modified 3.0, I don't think you will have any issues with overheating.

Where can I look at the Areoquip hose? I would like to know if I have seen this before. I believe that what I have will be enough also George,just don't want to do any of it again. Like you I have the conversion and also an orginal and want to get on to the resto on it and don't have the time to go back on the conversion after I get finished. Thanks for everybody's help.
jimmy

The lines should be available from any racing supply house. I bought my lines from Pegasus Racing in Wisconsin. They should also be available from Earl's, Racer's Wholesale, etc. Just try Googling braided oil lines and you should get lot's of hits. Pegasus is local for me, so they were the easiest. Prices can be high, but you get what you pay for. There are cheaper lines out there (nonbraided), but I think the extra security of knowing that a rock or something else that could hit it will not damage the line. The biggest concern is to be sure to use grommets whenever the lines go through a bulkhead, and proper clamps to support the hose, as the braided lines act just like a metal file on surfaces that they contact