So I got these really cool speakers and housings in the mail the other day. Morph does a great job! I just ordered a Blauplunkt radio to go with them. Now I need to figure out how to hook it up. I know there are a couple of wired zip-tied under the dash, I'll try to figure out where they go and see if thay once powered a radio. If not, then what? Also, can one hide an antenna somewhere?

Any help on wires, installs, etc would be great.

Thanks,
David

Not much to it really, I would run new wiring rather than relying on previous radio wiring, who knows what kind of hack job a PO did.

+12V switched power from the fuse box. A pair of speaker +/- wires and away you go. If the radio is new, it may have a "memory" wire so that needs constant +12. Heck, if the radio is new, then you should have a wiring diagram to follow in the user's manual.

When in doubt, RTFB.....

You'll want to put a back strap on the unit. There should be a metal strap with the kit. You don't want to hold it in place just by the shafts......Plus it's a great thieft device.....My 914 was broken into once and they couldn't get out the player because of the back strap.....they broke the lower dash trying......but didn't get it...

No shafts, I'm going with a modern DIN radio. What do you attach the strap to under the dash? For that matter, what's holding the radio plate to the dash itself. Is it just glued? I know it's a seperate piece. I'll need to cut the opeining bigger I guess since I can't find a super cheap DIN plate. (yes I am a SCOB).

Gee Z, I thought that what I had you for. Besides, I'm from northern Maine, I can't read; I rely on you telling me what to do.

Actually, I figured the manual (radio hasn't come in yet) would be for a modern car with plugs and adapters and such.

Now what about hiding an antenna? The original location is all bondo and rust.

Monster cable should work for car speakers to? I have a bunch left over from my old home theater.

I really wish i cold read that 6 cyl wiring diagram better to see what's switch and what's constant. Time to plot it off in a larger scale and study it for awhile.

The back strap should go from the back of the unit to the front firewall. I had a cd player/radio unit in my other 914 and the faceplate came off for thieft prevention. That sounds like what you have.
As far as a hot and keyed hot, use a test light to see what wire is hot without the key on for the clock/memory and one hot with the key on for off/on.
Be sure to connect the wires to the "fused" side of the fuse box. Meaning the side that doesn't get power when the fuse is removed.......

Take a volt meter.
Drop the fuse panel.
On the back, find an open male spade terminal that has constant power.
Find another one that has switched power.

From the radio you will have two leads..possibly three leads that require power.
ONE lead needs constant power...that is the memory lead.
The other lead (possibly blue) is for the power antenna...but in the newer units, it also needs switched power for the radio to function.
Third lead is switched main power.

All three of these lines need inline fuses.
Then you crimp a spade connector on them and route them to the fuse panel.
Route them up along the bottom edge of the dash...zip tie them to the harness.
DO NOT route them up and over the steering shaft...it is exposed and it WILL grab your wiring one of these day when making a turn.

Black goes to ground...I use one of the lower screws on the lower dash pad...crimp on a round connector.

Wiring for the speakers is different on most units...it will show you what to do. Tape off the leads you dont use...they have power when the radio is on and if they short out...it fries the radio.
Most systems are setup for four speakers...so you will have two that are not used.

The face plate is double sided taped on...just pry it off.
I cut the hole to fit...

There is a nut right behind the radio that you can use to bolt the strap to.

RIch

Don't cut the dash. The stock-sized opening is only SLIGHTLY smaller than a DIN radio, and it's only tight in the corners of the opening. Use a long punch and a hammer to relieve the corners and you're good to go.