I have just bought an original one / two owner 1970 914-6 as a profit maker so I can afford an engine for my 87 911.

I was thinking of asking $6000 for it. But having seen a wrecked chassis only advertised at $5000, I'm thinking maybe my straight one, with interior, engine transmission, and all the other stuff is worth more

What is a reasonable price?
See here for more information and a few pics:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....103#post4869103

Please feel free to comment, I'll take no offense at any of them. I would love to keep the six, but three non running Porsche is taxing the limits of my wife's patience. If I can sell one for a profit, and ease the drain on the monthly budget that the 911 parts are sucking, then logic says it had better be the 914-6.

Thanks,
Richard

I posted on Pelican with links to my two 914-6 restorations.

Your car can be restored and should be, but I think you are better off letting somebody else that's crazy do it (like most of us on this board )

Without knowing a lot more about your car other than the pictures on Pelican and your discription, I think it is worth more than the $6K you mention - maybe in the $10K range. You might want to get someone from here to come take a look. They would know the problem areas - common to 4s & 6s. It looked like some rust happening behind the passenger door and that could spell expensive repairs to the longs.

Good Luck,
T.C.

Thanks T.C. I really appreciate the advice.
You nailed it on Pelican. I need to flip the 914-6 for profit. I have the sneaking suspicion 10 years from now I'm going to seriously regret selling it. But given where I am at economically, I gotta let it go.
Having said that I'm not going to get greedy about it. I'll take a fast profit over the maximum profit.

Who here wants to travel to Milwaukee to take a look at it?
What, no takers? Ok, I'm going to head up that way in the coming weeks to work on documenting and cleaning the 914-6. What do I need to look at and take pics of?

1)I assume first off I need to get the VIN number so it's originality can be verified.
2) I saw a chassis number mentioned where do I find that?
3) Hell hole. This is under the battery? remove the battery, check for rust?
4) photograph underside of body sills. Any other typical rusty spots to worry about?
5) Get the engine number off the fan shroud side on the case.

What else?

So I've got a working range of $6K to $10K as a sale price. What typically would effect the sale price up and down?
Where would it have to be priced to entice someone to come to Milwaukee to buy it given only what we know so far? (remember I haven't seen the car in person myself yet.)

Thanks,
Richard

Richard,

1) yes. get the VIN. to be a six it should start with 914.

2) I can't believe I'm so tired that I forgot something so simple.

3) Yes, Hell hole is under the battery. It is the corner where the firewall meets the structural tubing of the chassis. Follow gravity down from the battery, the trail the acid water would take and it will lead you right to the rust. (The 'hell hole', the jack points, the bottom of the firewall, the area under the backs of the seats) another common one is the bottom of the firewall where the floor meets the firewall. Follow the path the water takes as it leaks through the bottom of the back window, it will lead you to more rust.

4) see 3. =o) Just think "Where's the water going when it rains, or splashes up from the road?" that leads to rust. Suspension ear. Right where the inner trailing arm bolt attaches to the car.

5) yup. good thinking.

6) pictures pictures pictures.

7) another question to ask is "Where would the mice build a nest?" and "where are they getting the materials?" The answers are hopefully "outside" and "Home depot"; but that's not always the case.

this is a great question, in my case it was in the tunnel and led to a stuck throttle and wrecked 914-6.

Richard,

The chassis # is in the rear trunk, towards the rear of the trunk floor and in the middle.

If you want to get adventurous, pull the passenger rocker panel off. That and the Hell-Hole exam will tell you most of the rust story.

T.C.

In addition to the above, get all the paper work & history that you can.
Does it have a title?
What's the mileage on the odo?
When was it last registered? Many states like my own need that information, otherwise it becomes tangled in red tape and many years and $$$ to undo. Any potential owner needs to know the registration laws of their own state.
How long has the car been sitting without starting?
How old is the gas? Bad gas will ruin the engine and related components. I wouldn't attempt to start it until you get those answers. If you do attempt to start it, be sure you have more than one halon fire extinguisher close by. It's better to rotate the engine by hand. Pull all the spark plugs if you can without ruining the threads.
If it's been sitting a long time, the clutch may be sticking to the flywheel. Be careful if you turn the key on. It may still be in gear when you think it's in neutral.
Don't attempt to jack the car up at the jack points until you understand the structural integrity of the car.
Bonus features when you find an original owner car would be the window sticker or Bill of Sale to go with the car. The original complete tool kit sells on ebay for $800 or more. In your case it will add value to the car if it's there.
If it were me trying to unload for a quick profit, I would leave things as they are and just clean it up for photo's. Let the new owner deal with the restoration and mechanical issues. Whether the engine runs or not, chances are that it needs a rebuild anyway.
Good Luck,
Don

I've been hoping someone would suggest the "Leave the engine alone bit" I'm leaning towards that so that I don't potentially damage anything for the next owner. I know if I were going to restore it, that I would just pull the engine immediately so I could be sure to not damage anything. But I would have to find the buyer that is expecting that.

And on the bad gas bit, 5 years sitting is definitely bad gas. I figured I'd worry about an IV bottle of new gas to the carbs once I got the engine free. But that is all secondary to getting the paperwork straight, giving the car a good hand washing, and evaluating the rust situation.
Richard

Here's what the previous owner found as ID marks:
For the 914-6: Car Type: 914014 stamped in the body under the front boot on the passenger side front fender and on a plate further down and to the front near the front headlight on the same side.

Chassis Serial Number: 9140431457 stamped in the body under the front boot on the passenger side front fender and on a plate further down and towards the front near the front headlight on the same side

Engine Serial Number 6404929

Dealers Identification Number:406A02

What does all of this mean?

Thanks,
Richard

Hi Richard,

I am not too far from Milwaukee...I can get to downtown Milwaukee in about 45 minutes and would be glad to go have a look at it for you.

Do you know where it is in Milwaukee...or in one of the suburbs?

Feel free to email me with your plans:

Peter.Jenkins@comcast.net

Peter

These two bits of information indicate that your engine is at least in the range of those that would make it a "matching numbers" vehicle, which is very important as far as resale value goes. The only way to know for certain however is to order a COA from PCNA.

edit: the VIN is also correct for a model year 1970 914-6.

Seems like a good score to me!

Reid

These two bits of information indicate that your engine is at least in the range of those that would make it a "matching numbers" vehicle, which is very important as far as resale value goes. The only way to know for certain however is to order a COA from PCNA.

Seems like a good score to me!

Reid

What's the paint code? Look for Karmann tag on front-driver's door jamb.

Thanks for the offer Peter. The cars are 30 min west of Milwaukee, putting it 1.5 Hours from you. I'm not going to ask someone to go do that for me.

I'm just going to go up there this weekend and bring them home.

Richard

I won't know until Monday at the earliest. I suspect that it's original white color.
What would the paint color mean? Is one color more valuable than the others? Or is is just that an original color car is more valuable than a repainted one?

Thanks,
Richard

The Paint Code would tell you whether it was originally white or if it's had a color change.

If Peter is able to look at it with you, take advantage of him, he is an expert. He re-created a GT down to every detail

T.C.

Peter, I sent you an Email.
Richard

By 1PM CST tomorrow I'll be in front of my 914-6 and 1969 911 for the first time, and by Monday they will be snug in my Garage in KC.

I'm all excited, and I don't think that I'll be productive at work today as I keep making check lists in my head.

For good or bad, I'll know tomorrow if this was a money making deal, or a folly of time and effort just to break even.

Pics Pics Pics!!!
What should I take pics of?
Add to the list, what would you want if you were a potential buyer of the car?
1) every Vin number and Chassis sticker color lable, and chassis number plate I can find.
2) The Engine number off the fan shroud
3) the hell hole rust (Take the battery out)
4) underneath the car:
4A) door sills areas
4B) Suspension mounting points
4C) Floor pan area
4D) Underside of Engine and Tranny, focusing on the shifter type.
5) Detail shots of body damage, rust and dents
6) interior Dash , Guages, seats
7) Engine (Can I remove something on the rear trunk to expose the engine and trans form the top?)

Thanks!
Richard

Damn I'm late on this one. I'm a few miles from Milwaukee. I would have gladly looked at it for you. The problem with cars up here is they salt the roads. That spells disaster for 914's. I bought a 2.0 parts car that was nearly broke in half. If the longs are good buy a lotto ticket.

One long is good. Does that mean I should buy half a lotto ticket?

I'm hoping Peter will chime in with his unbiased analysis of the car. He certainly knew more about the car than I did, and where to look for cancer.

Here's a link to the new ad with price and a bunch of pics.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=99138

Thanks,
Richard