It’s easy to go to cb performance and buy a new 009 so we kinda know the price. the vw mags sell imitation 009s but i have had issues with these Kung Fu specials.

1 what is the going rate for a used 050?
2 anybody here got one?
3 between the 2 choices, which has the preferred curve for a type 4

The 009 has about 15 degrees of advance and the 050 has more - but can't remember how much more. The old school of thought that the 050 was a better choice than the 009.

Some would say that a stock dist. is best for carbs with vaccume pod plugged. But between the 009 & 050, I'd go with the 050 and electronic ignition.

050 is supposed to be better than 009... it doesn't retard the 3rd cylinder, either...

stock is better than either, and mallory is better still.. depending on how much advance you need.

I went with a 205AA 1.8 dizzy, it has the most advance of any stock one, which is what I needed for my cam. it was the only option for me besides the mallory

The 009 doesn't have enough advance. My last car came with the 009 and I could never get it to run right. I got a hold of an 050, had it curved for my 2056 and it was a HUGE difference. The 050 is better than the 009 but to really make it right you need to get it curved.

I have an 050 that I pulled off of my 2056. I upgraded to mallory. PM me if you are interested. My 2056 is a Raby, so I'm assuming it's curved already

Mike

PS. It's points.

050 is the better choice between those two.
Even better is the Ljet distributor...

Rich

050/009 = 5.55555555

So, taking that into consideration the 050 is at least 5.5 times better than an 009.

Sincerely,

A. Einstein

Damn Molloy, you should know that by now!

I keep hearing that the L-jet is the best distributor with carbs
are there more than 1 Ljet?

I put my Ljet distributor (not sure which one) on and the car ran crappy
should both vacuum be plugged when running the Ljet distributor?

I tried 2 djets, and a 009, and this one Ljet I have.... the 009 was the best of the lot but still crappy.

sorry for the thread hijack but need advice
brant

there is more than 1 Ljet - 1 is similar to a djet dizzy, about 29 deg. of advance, the other was used part of '74 and has about 32

and if you aren't going to tap your carbs for vacuum, you have to plug the ports. vac. advance is nice to have, imo... I'm having my carbs drilled for advance. the vac. retard will still be plugged on a dizzy that has both.

remember to time it for total advance, too... the 009 will idle pretty decent, but it doesn't have enough total advance at 3200rpm...

The SVDA is a good alternate.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewprodu...eyword2=IGD0001

the 050 dizzy is not allways best...especially when you dont have one.
good L-Jet dizz is becoming more difficult to find. seems like D Jet diz is more abundant

John at Aircoold.net is a really good guy, knows his VW stuff, and stands behind his parts. He's been racing VW's for quite a while.

He's the other vendor (besides Jake) that I would buy from.

Save an L-Jet dizzy for L-jet engines. Buy a carb dizzy from John.

Ken

I have not heard of using the SVDA for a type 4.

I can't agree more with buying from John tho... whenI didn't know what I needed, john will answer and help me figure out the order. good guy, top notch service.

isnt "aircooled.net" a Raby enterprise?

no

type4store is Jake's

Does anybody happen to know the total advance of that SVDA?

I looked for that myself, but lost intrest before I found the answer... damn ADD

Call John and ask. Tell him that there are a lot of 914's with carbs and that we need a certain amount of advance. One of his options may work or maybe he needs to respring his dizzy for us.

At that price, a properly tuned 914 carb dizzy would be a real nice item that works better than the usual 050 or 009.

esp. since the 050 is damn near a myth it's so non-existant. and the mallory is $330 with the vac. advance, and the 009 is code for POS

keep tabs on ebay, I got my mallory new on ebay last year for 200 bucks..

I have one on my L-Jet car. I get 28 degrees at 3000 rpm. I think total advance is a little higher - 30 degrees maybe.

l jet is 32

early 74 only - which is the 205AA
the later one is less...




Distributor: VW 021-905-205AB, 0231 176 048, 022-905-205AB, 0231 181 012

Timing Set At:: 5deg ATDC @ 800-950 rpm w/strobe, vacuum hose(s) connected
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum: 8-11deg Adv @ 7.9 In. Hg, 11-13deg Ret @7.9 In. Hg; Centrifigual: 11-17deg @ 2000 rpm, 21-25deg @ 3600 rpm

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm

thanks for teh link

One question I had about the vacuum
my carb manifolds have a small port for vacuum

but is this the correct amount of vacuum to activate the diaphram?
I guess its the same amount that the motor would produce anyways... but I wasn't sure

when I put my djet in and hooked up the vacuum ports.. it still ran crappy.

That's what Scott's doing. All you need to do is put a vacuum gauge on it and compare that to a stock motor's vacuum signal.

A thought I've had for a while now and came back to me after reading this thread:
For that matter you could always use a D-Jet dizzy with carbs. Any of them would probably have a better advance curve than a 009. Think about it - the only real difference between it and the L-Jet unit is trigger points for FI. So you don't use them either just like the vacuum canister. No big deal especially if you have one laying around and you need something better than a 009.

BTW - If you're carb'd and using a dizzy with a vacuum canister and not running vacuum line to the canister, it's vacuum ports don't have to be plugged. With no vacuum signal the canister won't do squat anyway. Of course if you don't plug them the canister will probably rust.

if you want vacuum advance the small split port in the bottom of the carb is not where you hook it up... that is the constant vacuum port...

you have to tap a small port slightly above the throttle close position, so that it activates the advance on throttle open. the port below the throttle would open the advance always. I think some webers even have the spot marked for you. but I cannot attest to this, as mine are quite old.

my Mechanic is doing this for my Ljet carb now. which is the only reason I know ANYTHING about this, because Wes is showing me how it's done as he goes. otherwise I'm dumb as a box of hammers

you want the advance to open as you open the throttle, if you set it on the constant vac. ports, you'll have it too advanced initially, and it won't run right until you get it up in the higher revs.

that must be why my car drove like crap with it hooked up

so on the actual throttle body?
do you have a picture?

brant

yes, on the throat it's self, above the low end of the butterfly.

not yet, it's at the shop today. basically he said you measure up from the bottom on the front throat of the pass. side (#4 cylinder for those playing at home) on the side where the throttle closes low. you want to go just a bit above that, tap a vac. port and put a fitting there for the vac. hose.

once it's complete, I'll take a pic of the setup.

is the retard side of the diaphram supposed to be hooked up to the small constant port?

I don't think the retard side will be hooked up at all, it will be plugged on the vac. canister

I put the svda from aircooled on my son's 72 1600 sb and it works really a lot better than the 009 I put on it in 1986. It has about 30-32 degrees total at 3500 if I remember correctly set at 7.5-10 initial advance. When a motor is under load at high vaccum is when it needs advance. A centrifugal advance only works with rpm. It's nice to have both for a happier cooler running motor.

You will not want the retard port plugged if you are using the vacuum advance. The retard and advance diaphragms are connected together in the canister and have to move with each other. If you plug the retard port the advance diaphragm will be fighting the retard diaphragm to advance the timing. Leave it open or put a small chunk of hose on it and point it down so you don't get water and cr*p in it.

Jim