As long as I'm planning on puliing the motor YET AGAIN. I started thinking of easier ways to get the car high enough for an engine pull in a cramped garage. Has anyone figured out how to use a large engine hoist to raise the rear (or front) of a 914?

-Josh2

make a bar that attaches to the front or rear bumper mounts. This is how must of us attached our cars on rotesseries.

Hoist away.

Zach

I remember seeing a pic on here a few years ago, a guy had the back end WAY up in the air via a hoist.

A walk-behind Bobcat will work too....

Well, my car is at least in a little better shape than that one. Thanks though for the image...

-Josh2

Yeah, I usually work alone on mine. My solution was to buy an electrical ceiling hoist. the one I purchased is rated @ 1200lbs. and as I 'm only raising the rear of the car much of it's weight is transfered to the front (which I jack 16"-20" & support securely). Now I raise rearend enough to support, eng./trans with floor jack, and disconnect everything, then raise higher if needed to pull eng/trans from beneath or to give my big self more room to work (usually 36-40") blocking it securely & lowering car onto stands removing the weight from cable (You don;t want to trust any devise ie; jack, engine hoist, ceiling cable(or chain) hoist, to support the car, especially with You under it). When done I tighten cable ,remove blocks/jack stands, lower car, remove eye-bolt and tube, & raise the cable,
it takes up no additional room when not in use.
In addition I reinforced the two ceiling joist that carry the load w/ some left over 2x10's , and mounted the hoist across them on the recommended 1-1/2 square steel tubing. Finally I used an existing hole I'd previously drilled in trunk floor (for new trans. ground point) to pass a 1500lb rated eye bolt through the floor and another 1 1/2" square X about 32" steel tube to spread the weight across trunk floor. With trunk open just connect cable hook to eye bolt. I can raise & support the rear to 36"-40" in about 15mins.(including jacking the front up to provide more room to work)It cost me roughly: <$100.for the hoist on sale, <$ 20. for steel tubing, <$10. for an eye bolt, and I had the lumber..... . So around $125.-$150. and about 3 hrs. labor. It's made the work so much easier. The most helpful tool I ever owned, only wish I'd done 20 years ago.

Good Luck, and of course, no one needs to be reminded to.. BE CAREFUL whatever lifting device You use.

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Try Pelican's method using the furniture dolly (8.00 at harbor freight- 15.00 at Depot) Much safer (especially for a one man operation) and It seems that I didn't lift the car as high using this method. I've only pulled my engine 3 times so I'm no expert.

I just used a 2 ton come-along/hand winch tied around a big 4x4 spanning the engine bay to get it up on jackstands. Took all of 5 minutes, and got it high enough quick enough the engine could go in with Carbs on. Very Easy...

Here is a picture of my tub being lifted to be placed on a bench. This worked but only because the suspension is off. I am not sure if I would do this with a loaded car. I have a minimal height I can work with. I feel the lines needed to be longer for a heaver car.
Glenn took this picture. More pictures here:
Budget bench

I use big 10 x 10 blocks (solid wood) underneath the wheels.

Here is another option for the engine removal. I made a special hanger for the engine. The balance point is at the connection of the transmission and the engine. This point is below the trunk so hanging directly from it is not possible. My hanger hooks around the trunk so I can drop the motor hanging from a hoist. It really worked well.

I am currently using a hoist to lift the rear of the car. The motor and tranny sit on a HF motorcycle dolly. It works good. I made a special bumper out of angle iron and used the stock mount holes.
Paul
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Hi Paul,
Yours is the first Toyota V8 powered 914 project I've seen. Is there more about your conversion online to check out?