QUOTE(geniusanthony @ Dec 12 2010, 03:55 AM)
QUOTE(rhcb914 @ Dec 11 2010, 09:39 AM)
I use the original one for 1.7 D-Jet. I had the .009 and there was a major flat spot. With the D-jet acceleration is smooth, no hesitation. I set the timing at 30* advance and the engine runs great. No pinging even under heavey load up a hill.
I don't know why so many people think you have to change the dizzy when converting to carbs. Am I leaving a few HP on the table compared to the Mallory? Maybe, but it's still way better than the .009 and best of all it cost me nothing cause I had it on the shelf.
Is there a such thing as a requirement for different ignition curves and amounts of advance for different configurations of engine?
For example, say person X has a 1911 with a cam and IDFs at we'll say 8.5:1 compression;
Now I have a 1971 with a cam and IDFs at 9.3:1 compression;
Will the advance and curve requirements differ if both people want the most from their respective engine?
Further details of my engine if it helps
1971cc, OE Mahle 94s, stock rods, 9350 cam, 9.3:1 compression, reworked 42 x 36 1.8 heads w/ mild porting and 55cc chambers(if I remember right), 40 IDFs, Patrick header, 009 dizzy(flat spot and driveability problems)
So I did build this for more power and would rather not leave anything on the table as it were. I know there is alot here but I am sure some know more than me on this. Googling has turned up lots of choices, Some have mentioned SVDA also, Pertronix seems to have been at this for awhile, though I am unsure how long their Flamethrower has been around. Recently I have not read too much on this subject, not here not Shoptalk. I looked over at Tangerine, I guess the issue with Unilite has kinda been solved, something about a pin and spark scatter that gets replaced. Nothing real definitive however. Points have never left me stranded longer than a scrape of the points with a knife or file so I would of course like to get what I need, which is something that will run correctly without alot of trouble or fear of stranding.
Ditributor full advance on most of the aircooled motors would max out at 32 degrees, and with your higher than stock CR, I would not suggest you go ver 30 or you may experience pre-mature detonation/pinging.
When it comes on, and how fast is based upon your engine and more specifically your camshaft. That is the advance curve everyone refers to.
Its best to match that curve to the characteristics of your camshaft for really optimum tuning.
The best way to know is to have it on a dyno for tuning.
The simplest way would be to ask your camshaft provider what he suggests.
You got the cam from Jake, maybe he will chime in on the best distributor for you.
You can always send him an email on his site...and I suspect his forum has at least a whole thread on distributors or even a forum on ignition...its been a while since I have visited his site.
I would suggest that you call Chris Foley who sells that mallory unit and talk with him about your concerns. He has alot of experience with the distributor and can tell you about the reliability and potential gains of using that unit versus the stock Ljet distributor.
Any of the used distributors will have lateral play just due to age and bushings being worn out. Using the optical ignition unit to replace the points will give you better results on an old distributor and get rid of that wobble..or at least mask it from the ignitions.
Rich