OK, I have the answer as I just did two doors.

Give me your guesses.

When I say stripped I mean no more hinges and just minimal metal around the sides.

What remains is just the steel part of the door with a small lip.

No interior bars.

Click to view attachment

Mine weigh 20lbs but have hinges & handles.
A F/G "skin" weighs 4-5 lbs.

So your guess is?

14 lbs...

16#

A lot more than a 3 lb CF skin.

And the cost for that, including installation, is:

FG is $175 for pair. http://www.rennspd.com/P_Detail.asp?PID=376&Task=STD

CF probably 10X. LOL!

OK, so CF is way expensive.

FG at 5-6#'s, including fasterers, would be about $8.40 per pound, assuming about $200 for installation.

No hole saw on the surrounding edges? The Hamilton/SMurf 914 has huge holes drilled all the way across the bottom and side edges as well.

I guess yours will weigh 10# each

There are no edges left now. It is basically a skin with a small lip.

Answer: The doors weigh 13lbs. Rob was closest at 14lbs.

So in my case there is always another 7lbs per door available by going to FG.

Per pound that would be $57.00.

We ended up at 17lbs with all metal (required for vintage racing around here)

this is with inner and outer working door handles, an interior door "panel, working hinges and a working door stop

fiberglass or CF are not allowed:

Will the door be wavy now? or is the use of the door like so yesterday?

finished interior (also required for vintage around here)
the strap is the interior release handle.

full working doors that open and close are a requirement and in our rule book
This is true in many vintage clubs, I know it is in CVAR and RMVR plus many others:

What's a stock door weigh before it's stripped?

Depends whether its early or late model. Cars with crash bars weigh a lot more. I dont think I have seen weight for stock door with window, heavy particle board, map pocket etc. They sure felt heavy when they came off my car compared to stripped door.

Would be interesting to see, just to get an idea of what the overall weight savings are. Anyone have a complete early and late door that they can weigh?

No wavy, steel thick.

Mine was something like 55 or 60lbs ea.

If its not wavy its not light enough.

62 pounds late door with early window lift. crash bar still in it.


I have FG skins on my race car set of doors. no windows and haven't figured out a snazzy latch mechanism. Passenger door should never be opened so I might just go with pins. or Dzuz

Not much to see as the pins and dzuz are still in my head.

Thanks for the info! Perhaps you could just go sans doors - think Atom style! hehe, well, maybe not.

I have a '71 1.7 roller that's screaming for me to turn her into a light weight wide body racing beast. We just bought a house six months ago and I have two other 914 mouths to feed at the moment. Soooo, it has to be a bit lower on the priority list at the moment.

I've seen video of Atom's on the track. What bothers me is thinking about taking an Atom on a hill climb, going off and having some tree or whatever impale you through the side. There is literally nothing there to deflect an object.

Not that FG doors would do much better, but those light weight steel door skin's I have would sure be on any car I drove up Hoopa or like event.

They do make side panels for the Atom. Dont know that I'd feel much safer in a topless 914 with a cage welded to a 35 year old sheetmetal chassis if I was worried about tree car contact, Good news is that Hoopa really doesnt expose you to too many car into tree moments. I dont think there has been a serious car verses tree incident for 23 years. Mostly car verses blackberry bushes. However there is a reason why I ran a hardtop at Hoopa. There is some comfort in knowing if you go turtle you wont be eating berry bushes.

This year we had two offs. Nothing more than car into dirt and bushes.

I think you'll like the way we will be attaching my stripped door. I'll post pictures shortly.

FYI This fiberglass door weighs in at 8 lbs. on my lying bathroom scale.

also they need hinge holes drilled and tapped, latch holes cut and lots of trimimng and finish work.

Lots of trimming is par for the FG course.
Who makes those & mow much, Jeff?

GT racing still has em in their catalog , i think 600.
I bought these second hand.

Is it possible to cut the beam out of a 'late' door? Are we talking major hassle and risk of damage to the point where I should try to find early doors? (My car has one early and one late door, presumably due to damage at some point in its life).

You can cut most of the bar out, but you'll never get it all. Be careful with cutting because damaging the outer skin is a definite possibility.

Thanks Mark. I going to take the high road and start with some early doors, and leave my existing doors alone in case I ever want to put the stock glass and door hardware back together.

11 lbs with latch and handle

vbc

it wont post my pic...hmmm?

What I haven't seen yet is a breakdown of weight for those parts which can be removed and subsequently reattached, such as window glass, window frame, etc. and how much weight can be saved by removing metal.

My approach to stripping a (non-bar) door was two stages. I first took all the stock panels and inside openers off, then the glass and lowering assembly, then cut out the entire inside steel panel. That brought the door down to 20+lbs.

My second stage was to remove all the hinges and cut as much remaining metal as I could but still retain some door strength. I also cut out a couple of steel cross bars that I had inboard to keep the door square.

Now, I'll attach the doors with removable fasteners, but they won't open and shut as before, which doesn't matter in a car without a windshield or top.

Now it is at something like 13lbs. Oh, at this stage there isn't really any way to go back.

PS
If you are looking to lose some serious weight while autoxing or at the track, then just cut down a set of doors and swap them out when you want to go racing. This could easily save you 80+ lbs. If you used rivnuts to fasten them you'd be down in the 15lb (each) area or a saving of 90+lbs. You would definitely feel that much weight loss in performance.

How much weight do you guys think I could get out of some late doors if I need to keep the window in the door? (not necessarily functioning, but there, either up or down)

It has been some time since I stripped mine, but if I remember correctly the window and mechanical assembly were the heaviest part.

Like if stock doors are 55lbs (without the bar), then stripping down to just metal gets you to about 30-35 lbs per door. Of this about 80% was the glass and mechanical assemblies.

Plastic windows would save some weight over glass.

I just weighed an early and a late door. No handles and no panels.
All glass and window mech still in the door.

Early = 46lbs
Late = 54lbs

I think I can get 28lbs out of an early door and still have working doors with handles

I thought you needed glass.

BTW you can get down to the 15lb range by stripping a set of doors completely, just leaving the handle, hinges and the very outside frame and door skin. Then just swap the doors out on race days. Couldn't take more than 5 minutes.

I kinda do. The car gets stored outside. Although, I have been thinking about how to keep the thing dry outside and maybe a porta-carport thingie would work. Although, I think Santa Clara may not allow that. The weight I can get out of the doors is compelling.

The problem with swaping doors is AFTER an event. It would suck to have to come home and swap doors. I'm kinda beat afterwards. I think I'll have to clean out the garage. I hate losing the work space but such is life....

http://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/1580225827.html

I just need to clean this garage and put the car inside. I'll be much happier. Hey Randal, I hear the cantis leak when sitting. Do you swap tires when you get home?

Wouldn't it be nice to have a big warehouse, where you could drive in and leave the car on the trailer?

Someday.

I was thinking about leaving the car on the trailer outside and covering it up real good but I'm afraid of the ease of theft.

I've never heard that canti's leak and never experienced it.

Yea, even a little clean garage is satisfying, especially with your hot machine parked inside.

I love those high Costco shelves with wheels so you can move them around.