I recenlty bought new floor pans for my 914 and am hoping to weld them in soon. Does anyone have any advice for removing the old floor pans? Also, what would you suggest I use to protect the underside of the floor pans with? (I heard spray-in bed liner for trucks works well)

Thanks, Robert

Bump

Depending upon how far your floor rust damage extends into the longs.

I cut out the floor leaving the lip bottom of the tunnel covered if that area is ok...and leave the bottom of the long covered if that is ok.

Try searching for partsman and his thread called "winter project"
Its either here or on 914club.

The thread has alot of decent pics.

RIch

Blair roto-broach is the best spot weld cutter.

Are you doing full floor pans? Left right split? Or front back split?

I'm doing front back split.

-Robert

After I removed all the rusty parts & built new outer frames, the only part not rusty was the center of the tunnel. This I left in tact, wire wheeled to a clean finish and repainted. I then drilled holes in the new floor pans down the center and spot welded the new pans to the old pans down the tunnel. This way I hoped to maintain as much structural integrity as possible. I wasn't worried about the extra weight when doubling up on the center tunnel steel.
Along the outer edges, center seam, front and back I used a continuous weld.
BTW use a weldable primer for this work.

DAMN, that Cartissorie is a friggin awesome thing.

next restore, it is time to build one.

This brings up an interesting point.

I've got a pretty much complete '73 that I DON'T want to disassemble (right now), but it needs a floor pan. How much weight will a rotisserie hold?

Is there any decent way to get a complete car in a decent position for floor pan replacement?

I am by no means a great welder and will definitely need some room!

(Sorry for the pseudo thread hijack, but this may be info that the OP can use as well!)

Bed liner works really well for protection, but is expensive.

I used ruberized undercoating, which looks almost the same (and you can check it out in my progress thread)

However, being in OK, you might want something a little more.... robust.

That is a question I have wondered on several occasions. I have a 73 that i just discovered needs the rear 1/4 of the floorpan fixed. I have had the car over a year now and just got around to peeling the tar off the floor to find I can see the ground in a couple of places.

My concerns with putting a complete or mostly assembled car on the rotisserie is whether the bumper mount sheet metal can support all the weight and how much more chassis distortion will occur with the extra weight. My 73 appears to only need the rear portion of the floorpans and some firewall work, the longs and hell hole are in good shape (at least until I look closer) so I may just haul it down to a friends shop and use a rack and weld from below. I had planned to make this a runner and work thru the mechanical issues before I started on body/paint but now I may have to change the order some. While peeling the tar up I tilted the driver side seat rail up out of the way and when I pushed it back down one of the hinge supports peeled up off the floor instead of the hinge flexing.

Anyone have thoughts on whether a rotisserie can support a complete car minus eng & trans?

Jim

I've never put a car on a rotissy but I would never do it with the engine and tranny in the car.

Day 1
Pull the bumpers off.
Pull the engine and transmission.
Remove all three hoods.
Remove doors.
All easy stuff to do, only about 2 dozen bolts in all.

Day 2
Remove interior, seat back pad carpet.
Cover dash up with clear poly.
Make supports to go from bottom door hinge to striker plate.
Make supports to go from top door hinge to upper seat belt mount.

Day 3
Mount car on rotisserie.
You may want to duck tape your windshield in before turning the car completely upside down, I don't know if it would fall out or not but you'd feel pretty stupid if it did.
Start floor repairs.

BTW all welding you do is best done flat facing down. I am a good welder and would never want to try to do a good floor pan job upside down welding overhead.

We just did the left half of a floor on a running car. It was done on a lift so no need to lay under the car.

One thing to keep in mind is if you are replacing the floor all the way to the front and you want the pedal cluster to fit back in there easily it should be bolted up temporarily before welding the new panel in place.

I agree with tracks914 about parts removal before mounting the chassis on a rotisserie. It doesn't matter how beefy the rotisserie is, the car chassis shouldn't have all that weight on it while it is suspended from the ends.