One of the center caps on my BBS RS Wheels just wouldn't seat fully. Today I noticed that the studs on that wheel extend much farther out than the other three wheels do, and the center cap hits them and can't seat fully. So, I'm guessing these studs are available in different lengths and the seller, in a rush to cobble the car together (he added the 911 suspension and BBS wheels before putting it up for sale) just threw in some longer studs? Whattaya think?Click to view attachment
BTW...good chance the wheels will be for sale very soon. 16x7 and 16x8 offsets of 23 and 11 respectively. PM if interested.
Full Version: Wheel Studs Too Long For My BBS Center Caps?
Yes, you can get studs of multiple lengths, so that might be the issue, however...
...when doing a 5 lug conversion using stockhubs, it appears that due to the additional material of the bosses for the 4 threaded holes, some of the 5 lug holes when drilled have differing thickness on the hub, and therefore would protrude farther. Does that make sense?
In the absence of that, check to make sure the studs are not pulling through the hub due to shoddy install/drilling.
I hope that helps.
...when doing a 5 lug conversion using stockhubs, it appears that due to the additional material of the bosses for the 4 threaded holes, some of the 5 lug holes when drilled have differing thickness on the hub, and therefore would protrude farther. Does that make sense?
In the absence of that, check to make sure the studs are not pulling through the hub due to shoddy install/drilling.
I hope that helps.
Nope...makes no sense to me but that's probably more to my ignorance than your explanation
I don't believe I have stock hubs. I believe it was a total 911 transfer..something I'll have to look it more closely.
Yes, you can get studs of multiple lengths, so that might be the issue, however...
...when doing a 5 lug conversion using stockhubs, it appears that due to the additional material of the bosses for the 4 threaded holes, some of the 5 lug holes when drilled have differing thickness on the hub, and therefore would protrude farther. Does that make sense?
In the absence of that, check to make sure the studs are not pulling through the hub due to shoddy install/drilling.
I hope that helps.
I don't believe I have stock hubs. I believe it was a total 911 transfer..something I'll have to look it more closely.
QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Aug 27 2009, 05:59 PM) 
Yes, you can get studs of multiple lengths, so that might be the issue, however...
...when doing a 5 lug conversion using stockhubs, it appears that due to the additional material of the bosses for the 4 threaded holes, some of the 5 lug holes when drilled have differing thickness on the hub, and therefore would protrude farther. Does that make sense?
In the absence of that, check to make sure the studs are not pulling through the hub due to shoddy install/drilling.
I hope that helps.
Are you using steel lug nuts? If not, maybe you could use some since they would be covered up and put a 1/4" spacer in. Maybe that would take up the room needed for the cap to seat. If you're using stock lug nuts be sure you're not bottoming them out on the longer stud (s).
Doesn't look like the lug nuts are even an issue as it's the studs themeselves that protrude so far they hit the centercap.
Are you using steel lug nuts? If not, maybe you could use some since they would be covered up and put a 1/4" spacer in. Maybe that would take up the room needed for the cap to seat. If you're using stock lug nuts be sure you're not bottoming them out on the longer stud (s).
QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Aug 27 2009, 06:36 PM)
Are you using steel lug nuts? If not, maybe you could use some since they would be covered up and put a 1/4" spacer in. Maybe that would take up the room needed for the cap to seat. If you're using stock lug nuts be sure you're not bottoming them out on the longer stud (s).
What I meant was you may need to put a spacer between the wheel and hub. That should push the wheel out enough to put the cap on the way it should be.
Wouldn't the proper solution be to put in shorter studs arther than add a spacer behind the wheel, changing the offset, geometry, etc.?
What I meant was you may need to put a spacer between the wheel and hub. That should push the wheel out enough to put the cap on the way it should be.
QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Aug 27 2009, 10:47 PM)
What I meant was you may need to put a spacer between the wheel and hub. That should push the wheel out enough to put the cap on the way it should be.
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 27 2009, 08:11 PM)
Wouldn't the proper solution be to put in shorter studs arther than add a spacer behind the wheel, changing the offset, geometry, etc.?
Have you verified yet that your studs are indeed longer on that hub?
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
I'll pull the wheels as soon as I can, but unless they are hanging on by one thread, and all five have backed their way out to that point, I'd say yes. The nuts are also longer.
Wouldn't the proper solution be to put in shorter studs arther than add a spacer behind the wheel, changing the offset, geometry, etc.?
Have you verified yet that your studs are indeed longer on that hub?
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 28 2009, 12:14 AM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 27 2009, 08:11 PM)
Wouldn't the proper solution be to put in shorter studs arther than add a spacer behind the wheel, changing the offset, geometry, etc.?
Have you verified yet that your studs are indeed longer on that hub?
Well...still haven't pulled the wheels but here's a shot of each front wheel. Notice the longer studs (apparently), and lugs on the right side? These keep the center cap from being able to seat in the wheel.Click to view attachment
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 30 2009, 11:40 AM)
here's a shot of each front wheel.
Your left front does not look safe!
There's only a few threads holding those nuts on ...
And those look like the short steel lug nuts, while the right front lug nuts look like the longer aluminum ones with the back popped off ...
Did someone add spacers to that wheel?
Andy
No idea about the spacers...will pull the wheels tomorrow.
here's a shot of each front wheel.
Your left front does not look safe!
There's only a few threads holding those nuts on ...
And those look like the short steel lug nuts, while the right front lug nuts look like the longer aluminum ones with the back popped off ...
Did someone add spacers to that wheel?
Andy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 30 2009, 05:49 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 30 2009, 11:40 AM)
here's a shot of each front wheel.
Your left front does not look safe!
There's only a few threads holding those nuts on ...
And those look like the short steel lug nuts, while the right front lug nuts look like the longer aluminum ones with the back popped off ...
Did someone add spacers to that wheel?
Andy
Nah...went out to look. There are way more than "just a few threads" holding that wheel on...they're OK. Thanks anyway for the concern though.
here's a shot of each front wheel.
Your left front does not look safe!
There's only a few threads holding those nuts on ...
And those look like the short steel lug nuts, while the right front lug nuts look like the longer aluminum ones with the back popped off ...
Did someone add spacers to that wheel?
Andy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 30 2009, 05:49 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 30 2009, 11:40 AM)
here's a shot of each front wheel.
Your left front does not look safe!
There's only a few threads holding those nuts on ...
And those look like the short steel lug nuts, while the right front lug nuts look like the longer aluminum ones with the back popped off ...
Did someone add spacers to that wheel?
Andy
Just went out and looked at the rears. A few of those lugs are just on a few threads. I bought the car from an eBay seller (al & Axel Conrad), who sells Porsches all the time on eBay. When he bought the car from the PO, just a few months ago, it had 4 lug chrome reverse wheels on it. He kept them and did the 5 lug "911" conversion on the suspension. I have no idea at this point what he did with the studs and lugs, but that right front is definitely different from the other three. I'll start pulling wheels this week and post some pictures.
A general rule of thumb for threaded fasteners - if the length of thread engagement is equal to or greater than the bolt diameter it is strong enough. The front nuts that extend farther than the lugs appear to have at least 14mm engagement.
OTOH, if you were to take the car to a PCA competetive event it might not pass tech because the studs don't extend all the way through the nuts.
OTOH, if you were to take the car to a PCA competetive event it might not pass tech because the studs don't extend all the way through the nuts.
Great information...thanks. I noticed that the right front...the one with the longer studs and nuts, has cut marks on the very outer edge of the tire, but no evidence that it was hitting the lip of the wheel well on the steel itself. Paint is perfect and no rubber anywhere.
How hard are the studs to change out for the proper sized ones? Is this something I can do at home with hand tools?
A general rule of thumb for threaded fasteners - if the length of thread engagement is equal to or greater than the bolt diameter it is strong enough. The front nuts that extend farther than the lugs appear to have at least 14mm engagement.
OTOH, if you were to take the car to a PCA competetive event it might not pass tech because the studs don't extend all the way through the nuts.
How hard are the studs to change out for the proper sized ones? Is this something I can do at home with hand tools?
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Aug 30 2009, 10:28 PM)
A general rule of thumb for threaded fasteners - if the length of thread engagement is equal to or greater than the bolt diameter it is strong enough. The front nuts that extend farther than the lugs appear to have at least 14mm engagement.
OTOH, if you were to take the car to a PCA competetive event it might not pass tech because the studs don't extend all the way through the nuts.
Looks like some kind of spacer / adapter behind the right . Pull your wheels and measure the studs and check for adapters / spacers. They definatley don't look right. Figure out what you want versus what you have , go from there . Depending on what hubs you have and where you want to end up will determine the easy to hard ratio.
Good luck ......
Jaxdream
Good luck ......
Jaxdream
That's this morning's job (gotta love being retired). Will report back later...thanks.
Looks like some kind of spacer / adapter behind the right . Pull your wheels and measure the studs and check for adapters / spacers. They definatley don't look right. Figure out what you want versus what you have , go from there . Depending on what hubs you have and where you want to end up will determine the easy to hard ratio.
Good luck ......
Jaxdream
QUOTE(jaxdream @ Aug 31 2009, 12:56 AM)
Looks like some kind of spacer / adapter behind the right . Pull your wheels and measure the studs and check for adapters / spacers. They definatley don't look right. Figure out what you want versus what you have , go from there . Depending on what hubs you have and where you want to end up will determine the easy to hard ratio.
Good luck ......
Jaxdream
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
So, obviously they both add up to 2.25" but that makes no sense to this rookie as the distance to the end of the studs is meaningless as far as offset, clearance, steering geometry, etc. Why would the seller who outfitted the car for 5 lugs use a narrower spacer on the right side than on the left? Was it simply because he only had an odd set of spacers in his parts bin (Porsche guy who "fixes" up cars and sells 2-3 a month on eBay and has a garage / yard full of cars and parts)?
Also, both sets of lugs were aluminum. I had to use my full weigh, off the ground, to get the lugs off the right wheel (one of the left ones was finger loose). The ones on the right side came off stripped, leaving much aluminum on the garage floor. When I tried to thread one of the right side, smaller lugs, on the right side, they too started to strip. My only assumption is a different thread?
At this point, my thinking is to replace the right side spacer with a 1" one with correct length studs (2.25")?
So, obviously they both add up to 2.25" but that makes no sense to this rookie as the distance to the end of the studs is meaningless as far as offset, clearance, steering geometry, etc. Why would the seller who outfitted the car for 5 lugs use a narrower spacer on the right side than on the left? Was it simply because he only had an odd set of spacers in his parts bin (Porsche guy who "fixes" up cars and sells 2-3 a month on eBay and has a garage / yard full of cars and parts)?
Also, both sets of lugs were aluminum. I had to use my full weigh, off the ground, to get the lugs off the right wheel (one of the left ones was finger loose). The ones on the right side came off stripped, leaving much aluminum on the garage floor. When I tried to thread one of the right side, smaller lugs, on the right side, they too started to strip. My only assumption is a different thread?
At this point, my thinking is to replace the right side spacer with a 1" one with correct length studs (2.25")?
You might want to measure the offsets of both wheels too, just in case they are assembled from rim halves that aren't identical for both wheels.
Good idea. I'm guessing I need to lay a straight edge across the back of each wheel and measure to the mounting face?
You might want to measure the offsets of both wheels too, just in case they are assembled from rim halves that aren't identical for both wheels.
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Aug 31 2009, 11:45 AM)
You might want to measure the offsets of both wheels too, just in case they are assembled from rim halves that aren't identical for both wheels.
Yep , just make sure that the straight edge rests on the wheel rim only and not the tire. Measure around in a few spots down to the mounting pads where the studs / bolts go through . When you're done go look the guy up -- 
Jaxdream
Jaxdream
Just did that. They are exactly the same...approx. 4 and 15/16" deep. I did however notice that on that right side, there are two spacers...the one 1/2" one I reported on and another 3/4" one for a total of 1.25". The sits a good 1/2" farther out in the wheel well, and I can't for the life of me see how the spacer was added or how I can remove it. Wait until you see the upcoming shot of what the DPO did...it's rucking fidicuolous!
Yep , just make sure that the straight edge rests on the wheel rim only and not the tire. Measure around in a few spots down to the mounting pads where the studs / bolts go through . When you're done go look the guy up --
Jaxdream
QUOTE(jaxdream @ Aug 31 2009, 12:33 PM)
Yep , just make sure that the straight edge rests on the wheel rim only and not the tire. Measure around in a few spots down to the mounting pads where the studs / bolts go through . When you're done go look the guy up --
Jaxdream
.........
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 09:25 AM)
How do I proceed on this mess?
Unbolt the spacers on both sides, get long wheel studs, replace your current short studs with long ones, get appropriate spacers for the long studs, mount your wheels, then sell the bolt on spacers on eBay ...
Andy
Andy,
How do I unbolt them? Did you see the photo? The flats are up against the face of the spacers...can't get a socket or even an open end on there, and if I could, how would the nuts turn? I must be missing something here.
How do I proceed on this mess?
Unbolt the spacers on both sides, get long wheel studs, replace your current short studs with long ones, get appropriate spacers for the long studs, mount your wheels, then sell the bolt on spacers on eBay ...
Andy
How do I unbolt them? Did you see the photo? The flats are up against the face of the spacers...can't get a socket or even an open end on there, and if I could, how would the nuts turn? I must be missing something here.
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 31 2009, 08:41 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 09:25 AM)
How do I proceed on this mess?
Unbolt the spacers on both sides, get long wheel studs, replace your current short studs with long ones, get appropriate spacers for the long studs, mount your wheels, then sell the bolt on spacers on eBay ...
AndyQUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 04:45 PM)
I must be missing something here.
Open end wrench in a 45 degree angle should give you enough bite to brake them loose ...
AndyPS: If not, it's time to dust off the good old hammer and chisel ...
He got them on there. It looks like it can be done with an open end wrench a 1/4 turn at a time. The hard part will be breaking them loose without busting a knuckle or stripping the nut. Damn PO's.
I did some searching on the internet. Looks like Eibach might be the best spacers for me? Didn't see that they come in any different widths. Is there only one width? Keep me learning guys...love you!
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 05:25 PM)
Didn't see that they come in any different widths.
They come in all different shapes and sizes. Metric or Imperial, in small increments.
Long wheel studs eliminate the need for bolt on spacers (like you have right now).
Andy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Space...sQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...sQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-21-...sQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-8mm-WH...sQ5fAccessories
And there's a thousand more on ebay right now. And all the usual parts outlets sell them.
And then there's your friendly Porsche dealer who sells them too ...
Andy
So, is there a reason to go with the ones that do not bolt on vs. those that do?
Since my left side seems fine, and that spacer is 1" (25.3mm) should I use that as my goal?
How do I determine what stud length, diameter, thread..., and how do I specify lug nuts to correctly fit my BBS RS wheels that match that thread?
Enough questions?
Didn't see that they come in any different widths.
They come in all different shapes and sizes. Metric or Imperial, in small increments.
Long wheel studs eliminate the need for bolt on spacers (like you have right now).
Andy
Since my left side seems fine, and that spacer is 1" (25.3mm) should I use that as my goal?
How do I determine what stud length, diameter, thread..., and how do I specify lug nuts to correctly fit my BBS RS wheels that match that thread?
Enough questions?
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 31 2009, 09:32 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 05:25 PM)
Didn't see that they come in any different widths.
They come in all different shapes and sizes. Metric or Imperial, in small increments.
Long wheel studs eliminate the need for bolt on spacers (like you have right now).
Andy
You could use those type of spacers on the street....but I'd NEVER use them to autocross or at the track such as DE's. I've heard of someone breaking those type on the track and the result wasn't pretty.
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 06:21 PM)
So, is there a reason to go with the ones that do not bolt on vs. those that do?
We DO have a search function here, you know ...
Andy
Hey Ken , from the pic of the 3/4 and 1/2 spacer it appears that the 1/2 in spacer was hammered on top of the 3/4 with the long studs sticking out/ take a cold chisel and see if you can maybe seperate them some , if so continue around the outside and eventually get it off there making you to be able to unbolt the 3/4 . If you booger them up I don't think you will be out much from the looks of them ( sorry they look like crap 
to me , and I'm a CSOB ) .
As far as the new suds and such in your future , figure out the offset of the wheels or use the backspace you measured earlier , this will give you an idea of the spacer thickness you may need , when you got your spacer thickness figured out
( 3/4 plus 1/2 equals about 1.25 inches ) you might can get by with a 1.00 inch thick spacer. If thats the case 73mm studs might be what you could replace the hub studs with and go with a spacer that doesn't require that it be bolted on , just slide it over the long studs making sure that you have enough threads extending beyond the nut. Steel nuts are realitively cheap and the center cap would cover them .
Or you can get a good set of quality bolt on spacers that will bolt to the hub , then bolt the wheel onto the spacer, = 2 sets of nuts per wheel just to run the wheel. The fellas are right about the ebay spacer thing , they are a bunch of them on there now , as well as steel plated nuts.
Any who you do have a valid problem that you should remedy before some serious street time much less any kind of track time.
Let us know what you find out about the spacer situation....
Jaxdream
to me , and I'm a CSOB ) . As far as the new suds and such in your future , figure out the offset of the wheels or use the backspace you measured earlier , this will give you an idea of the spacer thickness you may need , when you got your spacer thickness figured out
( 3/4 plus 1/2 equals about 1.25 inches ) you might can get by with a 1.00 inch thick spacer. If thats the case 73mm studs might be what you could replace the hub studs with and go with a spacer that doesn't require that it be bolted on , just slide it over the long studs making sure that you have enough threads extending beyond the nut. Steel nuts are realitively cheap and the center cap would cover them .
Or you can get a good set of quality bolt on spacers that will bolt to the hub , then bolt the wheel onto the spacer, = 2 sets of nuts per wheel just to run the wheel. The fellas are right about the ebay spacer thing , they are a bunch of them on there now , as well as steel plated nuts.
Any who you do have a valid problem that you should remedy before some serious street time much less any kind of track time.
Let us know what you find out about the spacer situation....
Jaxdream
Get a chisel and separate the two spacers and remove the outer one. Then you can get to the nuts holding on the other spacer.....
You may be right about that last spacer being hammered on...yer a genius. I'll try that, That would be about the only way he got it on, and those cut outs now make sense.
Another question...I always thought wheels needed to be hubcentric. Never used spacers before, so how come it doesn't seem like these spacers have to fit the hub or wheel? Seems to me the studs would be handling a much heavier load than they should have to since the wheel is merely sitting against the flat surface of a spacer.
Hey Ken , from the pic of the 3/4 and 1/2 spacer it appears that the 1/2 in spacer was hammered on top of the 3/4 with the long studs sticking out/ take a cold chisel and see if you can maybe seperate them some , if so continue around the outside and eventually get it off there making you to be able to unbolt the 3/4 . If you booger them up I don't think you will be out much from the looks of them ( sorry they look like crap to me , and I'm a CSOB ) .
As far as the new suds and such in your future , figure out the offset of the wheels or use the backspace you measured earlier , this will give you an idea of the spacer thickness you may need , when you got your spacer thickness figured out
( 3/4 plus 1/2 equals about 1.25 inches ) you might can get by with a 1.00 inch thick spacer. If thats the case 73mm studs might be what you could replace the hub studs with and go with a spacer that doesn't require that it be bolted on , just slide it over the long studs making sure that you have enough threads extending beyond the nut. Steel nuts are realitively cheap and the center cap would cover them .
Or you can get a good set of quality bolt on spacers that will bolt to the hub , then bolt the wheel onto the spacer, = 2 sets of nuts per wheel just to run the wheel. The fellas are right about the ebay spacer thing , they are a bunch of them on there now , as well as steel plated nuts.
Any who you do have a valid problem that you should remedy before some serious street time much less any kind of track time.
Let us know what you find out about the spacer situation....
Jaxdream
Another question...I always thought wheels needed to be hubcentric. Never used spacers before, so how come it doesn't seem like these spacers have to fit the hub or wheel? Seems to me the studs would be handling a much heavier load than they should have to since the wheel is merely sitting against the flat surface of a spacer.
QUOTE(jaxdream @ Sep 1 2009, 01:38 AM)
Hey Ken , from the pic of the 3/4 and 1/2 spacer it appears that the 1/2 in spacer was hammered on top of the 3/4 with the long studs sticking out/ take a cold chisel and see if you can maybe seperate them some , if so continue around the outside and eventually get it off there making you to be able to unbolt the 3/4 . If you booger them up I don't think you will be out much from the looks of them ( sorry they look like crap
to me , and I'm a CSOB ) . As far as the new suds and such in your future , figure out the offset of the wheels or use the backspace you measured earlier , this will give you an idea of the spacer thickness you may need , when you got your spacer thickness figured out
( 3/4 plus 1/2 equals about 1.25 inches ) you might can get by with a 1.00 inch thick spacer. If thats the case 73mm studs might be what you could replace the hub studs with and go with a spacer that doesn't require that it be bolted on , just slide it over the long studs making sure that you have enough threads extending beyond the nut. Steel nuts are realitively cheap and the center cap would cover them .
Or you can get a good set of quality bolt on spacers that will bolt to the hub , then bolt the wheel onto the spacer, = 2 sets of nuts per wheel just to run the wheel. The fellas are right about the ebay spacer thing , they are a bunch of them on there now , as well as steel plated nuts.
Any who you do have a valid problem that you should remedy before some serious street time much less any kind of track time.
Let us know what you find out about the spacer situation....
Jaxdream
Found my own answer...some are hub centric, others are lug centric. Wouldn't one prefer hubcentric spacers?
Hey...you're here to serve me "Sir Andy" (especially since I'm "King Ken"...no kidding, I'm King of the SOB www.semitesonbikes.com ) 
So, is there a reason to go with the ones that do not bolt on vs. those that do?
We DO have a search function here, you know ...
Andy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 31 2009, 11:50 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Aug 31 2009, 06:21 PM)
So, is there a reason to go with the ones that do not bolt on vs. those that do?
We DO have a search function here, you know ...
Andy
Here are two types that I'm using.....They work well. The one on the left I've had for years and the one on the right I got from Performance Products a few months ago.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
How does the one on the left even stay centered (chewing gum)...it's not even lug centric ?
Here are two types that I'm using.....They work well. The one on the left I've had for years and the one on the right I got from Performance Products a few months ago.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Sep 1 2009, 09:10 AM)
Here are two types that I'm using.....They work well. The one on the left I've had for years and the one on the right I got from Performance Products a few months ago.
Click to view attachment
When the wheel is tightened to 94 foot pounds, it is fine.
You were right...that last spacer was hammered on. Tried to pit the new spacers on today, but the others are on so tight I need to reassemble and head for a garage. My electric impact gun (224 ft/lbs ) won't budge the nuts.
Hey Ken , from the pic of the 3/4 and 1/2 spacer it appears that the 1/2 in spacer was hammered on top of the 3/4 with the long studs sticking out/ take a cold chisel and see if you can maybe seperate them some , if so continue around the outside and eventually get it off there making you to be able to unbolt the 3/4 . If you booger them up I don't think you will be out much from the looks of them ( sorry they look like crap to me , and I'm a CSOB ) .
As far as the new suds and such in your future , figure out the offset of the wheels or use the backspace you measured earlier , this will give you an idea of the spacer thickness you may need , when you got your spacer thickness figured out
( 3/4 plus 1/2 equals about 1.25 inches ) you might can get by with a 1.00 inch thick spacer. If thats the case 73mm studs might be what you could replace the hub studs with and go with a spacer that doesn't require that it be bolted on , just slide it over the long studs making sure that you have enough threads extending beyond the nut. Steel nuts are realitively cheap and the center cap would cover them .
Or you can get a good set of quality bolt on spacers that will bolt to the hub , then bolt the wheel onto the spacer, = 2 sets of nuts per wheel just to run the wheel. The fellas are right about the ebay spacer thing , they are a bunch of them on there now , as well as steel plated nuts.
Any who you do have a valid problem that you should remedy before some serious street time much less any kind of track time.
Let us know what you find out about the spacer situation....
Jaxdream
QUOTE(jaxdream @ Sep 1 2009, 01:38 AM)
Hey Ken , from the pic of the 3/4 and 1/2 spacer it appears that the 1/2 in spacer was hammered on top of the 3/4 with the long studs sticking out/ take a cold chisel and see if you can maybe seperate them some , if so continue around the outside and eventually get it off there making you to be able to unbolt the 3/4 . If you booger them up I don't think you will be out much from the looks of them ( sorry they look like crap
to me , and I'm a CSOB ) . As far as the new suds and such in your future , figure out the offset of the wheels or use the backspace you measured earlier , this will give you an idea of the spacer thickness you may need , when you got your spacer thickness figured out
( 3/4 plus 1/2 equals about 1.25 inches ) you might can get by with a 1.00 inch thick spacer. If thats the case 73mm studs might be what you could replace the hub studs with and go with a spacer that doesn't require that it be bolted on , just slide it over the long studs making sure that you have enough threads extending beyond the nut. Steel nuts are realitively cheap and the center cap would cover them .
Or you can get a good set of quality bolt on spacers that will bolt to the hub , then bolt the wheel onto the spacer, = 2 sets of nuts per wheel just to run the wheel. The fellas are right about the ebay spacer thing , they are a bunch of them on there now , as well as steel plated nuts.
Any who you do have a valid problem that you should remedy before some serious street time much less any kind of track time.
Let us know what you find out about the spacer situation....
Jaxdream
Had the local tire store remove the spacers. Put on the new 1" spacers and all is well with the world (and my wheels).
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