Starting to look seriously for a 914. Found a couple locally, and a few online. Is there that much difference between models/years which would preclude me looking at a 72 1.7 versus hold out for a 73/74 2.0?

Market is really soft right now, so good time for a cash buyer. But do I search for a solid car which needs some cosmetics in the lower $3-4K range, a nice car with some updates in the mid $5 - 7K?

$7 - 10K would have to be a really well done driver, it seems, in need on only minor touches.

Car will be at elevation in Colorado.

(Not sure if this is the right place to post this). Mods, feel free to move to another section if you like.

What say the experts?

John

Big difference between 17 and 2.0... especially here at elevation. A 1.7 isn't bad at sea level (BTDT) but that same car here in the Denver area can't get out of it's own way on the highway.

As always, buy the nicest car you can afford. You'll be money ahead in the long run. Unless you want a project.

And moving to the garage...

Thanks for the advise Mike...
I just want to balance the acqisition cost a bit with market values and not be upside down from the git go.

Know of any good local cars that would save me the shipping costs? (Toughh spending 10 percent or more of the cars value to ship the darned thing).

Also, wouldn't mid a PM with your insight on the market right now.

Thank you John Feeney
3034757840

IMHO - 73-74 2.0 is best, & get the best which you can afford!

Also, if you're getting a driver & not a show car, they will drive some distance if you find a nice one out of your area! ...some have even been known to drive from CA to your area! ...biggest problem is finding someone qualified to check it for you away from your home base.

But even down here at sea level on the left coast, the performance difference between the 1.7 & 2L is marked, as my friends with 1.7s back in the day said after driving my 73 2L vs. their 70 & 72 1.7s!

The 74 2L will have similar performance to the 73, with minor engine/EFI mods., but not all came with the Appearance & Performance Groups' options, since they were all/most made "extra cost options" early in the 74 MY (although according to Steve Gaglione here, they may have started charging for them late in the 73 MY).

This was to offset their foreign exchange rate losses on the Deutsche Mark to Dollar, as the latter devalued in the early/mid 1970's. It's also why the 914 was so expensive here relative to its competitors from GB, Italy, Japan, etc.

Whereas, the 73 MY 2Ls will usually come "fully loaded" with the Appearance Group (chrome bumpers, for lights, dual horns, black vinyl covered roll bar, center console/gauges, hinged padded cover/center storage/seat, pile carpet, etc.) & Performance Group (F&R Sway Bars, & 5 {not 4} Fuchs 2L Lightweight Forged Alloy Wheels/incl. spare).

Well, at least that was the way Porsche marketed them in the initial year (see ad below), with all those 1.7 options "included" on the 2L to justify its $5k+ price! ...many did not get sold new that way by the dealers, and many more at this point won't due to modifications. Sometimes prior owners will have changed to other wheels which they thought "looked better" - but usually had less strength & weighed more than the Fuchs, or other more extensive "owner mods" over the years.

Also, the Porsche Dealers would very often "steal" the spare Fuchs wheels (or full set in my case ) to sell at a profit (see "OE wheels & tires" under Originality section for details & my value math on this) - replacing the spare with a steel wheel & the other 4 with cheaper alloys (4 Rivieras in my case), and sometimes take the fog lights &/or center console/gauges off to transplant to another 914 (usually a 1.7 lacking same) to make a buck at no cost (on mine both had been "stripped" ).

I went thru the same conundrum almost 35 years ago when looking to buy my early-73 MY 2L, versus the less expensive earlier 70-74 1.7s/1.8s & vs. a new 75-76 2L or 1.8. Unfortunately being fresh out of college & cash strapped, the new option was not feasible, plus I didn't want the watered down & less powerful 2L nor 1.8L, heavier with uglier bumpers (to my eyes) & gaudy plaid interiors at hugely inflated prices equal to a nice older used 911.

After a parade of various used 914 1.7s to be checked out by my German born & Porsche Factory trained on 914s mechanic, he checked out the 2L which I bought in Dec. 75, saying (add your own thick German accent):
"Dom, get dis vun, don't even mess vit dose udders! Dose 1.7s veren't vorth anyding unt ver wary veak running. Dis is da strongest running 2.0 dat I've seen. You'll be better off in de lonk run vit dis vun, efen if you have to pay more. Sure it's missing dose vancy veels, vog lights unt console - but just talk him down on de price unt get dem later!"

Good advice today as well! Check out the cars mechanically & all the usual rust spots, general condition, etc. - then have a trusted 914 mechanic or officinado in your area do a thorough check out on the ones which make your short list. I would say to also look for one where the original paint & interior colors have not been changed, & still has the OE engine & transaxle case numbers (esp. engine GA# if either), so you maintain its best value over the long run.

I stretched my budget up from $2500-3500 in the day, to buy my 73 2L at the $4500 I talked them down to from $4700-5000 asking, then ate lotsa PBJ & Mac-n-cheese for awhile until raises caught up with my payments! But I got 130k+ miles of enjoyment out of that car as my daily driver & only car from 12/75 - 5/85, & will again when I'm done repairing & restoring it after "holding down blocks" in my SoCal garage since 5/85. So get as much 914-2.0 as you can afford!

Here's a Dec. 1972 magazine ad for the then new "914S" - before Porsche made the USA affiliate drop the "S" & call it 914-2.0 - interestingly in GB & Australia they allowed them to call it "914SC" - although neither were ever badged as such on the cars (only "914 2.0").

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Hope this helps!

I can speak from experience that it is cheaper in the long run to buy a car that someone else has invested the time & money to get it right. I bought a 1.7 and have spent a lot to get it to a 2.0 level of performance. The hard part is determining who you trust to have "done it right." There is a lot that can go wrong that is not obvious. These cars have had a lot of years to potentially experience poor workmanship in repairs. Take your time in finding the right car.

A 1.7 is like sex...

its an arduous task that seems to go on and on and on, and just when you think you've gotten somewhere... nothing happens.

Just come to this weekends Red Rocks Classic....I will give you a ride in my 1.8...then get someone else give you a ride in a 2.0....that will make your mind up!

No matter what engine , appearence group , trim package you look at , ...at the top of the priority list find one that is the least rusted !!!! the engines , consoles , and such are far easier to install than cutting out rusted areas and replacing them correctly so as to have a 914 that dosen't fold up , sag , or flintmoble on you. If at all possible get the owner to remove the rocker panels to check for rust through, just about all of them will tell you "very little rust " , only to find out after the sell yeah right !!!!!! Good luck and don't give up as there are some real good deals to be had , you just got to look under them more than at them.

Jaxdream

I bought 2 73's. One a 2.0 and the other a 1.7. Big difference in performance. The 2.0 had more power and better handling due to the swaybars. Plus it had all the appearance group options. The only problem was that it was rusted up so bad it cracked in half. The 1.7 was rust free. Thats why I bought it. If you can find a rust free 1.7 jump on it. It's easy to add sway bars, chrome bumpers and a center console. Used 2.0 engines go for cheap. You can drive the heck out of the 1.7 while you build up a screamer engine or buy a Raby turnkey.

It's been said before but buy the best car you can afford. If the choice is between a 2.0 that needs work or a super clean 1.7, buy the 1.7. That way you can actually drive the car instead of it being on jackstands.

FOUND MINE.... Not cheap, but well worth it IMO. Took the advise of the experts and bought the best one I could find. 1973 2.0 Alaskan Blue. Engine completely rebuilt 10K ago. Exterior and interior restore many moons ago, but in excellent shape.

John

That looks fantastic!!

congrats..

That's one sweet lookin' ride! Well done!!

Bring it over this weekend You got my number.

I would be more interested in finding a car that was in the best shape rather than worry about engine size too much. You can swap engines/transmissions pretty easily. Fixing rust along with paint and bodywork is a lot more time, effort and probably $$$$$$$ too.

Well, that's what I did with my 1.7 and I am happy with it(replaced transmission with a late model side shifter and 2.0 engine) YMMV.

Great looking car John. Best of luck with it.

I'm a little late responding; but must agree with the selection of the best 2.0 you can find. I bought a '71 with a 1.7, and after several years wanted more power, so switched to a 2.0. It is so much more satisfying to drive on the street and the track. It just keeps up with today's traffic so much better.