So before replacing the master cylinder I had 2 new rear brake calipers with new bleeders. I had two old front calipers with old bleeders. I bled the rear brakes but could not bleed the front because all the bleeder valves were stuck.

I decide to replace the master cylinder and the bleeders in the front. right front top bleeder snapped and is now locked in the caliper. the 3 remaining front bleeders are now new and I bled the entire system and the brakes do not stop the car and after bleeding the system 3 times there is no air coming out of any valve but the pedal does not stop the wheels and the front wheels are no longer spinning free.

Also question about the switch. The new switch has only one electrical terminal and I didn't have it connected. I assumed this switch sent the signal that the brakes were in use to the tail lamps. but when the car is running and the brake pedal is applied the lights in the rear come on even though the wires are not connected at the m/c . What is the purposes of the electrical switch and wires on the m/c if not to send the signal to the tail lamps?

why am I getting no stopping power on the rear with new m/c, new brakes and system bled all around. would the one bleeder valve on top front prevent all brakes from working?

Air in the system. I know it doesn't seem like it, but it's true. Incorrect parts aside, you've either got fluid leaking on the floor or a sealed system. If the system is sealed and it's not stopping the car, it's got air.

Brake are a PITA. Search the 'long tube' method.

The brake light switch is a mechanical switch under the pedal, the switch you see on the master cylinder is the low pressure warning switch. Did you replace the hoses? Old cars need new hoses. Always. Might want to replace the front calipers, too. AVOID calipers sold at your FLAPS. They're less than second rate. PMB Performance is the go-to-place. The Cap'n

The two wires that go to the MC, attach the one that is brown/yellow stripe to the switch. The other wire, brown, doesn't have to be attached. The black "button" under the rubber cover is a reset button for the brake light if you have low brake pressure.
The switch that activates the brake lights is in the pedal assm.

Eric Shea does great work.

Yeah, I got the rear brakes from PMB I was hoping to not buy the fronts but now I am thinking about it. So I read the long tube method and understand the principle but if the power bleeder is pushing the fluid through how does the pumping the pedal work better than the power flush. I would think the power flush is just more efficient

Recycling fluid.

Yeah, I bought 4 bottles new and have been flushing the system but i did pour the old stuff into the mix. That didn't affect the stopping before.

See I replaced the rear calipers, and the brakes bled the rear only and the brakes were still working just a little spongy. So i replaced the m/c and the front bleeders but now I get no stopping rear and the front left wheel is locking up.