Sher is haveing a baby shower tonight which might run late
and i am a slave to my second love
and she requires a new throttle cable ...tonight
the quicker i get it fixed the quicker i am out and about
it broke by the gas pedal
any quick change tips??

Don't chwa know ya better be careful with this one. See the posts about the sheath and the tube before you start. It may turn into a 3 day job.

There are no tricks ...

Remove carpets, pedal board, center console (if installed), center tunnel inspection plate and driver's seat

Pop connector at pedal loose and remove ball connector and nut.

Disconnect cable from throttle body in engine compartment and push it down thru the engine tin.

Crawl under car and pull the sheath loose from the firewall and pull cable out of tube.

push new one back thru and secure metal end on stub in firewall. You can push the sheathing back up through the engine tin.

Back in the car, fish the throttle cable end out of the center tunnel. Using a mirror, make sure it is not wrapped around the clutch cable. Put the lock nut on threaded end, screw the ball connector on and snap it on the bell crank.

Reassemble remainder of interior.

Go to engine compartment, secure sheathing to mount, pull cable and secure with barrrel connector to throttle body.

Wella .......................

Something like that anyway

I seem to recall that Slits has a few more steps that you could take....but you dont need to.
It involved cutting, welding, grinding, swearing, cussing...pounding a rod in....etc etc.

Rich

holy crap. i hope your luckier than i was. is it an original (or just old) cable?

It wasn't to bad at all
the old one was broken right at the where the wire meets the threaded end at the gas pedal, it looked like it had been frayed for some time, i put that cable in when i put the six in four years ago
but putting the new one in was not to bad ..old slipped out..new slipped, in the old sheath was pulled out after wards from the front.
but the real test is the run tomorrow...

We all curse you, for you have used up the ONLY easy install in history, and there'll likely never be another ................

The Cap'n

i like pics - even crappy ones : ))

Just do not make the mistake of thinking you should tape a string to pull back for use to pull it back in. This is where problems begin. Totally unnecessary. Remove the nut at the front, pull the cable out from the back and push in the new one. Follow Slit's directions.

Y.G.T.R.!

Related Cable ??? My plastic sleve on the wire cable broke off before i installed the cable. Did the install anyway IS the plastic sleve necessary??? (NOT the big black housing but the white thin plastic up in the tube) Thanks Bill

The only "trick" is to make sure that you don't get the throttle cable wrapped around the clutch cable in the center tunnel as this causes lots of bad stuff (sticking throttle, throttle cable breakage, high cholesterol, bad Kharma).

Like most items; K.I.S.S. is a great military term...no real tricks but careful actions- rule the day...carelessness ends your play. Good luck and may this one last~

About to tackle this along with pedal cluster and clutch cable.

Most of the instructions seem to make sense but why remove the seat?

Not totally necessary but makes it easier to access everything. A quick remove steering wheel helps as well. I just did this a few days ago. Just be careful not to wrap the cables around each other.

Its not tough to bugger up the clutch and throttle cables..

The new pedal cluster is in as are the new cables. Now just need to adjust the cables and button everything back up.

For the accelerator cable I ordered a Terry Cable which I am underwhelmed with despite having heard good things. The original cable, like the clutch cable, has a plastic sheathing that extends down the center tunnel. On the Terry Cable it is just cable. Nothing else about it seemed extraordinary. Doubt it will last nearly as long as what I think was the original.

Sure enough, the cables did get twisted but fortunately I was able to see the problem and get them correct. What really helped here was the Harbor Freight digital inspection camera (bore camera). It let me follow the cables all the way back to the firewall. They are on sale with a coupon for $60 dollars. It works pretty well and comes in handy for all sorts of oddball jobs like this one.

Mine was sticking a bit. Not driving the car much after my rear-end accident. I figure lets just take it out and lube it. Well I take it out and the plastic sheath breaks in a dozen places. The plastic is 43 years old. Lets just get a new one. I didn't want to wait, so the FLAPS had a Cofle brand cable. Upon install it would not go down the tube. Had to grind down the crimp on pedal end (see photo red arrow). Check this if you have a aftermarket spare for roadside repair. It still would not go down the tube until I reamed the inlet to the tube with a drill bit by hand. The cup and ball end would not snap back together. I had to remove the pedal board and get some channel locks on there to snap it back. Also, the length was not long enough. I had to back off the cup fitting again after re-assembly..ugh. 43 years of cable stretch. So what have we learned? Take your pedal board out, console and access panel out. Check your spare cable for excessive crimp clearance. Make it smaller than the threads and you should be fine. I ground mine down with my Dremmel. Replaced pedal mount hardware with stainless from Ace. So my 1hr job turned into a 4 hr job :/