Hi there my car is stranded in a lot fortunately in walking distance to my house.

Symptoms are that it seems to start and run fin when cold about 10-15 minutes. It will then stall and then I cannot start the car. It does not smell like it is flood (actually cannot smell any fuel) The last time this happened it sat over night and then it started with no problems.

I just changed the points although I do not think that was the problem I had never seen points that were not completely solid contact area the ones installed had a hole in the center so I replaced them.

Thanks,
Dan

Try checking all of your FI electrical component connections & clean with a small wire brush if any corrosion at all.

When I lived near the beach out here in CA, the salt air would get in & corrode inside the connections, relay/resistor plugs ins at the relay box on the L side of engine compartment & at the ECU, which would cause me most similar problems.

Also check fuel flow from pump if it runs then stalls.

It may be that the cold start valve is compensating in the cold start mode, then something else in the EFI system which is either got a bad connection or failing kicks in & stalls it.

Sounds a lot like extra air is getting in your plenum. It runs OK when cold because of the cold start injector but won't idle or start warm. It sounds odd, but is the accelerator stop plastic bolt still there?

make sure all the fuses and relays on the relay board in the drivers side engine bay are clean and making good contact. When it doesn't start can you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two when you turn the key? Listen carefully you should hear the pump when you turn the key to the on position just before you crank the engine. Check the elec connections at the fuel pump. If it is still loc at the rear under the car on the passenger side, consider relocating it to the front. Auto atlanta has a kit for this. I did it to my 73. you may be getting vapor lock but it sounds unlikely. Good luck, Joe

Dan...first off I am sorry to hear that you are having troubles....the fact that this happened before and then started the next morning sounds to me like a fuel filter, or fuel tank sock filter or fuel line restriction(kinked under tank). that is if the fuel pump itself is not suspected. If when you turn the key on you don't hear the pump run at all give the fuses on the relay board a spin then try again...it should run for a second or two each time you turn the key on from the off position....I wish I could be there to help.......Jerry

Thanks Guys, I think it may be the filter, the pump runs for a second or two when the key is set the run position. All contacts have been cleaned also have a new FI wiring harness and CHT in place. I will check the relay board again.

Had AAA tow the car last night so she is safely in the garage...

Will update you when I find the problem

BTW, Admin's can you you move this thread to the garage, I accidentally posted it here last night.

Regards,
Dan

Where can I get a fuel filter? Nothing local and Pelican listed a 75-76 filter as NLA?

Can I substitute an earlier Vanagon filter?
Thanks,
Dan

Dan...as long as the filter fits the two different hoses you can use it.The 75 -76 filter reproduction is available but isn't molded with the rib that fits the factory filter clip built in under the tank.... although it does have the 8mm and 12mm nipples on it for the two different sized hoses...................Jerry

Dan,
Sounds like you are having a similar problem to mine. I can start and run the car fine when it is cold. As soon as it gets warmed up, it doesn't want to start.
Advice I got here was most likely the fuel pump check valve or pressure regulator. Seems these FI systems need to be able to maintain pressure for 20 minutes or so after turn off. I haven't gotten around to getting a pressure gage to check this out yet. I really would like to narrow the problem down to either fuel or electrical first before I start removing things. Once you start removing things and replacing them you can compound the problem. Ie, did I get that reinstalled correctly and is it now causing more problems.
I have started to make a list of how I plan to attack this as soon as I get the time.
1- get the car warmed up and in it's " doesn't want to start mode".
2- determine if fuel is an issue- try spraying some starting fluid in the throttle body- if it starts, then there must be a fuel starvation issue.
3- if it doesn't start with the starting fluid, then check for spark- if there is spark, pull plugs and check them out.
4- if spark is ok and plugs are OK, then do compression test. Maybe after warm up the valves are getting a little tight, causing loss of compression.
5- if everything so far is OK, then start going through the fuel injection system hunting for some component that is failing when heated. I'm putting this off to last as I recently went through the fuel injection harness and repaired it.
Once the car starts when warm, it runs great. Kinda tells me the injection harness is OK. Might be one of the sensors tho'.
I'll post what I find after I find it.
Tom

quick update.

Thinking it was the fuel filter I replaced it. I have included some pictures for review, turns out that it was not the filter.

Intermittently the fuel pump was not running when the key was put in the run position. I check the voltage, none at the pump replaced the fuese on the relay board and it looked OK was having some difficulty getting a reading on 86/85 so I cleaned everything with CRC.

Car started no problem. Ran it for a while let it sit and it had a slight problem starting again but this time I think it is the battery even thought it started. The starter was cranking very slowly and would then catch. Reading about 11.84 volts without any load. I will recheck the battery but looks like a new one is in the future.

Heard many positive comments about the optima dry cell 34 R but then read the Captains remarks. What is the consensus?

Regards and thanks everyone for the support.

Dan

The other side of the filter

I had a similar experience today... Babydoll died and left me stranded by the side of the road. After she came home on a flatbed, I put the battery on a charger. My working theory is that this battery (of indeterminate age) is not providing enough power to run the fuel pump. I used to own a '75 BMW 530i (L-Jet) and when the battery was low, it wouldn't run because the alternator didn't generate enough power to keep the fuel pump going.

Looked as though I had two problems. (1) the fuel pump relay needed some cleaning put a little CRC and some light steel wool and car started.

(2) as I was starting the battery voltage was dropping below 10 volts. I recharged the battery and purchased a battery tender (the battery was sitting for over 2 months prior).

No problems to-date it has been a little more then a month and the car runs great. The battery is also in great shape the tender is always in the green.

Thank you all for your assistance.

Regards,
Dan