installed a new cb performance linksage on my carbed 2.0, movement by hand is smooth, response nice and crisp, when i hooked up the accelorater cable, my gas pedal is extremely hard to press down, the cable is set all the way out at the engine bay, i checked in the center tunnel, near the cluster and it seems loose. could it be that the return spring on the carb linkage is too strong or is there a problem at the pedal cluster... or something else

Sounds like the cable might be wrapped around one of the other lines in the tunnel.

There is an inspection plate on the top front of the tunnel. If you take it loose and look in there with a mirror you can see where the cable comes our of the tube. Sometimes it will get rapped around the cluth cable. Also look at the back end where it comes out of the tunnel, they can get kinked there.

I had this happen with a brand new, I would say after market accel cable. It finally got stuck and had me speeding down the road. Took it off and put on an original heavy old one and it was just the way it should be. Plastic sleeve in the new one just got bond up inside and stopped the cable from moving. Hope this helps. Use the heavy original German ones.

I wouldn't think that the return spring on the carbs would be too strong. It seems like it is either the cable is wrapped around something inside the tunnel, or the pedal bushings need replaced. Have you done that? A 914 I bought had a piece of 10 gauge wire around the top of the acc. pedal. That is how you de-accelerated. You pulled back the wire. I knew that the bushings had gotten brake fluid on them. Changed them out with bronze bushings and that fixed that. Probably the cable is wrapped. Check the bushings in the pedal assm. if you haven't.

reaching inside the forward hole into the tunnel, i can feel the unshielded section of the cable, it has a lot of slack, it has gotten caught up in the clutch before, but isn't now. it was fine before i switched engines, could it be just frozen up from a year of sitting? is there a lubricant that can be sprayed on to free it up. just want to check the simple thingse before i remove the assembly.

Are you talking about the cable being frozen up from sitting or the pedal assm.? Pop the acc. linkage from the pedal and pop off the cable end at the linkage assm. and see if the linkage part in the pedal assm. moves freely. With the cable removed from the pedal assm. pull it from the carb end and see if it is free.

My pedal froze up from sitting. Rusted the hinge. Just a thought.

all good answers , but you guys always miss one factor, the idiot factor or the me factor, i had the linkage backwards, now it is loose, actully a little too loose think i need to get a new bracket to hold the cable in the engine bay or is it possible to tighten it at the cluster

At the risk of being rude (when has that ever stopped me?), no, it doesn't. The symptoms to support the theory just aren't there.

Now, on to the diagnosis: If the accelerator pedal felt fine before the linkage was changed , then I'd suspect the return springs. If it's loose near the pedal, and feels too stiff, I'd suspect the cable and its sheath. If the pedal is tight without the cable, the cable or bell crank could be frozen up due to brake fluid contamination (unlikely, unless the fluid is just puking out). The first test I would do would be to release the cable at both ends, first pulling it one way, then the other. If it's not binding or dragging, then look at the pedal and the bell crank. If they move freely, then look at the linkage and the springs. Remember, too much spring tension is gonna cause the pedal to fail, or the bell crank to bend or break, as well as put undue strain on the cable. My money's on the cable and sheath.

The Cap'n

My money goes on Rich first....all in.

Rich

let me explain
i put the linkage on with the cable arm in the down position. this made me hook up the linkage arms to the outside of the throttle arm on the carb as it would only move down when the pedal was pushed. i then removed the hex bar and placed the cable arm in the upright position, moved the linkage to the other ( and original) side of the carb so it would pull up when the pedal gets depressed, this solved the problem although it would be nice if the pedal was a little stiffer than it is now. also i had to cut about an 1/8 of an inch off the hex bar to get it to fit in the first place. pardon my terminology. always bet on me before logic.

You have to play around with different spring strenghts

Rich

thats what i thought, i am still curious as to why the cable is so loose up by the cluster. when i reach into the center tunnel i can almost wrap it around my pinky, is there an adjustment up there?
also where my cable comes out of the fire wall it loops up in the air , it seems to have an extra foot or so on it.
i think the cap'n thinks i'm nuts

Rich, pop off the ball socket, #20, loosen the jam nut and take up the slack by screwing the ball socket down the cable as much as you need or all the way to take more slack out. The rear adjustment is obvious.

Click to view attachment

Pull the cable out and make sure it is slidding freely. Something your saying about play up front doesn't sound right.

thanks will try that.

I have this, I conjectured it was a sticky old cable, combined with a rusty pedal at the hinge on the floor. The hinge did not look too bad, but after closer inspection I noticed it was pitted and definitely had a lot of stiction(sticky friction). That is caused by years of random crap and rust combining for some very odd pedal action.

Some penetrant confirmed that. The bell crank bushings when lubed helped only very slightly.

I have all the new parts waiting to go on this sunday, except for an accelerator pedal. I am going to order one, they are about 40 bucks at pelican parts. Other option would be to soak the base of mine in something but it is a crapshoot and probably not worth my time.

Rich,

There are two things that may keep it loose up front.
One...
The cable is frayed right where it goes into the metal tube inside the tunnel....the frayed area is catching on the edge of the tube and stops the cable from going backwards any farther.

Second...and more likely.
The gas pedal has a spring built into the hinge...its part of the tension system...not much but if the spring is dead or dying the pedal wont come up all the way...
Or if its not bolts to the floor properly (Likely)

Look in the tunnel again...see if you can see a frayed area..
If its not obvious, remove the front connector on the cable and pull the cable out the back...then get a good look at it.

Caution...wear leather gloves to pull...if its frayed you can and will get a sliver in your hand...btdt...

Rich

will check it out tomorrow.i noticed today that there is a lot of side to side play in the part marked #19 in the part chart earlier in the post. it seems very loose

Check all your pedal assm. bushings. If they are plastic, replace them all with the bronze type. If you already have the bronze ones, clean the pedal assm. as well as you can. On the side to side to movement, remove cotter pin and use a washer/s to take slack out.

will do, a wise man(rtowle) once told me to balance the carbs use the idle adjust screw, the one that holds the throttle plate. which screw is that ? enclosing a weber link for clarity.


http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles...ics/40IDF70.pdf

That would be #26....