I'll be starting a fuel system restoration this coming Sep/Oct and am gathering the necessary parts to get this done.

I will be pulling the gas tank and treating it with Por15 Fuel Restoration and seeing that the tank will be removed I might as well change the factory plastic fuel line(s) as well.

I've read that there is only one fuel line necessary for a carb set up. If this is true and I eliminate one fuel line, does it matter which one? From/to the tank?

Any help would be appreciated.

Fern

Sorry bout that, I accidently posted this in the WTB/FS section.

I'll be starting a fuel system restoration this coming Sep/Oct and am gathering the necessary parts to get this done.

I will be pulling the gas tank and treating it with Por15 Fuel Restoration and seeing that the tank will be removed I might as well change the factory plastic fuel line(s) as well.

I've read that there is only one fuel line necessary for a carb set up. If this is true and I eliminate one fuel line, does it matter which one? From/to the tank?

Any help would be appreciated.

Fern

You will need:
New fuel pump
new regulator (if your pump is not pre-regulated for carbs)
new fuel filters (2)
1 hose from tank to fuel filter
1 hose from filter to pump/regulator.
1 hose from pump to center tunnel
replace plastic center tunnel lines with one made from Stainless Steel. Only need one.
Hose from tunnel line to another filter
hose from 2nd filter to fuel safe T intersection (if going dual carbs)
hose going from T to each carb.

No return line is needed as fuel pressure is only 3 or 4 pounds - not enough to overpower the carb floats.

Zach

The line that you will use is the fatter of the two fittings on the bottom of the tank.
Cap off the other one at the tank to reduce the risk of it leaking somewhere else.
You dont need to replace the in tunnel lines if you think they are ok.

Put the new fuel pump LOWER than the tank bottom.....pumps are not very effective in sucking, they are designed to push.

A simple place to put the pump is in the stock location underneath the battery area, way down on the inside of the longitudinal.
Then its below the tank bottom, and it can push the fuel up to the carbs.
Put the regulator (and filter IMHO) in the engine bay so you can see them and change them easily without a lift.

Dont be cheap on fuel line (use high pressure FI line) and use the high end stainless fuel clamps, not the cheapo hardware store screw clamps, they cut the end of the hose and eventually leak.

Lots of these cars have burnt up due to people being cheap on routing and installing the fuel lines.....take the time to do it right.

If you mount the fuel pump up front you will be pressurizing the fuel lines in the tunnel which just adds risk to the whole setup....


Rich

Zach, Rich,

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I should have no problem with this.

This car of mine has been on jacks for over two years, I don't know if you remember, it is "The Nando Build" thread.

I'm a contracter and been living in Kandahar Afghanistan - I've got the BUG again and will restart the projects to get this thing on the road (one day).

Again thanks,

Fern

Thank you for serving our country.
If you need anything, let us know...the brain trust here is pretty deep.

Rich

FWIW, I used aluminum racing fuel lines, they were very easy to bend into perfect shape, and cheaper than steel.

I've decided that I need to put the fuel return line back in place with my carb set up. Everything is ok unless I do a lot of stop and go driving in town. If I do, the gas seems to heat up in the lines and the car doesn't run quite the same. Also, sometimes when I shut it off for a short period, like I ran in to a store, an air bubble forms in the line and the pump runs dry.....scares me. I'm figuring that if I put a return line in at the second carb, the fuel will keep circulating and the fuel temp will stay lower.

Hello Fern.........when you remove the nipples from the fuel tank you will notice that one of them (the larger one) will have the tube screen in it, which also acts as a washer....you may have to pry it out with the edge of a knife, they are usually stuck a little...that is the one you want to mark as the supply line to your carbs (replace that little screen tube) even if it cleans up the mesh is usually compromised somewhere. The other nipple can be removed and capped with the original cap and a suitable plastic piece or better yet a plastic piece and an aluminum washer to close the hole in the cap, snug the cap up and test for leaks....I would also get in touch with Chris Foley to get a new stainless steel fuel line......Hope this helps..........Jerry

the fuel that sits in the float bowls and cooks when you shut down the engine will not benefit from a return line. in most cases if you wait for a moment or 2 after the restart the 'hot fuel' issue will subside. what really heats up the fuel is the failure to keep the lines off of the case. i used 2 rubber lined clamps attached to the rear tin to secure the line. where the fuel line tucks into the rear tin, it's wrapped in a section of split vacuum line. brass tee where the lines devide for each carb. the lines are suspended after the single single enters thru a grommet on the tin and never make direct contact with heated metal.